DID I SCREW UP?

Sampey5046

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So this is how it all went south! My a/c wasnt blowing cold so i decided to add a can of 134. The system took almost rhe whole can and the air was getting older and compressor was constantly running. As i look under the hood i see smoke coming from the starter solenoid so i hurry up and shut the car off. After observing evering, there was a melted wire going to the solenoid. I traced the 2 wires back to the altenator. The big pigtail for the alt never connected great so i replaced the pigtail with a pa performance, replaced rhe melted wires to the solenoid, went to crank the car wont fire. Ive got lights, blower motor, gauges, but no fuel pump. Changed the fp relay and nothing. I jumped the FP relay and i can get the pump to kick on but car still wont crank. All connections to solenoid are correct. Also new motorcraft solenoid. Any help would be appreciated. Coukd it be the eec relay went out? When i did get everything that together the first time and tried to crank it, the negative terminal sparked.
 

ford fanatic

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That sucks. I recently had an electrical issue where my computer was not firing injector #3. Took a while to track that down. ECUexchange got me fixed up though.

I'm currently battling a problem where I have no turn signals, it's always something lol.
 

Sampey5046

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I tried posting pics but its saying the file is to bog and im not treal familiar with the site yet. I think i pretty much got it narrowed down to a bad a9l or eec relay. I got the car to fire on starting fluid earlier
 

Sampey5046

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That sucks. I recently had an electrical issue where my computer was not firing injector #3. Took a while to track that down. ECUexchange got me fixed up though.

I'm currently battling a problem where I have no turn signals, it's always something lol.
I just watched a 4-5 part video on this exact problem on youtube. Your right... its always something!
 

big dad

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Sounds like you blew a fuselink. It did what it was supposed to do, protect the affected circuit it allows to supply power to. You must have a dead short in that circuit, start by disconnect the alt. to isolate the problem area.
 

Sampey5046

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Can you show us some photos of the burnt wires, and where they lead ? Might give us some information. Tough with foxbody because after so long they’re turned into someone’s idea of a race car.
I tried posting oics but says the files are to big
 

Sampey5046

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Sounds like you blew a fuselink. It did what it was supposed to do, protect the affected circuit it allows to supply power to. You must have a dead short in that circuit, start by disconnect the alt. to isolate the problem area.
What does disconnecting the alt do? Im not familiar whatsoever with electrical and this car is kicking my butt. The good thing is im slowly but surely learning. I can hear the eec relay clicking so that should be good, i can get the car to fire on starting fluid so the puter shoukd be good. Im gonna pick up a teat light tomorrow and check the fusible links. I hope your right cause im ready to get this problem solved. Thanks for the tip!
 

big dad

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Compared to newer cars this is "Jurassic Slap Ass", as far as technology goes, it's pretty basic .

Start by seeing if there is power at the alt. with a test light, if there is the problem is elsewhere. The fusible link will be soft or melted if it's burned out so check with a test light every inch or so. There is more than one fusible link on the starter solenoid so remove them to separate and check to isolate the affected circuit. You should have a EVTM manual that will show you what each link feeds. If all else fails, PM me and we can go from there.
 

Sampey5046

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Compared to newer cars this is "Jurassic Slap Ass", as far as technology goes, it's pretty basic .

Start by seeing if there is power at the alt. with a test light, if there is the problem is elsewhere. The fusible link will be soft or melted if it's burned out so check with a test light every inch or so. There is more than one fusible link on the starter solenoid so remove them to separate and check to isolate the affected circuit. You should have a EVTM manual that will show you what each link feeds. If all else fails, PM me and we can go from there.
Thanks man. Well im not sure but i may be on to something. With the key on, i used a test light and checked all the fusible link wires that run to the solenoid. I made sure i tested on each side of the fusible link. When doing this i got a bright light on every single one accept the 20ga fusible link for the ecc relay/computer power. This link is blue and yellow. The blue hooks to the solenoid, and the yellow is in the factory harness. When i stuck the test light in the blue wire the test light is real bright. When i stuck the yellow wire (harness) the test lights is very dim. Is this telling me the fusible link between the 2 is weak or blown?
 

OX1

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What year and what alternator. 2G alt wiring was suspect when it left the factory
(I'm assuming you have 2G, since you talked about dual wiring). Those would be the black and orange wires here (86 EFI alt wiring).

86%20CHARGING%20POWER.jpg



Here is typical EEC and starting circuit wiring. Looks like EEC grounds EEC relay to actuate it off pin 60. The other side of that, does run right back to the alt (and then a fusable link between it and ign switch).

Also, EEC power, pin 37 has another fusable link on input side of EEC relay that is supposed to be hot at all times.

I would start in and around the EEC power circuit and relay, you can usually "back feed" the EEC or relay harnesses to measure voltages without disconnecting anything.

Mustang-86-Mustang-ECC-EFI.gif
 

Sampey5046

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What year and what alternator. 2G alt wiring was suspect when it left the factory
(I'm assuming you have 2G, since you talked about dual wiring). Those would be the black and orange wires here (86 EFI alt wiring).

86%20CHARGING%20POWER.jpg



Here is typical EEC and starting circuit wiring. Looks like EEC grounds EEC relay to actuate it off pin 60. The other side of that, does run right back to the alt (and then a fusable link between it and ign switch).

Also, EEC power, pin 37 has another fusable link on input side of EEC relay that is supposed to be hot at all times.

I would start in and around the EEC power circuit and relay, you can usually "back feed" the EEC or relay harnesses to measure voltages without disconnecting anything.

Mustang-86-Mustang-ECC-EFI.gif
Thanks for the info! I e found the problem! The 20 ga fusible link to the solenoid is blown. Blue/yellow wire that powers the eec relay/computer. All i did was jump the fusible link with a 10 gauge wire and the fuel pump kicked on and the car fired right up! Once again thanks guys for al the info. Sometimes headaches are worth it.... you learn so much more working on them and getting info from everyone!
 

OX1

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Thanks for the info! I e found the problem! The 20 ga fusible link to the solenoid is blown. Blue/yellow wire that powers the eec relay/computer. All i did was jump the fusible link with a 10 gauge wire and the fuel pump kicked on and the car fired right up! Once again thanks guys for al the info. Sometimes headaches are worth it.... you learn so much more working on them and getting info from everyone!

Good deal!!!!!!!!
 

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