Some mustangs of various years have a creaking/squeak when you turn the steering wheel.
There is a TSB that identifies and fixes this problem: # TSB 05-14-3
This TSB supposedly covers 2002-2004 Mustangs, but there was a previous one that covered 2000-2001 models with a same procedure and applies to all the models through these years and might also be a fix on all 96-04's.
If your car is out of warranty, you can pick these sleeves up from FORD at a price of $4.25 each. (you need 2 of them). I did this job last night on my GF's 04 Cobra (still under warranty) mainly since we did not want to hassle with some of Ford's incompetent techs and the long amount of time they had quoted us it would take by leaving her car with them all day...risks etc.
It's ALOT easier and much quicker if you have a drive-on ramp.
$20-25 at most autozone/pep-boys/kragen etc...or make your own.
Parts/tools:
E5DZ-3K620-A (Sleeves that you will be replacing the original ones with)
Prothane part # 6-703 (Polyurethane very stiff steering rack bushings) $14-15 bucks
18mm Deep socket
15mm Deep socket
Pliers
Flat head screw driver
Penetrating oil/WD-40/Liquid wrench/Silicone spray etc..
Drive stang onto ramp. Set parking brake. Also have a jackstand placed underneath somewhere strategic for additional safety.
1. Spray the long bolt and nut that is screwed onto it with some penetrating oil.
2. Unscrew the long bolt and remove it as shown. Rear (head of bolt) is a 15mm, front one is 18mm. Here is the nut, bolt and washer removed.
3. Remove the steering rack bushing as shown. (Flathead screw driver)
4. Use pliers to pry the damn thing out
5. Comparo..OLD sleeve versus NEW sleeve
**********************************************************
IMPORTANT:
If you're replacing the bushings with new URETHANE ones, you HAVE TO unbolt the steering wheel shaft where it bolts up to the rack and pinion.
It is a small 12mm or 13mm bolt that you have to remove first in order for the rack and pinion to move forward far enough to remove the bushings from the rear of the rack.
I suggest using some lock-tite (thread locker) on the screw's threads when you put that linkage back and bolt it up.
**********************************************************
6. Slide the new sleeve in
7. All the way in
8. Install Steering rack bushing..I put new stock ones in..or you could get aftermarket ones if you prefer..at about $15-20 for a set. Prothane part # 6-703
9. Slide bolt back into the sleeve from the rear as shown
10. Ready for the nut to complete the process..
11. Bolted up and done...
Onto the next one..
(I took both sleeves out at the same time and used the jack stand placed under the steering rack to give it some extra support and to angle the rack properly in the extrication of the sleeves)
Should take about an hour or less depending on lighting and what tools you have available. Power tools will turn this job into a 25-35 min job from start to finish.
There is a TSB that identifies and fixes this problem: # TSB 05-14-3
This TSB supposedly covers 2002-2004 Mustangs, but there was a previous one that covered 2000-2001 models with a same procedure and applies to all the models through these years and might also be a fix on all 96-04's.
If your car is out of warranty, you can pick these sleeves up from FORD at a price of $4.25 each. (you need 2 of them). I did this job last night on my GF's 04 Cobra (still under warranty) mainly since we did not want to hassle with some of Ford's incompetent techs and the long amount of time they had quoted us it would take by leaving her car with them all day...risks etc.
It's ALOT easier and much quicker if you have a drive-on ramp.
$20-25 at most autozone/pep-boys/kragen etc...or make your own.
Parts/tools:
E5DZ-3K620-A (Sleeves that you will be replacing the original ones with)
Prothane part # 6-703 (Polyurethane very stiff steering rack bushings) $14-15 bucks
18mm Deep socket
15mm Deep socket
Pliers
Flat head screw driver
Penetrating oil/WD-40/Liquid wrench/Silicone spray etc..
Drive stang onto ramp. Set parking brake. Also have a jackstand placed underneath somewhere strategic for additional safety.
1. Spray the long bolt and nut that is screwed onto it with some penetrating oil.
2. Unscrew the long bolt and remove it as shown. Rear (head of bolt) is a 15mm, front one is 18mm. Here is the nut, bolt and washer removed.
3. Remove the steering rack bushing as shown. (Flathead screw driver)
4. Use pliers to pry the damn thing out
5. Comparo..OLD sleeve versus NEW sleeve
**********************************************************
IMPORTANT:
If you're replacing the bushings with new URETHANE ones, you HAVE TO unbolt the steering wheel shaft where it bolts up to the rack and pinion.
It is a small 12mm or 13mm bolt that you have to remove first in order for the rack and pinion to move forward far enough to remove the bushings from the rear of the rack.
I suggest using some lock-tite (thread locker) on the screw's threads when you put that linkage back and bolt it up.
**********************************************************
6. Slide the new sleeve in
7. All the way in
8. Install Steering rack bushing..I put new stock ones in..or you could get aftermarket ones if you prefer..at about $15-20 for a set. Prothane part # 6-703
9. Slide bolt back into the sleeve from the rear as shown
10. Ready for the nut to complete the process..
11. Bolted up and done...
Onto the next one..
(I took both sleeves out at the same time and used the jack stand placed under the steering rack to give it some extra support and to angle the rack properly in the extrication of the sleeves)
Should take about an hour or less depending on lighting and what tools you have available. Power tools will turn this job into a 25-35 min job from start to finish.
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