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Open Track Racing
Cooling problems while open tracking 03 Mach 1
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<blockquote data-quote="chronomitch" data-source="post: 15763100" data-attributes="member: 165336"><p>Thanks for the suggestions. I actually did experiment with boxing in the radiator at one point. When I originally put in the aluminum panel on the underside of radiator, I also put panels on the side of the radiator going forward to the A2A intercooler. I then attached some angled panels to the front of the A2A intercooler to try to direct air through it and, in turn, the radiator. That's also when I cut out some of the lower bumper cover for more air flow. It wasn't fully boxed in, as I wasn't sure what to do about the upper part of the radiator and how to connect it to the headlight support bracket.</p><p></p><p>Unfortunately, this didn't seem to help much. When I went to remove the stock bumper and replace it with a tubular bar, I accidentally broke off one of the angled panels attached to the A2A intercooler. So, I decided to remove the other angled panel as well and just leave the lower aluminum panel.</p><p></p><p>As far as the thermostat is concerned, I just don't see the point, so I don't run one in my modified coolant loop. The only time the thermostat would be closed is when it's < 170 or 180 (depending on the thermostat), which only happens during initial warm up and when cruising on the highway for 20+ minutes. Anytime else, the temperature is above that, so the thermostat is open. Obviously, when I'm pushing it hard, the temperature is always above that threshold and the thermostat is always open, so I just ended up removing it. I have often heard the argument about using a thermostat to slow coolant flow and keep it in the radiator longer, but this is a moot point when the thermostat would always be open when it matters.</p><p></p><p>The direction I'm leaning at this point is installing a proper oil cooler. If I had to guess (I don't have an oil temp sensor), the oil temp when running hard is probably 20-30 F hotter than the coolant temp and is probably contributing to the high coolant temp due to the crappy OEM oil -> water cooler. I think down-shifting and running at a higher RPM like I like to do leads to... more friction in the heads -> higher oil temps -> higher coolant temps.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="chronomitch, post: 15763100, member: 165336"] Thanks for the suggestions. I actually did experiment with boxing in the radiator at one point. When I originally put in the aluminum panel on the underside of radiator, I also put panels on the side of the radiator going forward to the A2A intercooler. I then attached some angled panels to the front of the A2A intercooler to try to direct air through it and, in turn, the radiator. That's also when I cut out some of the lower bumper cover for more air flow. It wasn't fully boxed in, as I wasn't sure what to do about the upper part of the radiator and how to connect it to the headlight support bracket. Unfortunately, this didn't seem to help much. When I went to remove the stock bumper and replace it with a tubular bar, I accidentally broke off one of the angled panels attached to the A2A intercooler. So, I decided to remove the other angled panel as well and just leave the lower aluminum panel. As far as the thermostat is concerned, I just don't see the point, so I don't run one in my modified coolant loop. The only time the thermostat would be closed is when it's < 170 or 180 (depending on the thermostat), which only happens during initial warm up and when cruising on the highway for 20+ minutes. Anytime else, the temperature is above that, so the thermostat is open. Obviously, when I'm pushing it hard, the temperature is always above that threshold and the thermostat is always open, so I just ended up removing it. I have often heard the argument about using a thermostat to slow coolant flow and keep it in the radiator longer, but this is a moot point when the thermostat would always be open when it matters. The direction I'm leaning at this point is installing a proper oil cooler. If I had to guess (I don't have an oil temp sensor), the oil temp when running hard is probably 20-30 F hotter than the coolant temp and is probably contributing to the high coolant temp due to the crappy OEM oil -> water cooler. I think down-shifting and running at a higher RPM like I like to do leads to... more friction in the heads -> higher oil temps -> higher coolant temps. [/QUOTE]
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Cooling problems while open tracking 03 Mach 1
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