Coyote Swapped 3V

BMR Tech 2

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Sep 3, 2015
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Tampa, FL
Running great! Tune is still being ironed out, but it screams. Just a few little drivability things to finish up and it will be done. Evap is done, Check Fuel Cap light was fixed by installing a base cluster, reverse lights still need to be done, but aside from that, it's finished. I may tweak a couple things here and there because I'm kind of picky, but for the most part I'm just going to drive it.
 

BMR Tech 2

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Sep 3, 2015
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Tampa, FL
I finished up all the little odds and ends over the last few months and I've been daily driving the car since I finished the swap. So far so good, I haven't run into any issues in the 5K+ plus miles I've put on it. This weekend I swapped over to an electric rack from a 2014 Mustang. The harness required to power the rack is an amazing thing to have for anyone looking to Coyote swap a car. It comes with the starter wiring, all the O2 sensors, EPAS stuff, alternator, and manual trans plugs. All for about $140! Boss 302 alternator kit is an awesome deal too. $225 for a Boss alternator, new idler, tensioner, belt, and the necessary hardware to install the alt. The rack is working flawlessly and I'm really happy with that swap.

CR3Z-14300-EA
M-8600-M50BALT


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AnotherS197GT

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Apr 9, 2014
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Just thought I would post an update here. Since the last time I posed here I've been doing some small stuff here and there, cleaning up wiring and such from the swap. I've spent hours combing through wires, rerouting them, re-looming them, and re-wrapping them. The AC was changed up, instead of using the relay system, I wired in a 11+ AC pressure transducer and the computer is controlling everything now. I do have a little left to go, but for the most part I'm done with the wiring.

The engine got some love as well. The truck intake cams and oil pump were exchanged for Mustang cams and oil pump, so now I'm revving it to 7200+ RPM. The PCM got touched up with a Flex Fuel tune from Lund. I couldn't believe how much the tune woke the car up compared to the control pack tune I had before and I was REALLY surprised to see how much power the car picked up with the Mustang intake cams. I really didn't think it would be that noticeable.

Overall, I'm very happy with how everything has turned out. I've got a few small wiring things left that I'd like to do. I have an MT82 sitting in my garage along with an MGW Race Spec waiting to go in when I have time.

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BMR Tech 2

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The MT82 went in this weekend and wow, what a difference! The MT82/MGW combo is so much smoother, faster, and easier to shift than my 3650 ever was. I can actually hit gears without grinding or getting locked out.
 

Stang Lover

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The MT82 went in this weekend and wow, what a difference! The MT82/MGW combo is so much smoother, faster, and easier to shift than my 3650 ever was. I can actually hit gears without grinding or getting locked out.

Did you document this in the process?
 

BMR Tech 2

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Sep 3, 2015
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No. I might throw some pictures up later, but it was pretty much like swapping a clutch. Take the old trans out, put the new one in. Pretty much everything plugged right in since I was using an MT82 harness already. Just had to re-pin a wire for the speed sensor and wire the MT82 reverse light switch into my current reverse light stuff.
 

warlockgs

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Oct 18, 2010
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Redmond, WA
Some hopefully easy questions: Does TCS work, does ABS work, do the airbags function? Considering going this route, was just wondering if the car ends up driving/functioning the same afterwards.
 

matt5058

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Jul 9, 2014
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VA
I just came across this thread while browsing around. Any updates? This is an awesome build.
 

AnotherS197GT

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Dearborn, MI
I recently got the Cruise Control functioning:

There are several things the Coyote PCM looks for when engaging the cruise control. There are two switches inside the Coyote brake pedal switch that trigger two PIDs, BOO1 and BOO2. Both must be off for the CC to activate. It also looks for clutch pedal position. For BOO1, I just have pin 13 on the body harness feeding input from the cruise deactivator on the brake pedal. Because this wire also feeds the ABS module, I ended up clipping the wire that feeds the ABS/PCM and wiring it to a relay. The wire leading to the ABS module is on the 87 terminal so that it will function like stock, and my second wire that will deactivate the cruise is on 87a on the relay. This allows the brake pedal to send the right information to the ABS module and the right info to the PCM, even though they require opposite signals.

For BOO2, I have pin 39 (3V, white wire, speed control deactivator) pinned into pin 46 on the Coyote PCM. This lets the system see that BOO2 is off when the clutch is up, and on when the clutch is depressed. This also lets me shut the cruise off with the clutch pedal. The only "problem" I have is that sometimes the security light blinks at me when using the set buttons for the CC.

I don't use the CC frequently, but I do take a few long trips every year. It will be nice to have the CC working again for those. It gets tiring holding the accelerator for 1200+ miles!
 

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