Deadhead Return + E85 - Is a Hobbs Switch Needed?

[GM2Ford]

I’m running a Fore Return System, 465 Dual Pump. I’m plumbing it to be Deadhead.

Is it necessary to run a Hobbs switch?
Is their anyone NOT running a Hobbs switch & running deadhead?

It seems that Fore Innovations has customers that have reported fuel being too hot. One of the concerns is that “both of the pumps running continuously will generate a lot of heat.” So that’s one reason why Fore recommends the “Honeywell Switch.”

But deadhead plumbing is supposed to solve the heating issue.

 

[SVTdreamin04]

I would be willing to venture you will be fine since you are going deadhead. My car had a ton of issues with fuel getting hot prior to going deadhead. The fuel would pick up most of the heat by running through the rails and the regulator in the engine bay. MalcolmV8 done some very extensive testing that proves returning after the fuel rails with the regulator in the engine bay causes heat soaked fuel.

Trust me when I say this. My car is 1000 percent better since I went deadhead return. I couldn't even drive 45 minutes without the pump starting to get loud. Then the car would run like crap and wreak of fumes.


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[MG0h3]

^^^. Correct. Not the pumps. It’s the engine heating the fuel.

A few here run constant with both pumps. I chose to do the Hobbs because the pumps draw like 14A each. I need to install my lean protection module and I plan to install an indicator light in one of my vents for the second pump.


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[KEVINS]

Why not use a hobbs switch anyway? I run three 340 pumps but two are activated at 7psi.
As mentioned above run the lines like the top picture and this will minimize the fuel soaking up engine heat.

ks

 

[04MystiCobra]

I run a pump module that triggers the second pump to come on at a certain MAF count. Dont need all that supply 99% of the time anyway. Same basic idea.

 

[MG0h3]

I run a pump module that triggers the second pump to come on at a certain MAF count. Dont need all that supply 99% of the time anyway. Same basic idea.

Malcolm’s unit?


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[04MystiCobra]

Yep.

 

[MG0h3]

Nice. Those are discontinued I believe.


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[Soap]

No Hoobs for me. Twin 465's running full time.

--Joe

 

[03' White Snake]

No Hoobs for me. Twin 465's running full time.

--Joe

Same here, dead head with zero issues.

 

[Comp04svt]

I'm also running 2 465's full time on a deadhead return setup. Haven't had any issues here either.

 

[SVTdreamin04]

I'm confident that these issues with boiling fuel and melted pumps are mostly related to running return after the rails. Running my pump at a slower speed prior to switching dead head made zero difference in keeping the fuel cool and the pump from getting hot, which all lead to fuel pressure dropping.

Dead head return has allowed me to run the pump full speed with zero issues.


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[lowflyn]

Twin 465's full time, traditional routing have never noticed an issue with the car.


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[GodStang]

Triple pumps, no hobbs switch, traditional routing, zero issues, 10 years.

 

[MTBSully]

I followed MalcomV8s fuel system almost to a T, f4i regulator in the passenger fender well, deadheaded to both rails, dual 465s in the tank and no hobbs switch, had zero issues.

 

[ctgreddy]

Another for no issues. I have dual 320e aem's tho. but ran it dead head for a while, then switched to traditional routing. 8 feed 6 return zero issues. At work we do a ton of fore systems and they're all atleast dual 465 setups, we dont install hobbs switches and all routings are traditional style.

IMO if you have twin 465's you really should have -8 feed and return, or -10 feed if you wanna go real overkill. I think a -6 return with twin 465's on all the time could cause excess heat.

 

[KBR]

Does this sound good????
After a month of research and asking advise(thanks Malcolm, 04Sleeper), I'm just about to pull the trigger on Fore L3 kit...way more than what I need, but should install nice, look good, and leave room for E85 if I ever want to run it.

• Fuel Rail Option:Black
• Primary Fuel Pump:TI Auto F90000267
• Secondary Fuel Pump(s):TI Auto F90000267
• Electrical Upgrade:FC3 Staged Controller with 4 gauge wiring
• Fuel LinesTFE -8 Feed / Return
• Filter Media:Stainless Steel
• Filter Bracket:Add billet mounting bracket
• Mechanical Gauge:0-100 psi Fuel Pressure Gauge
• Pressure Switch:Honeywell Pressure Switch for FC3
• Thread Sealant:Include 6mL tube of Loctite 567

Plan is to run a feed line to the rear of each rail from the regulator mounted in fender.
I may not do the Hobbs switch after seeing a few guys are not having issues running that way.

Build recap:
VMP 2.3 w/GT500 throttle body and 3.0 pulley/stock lower
80 pound injectors
JLT Ram Air
BA3000
EGR delete kit
Gord's HE
stock headers, Magnaflow o/r X w/cats and Magnaflow cat back

 

[Soap]

I would get the 274 pumps instead of the 267 pumps.

--Joe

 

[KBR]

I would get the 274 pumps instead of the 267 pumps.

--Joe

Hi Joe....they don’t list that pump in the drop down options, but do sell it in the pumps section....seems it’s the high pressure version.....not sure pros and cons of that....I have seen it mentioned somewhere in these threads....thanks


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[MG0h3]

Hi Joe....they don’t list that pump in the drop down options, but do sell it in the pumps section....seems it’s the high pressure version.....not sure pros and cons of that....I have seen it mentioned somewhere in these threads....thanks


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You aren't ordering from one of the two guys you mentioned?

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