Coolent cross over tube

2002BOSS

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Hey, just wondering if anyone has modded the cooling system..

I dont have a Termi to start off with so I have to build everything from scratch. To mate the aluminator to the GT.

I m going to be running a remote mount filter and oil cooler. I d like to run both sides of the cross over tube together into a T block, into a thermostate and stright into the rad then the bottom tube stright into the block.

Does there seem to be any issues with that?

Also does anyone have any pics of the accersory belt with out the pulley bridge in the way?


Thanks Jim
 

Jimmysidecarr

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The Evans T-sat relocate puts their stat in the upper hose and blocks the bypass in the crossover tube. Their stat has a bypass outlet that would then run down to be combined into the fabbed streamlined inlet.

So YES if you have fab skills this is a desirable mod. If you can't get an Evans stat or the Range Rover equivalent then relocate a t-stat to an upper fabbed housing but don't eliminate the bypass, be aware that some aftermarket stats with off size bypass block off plates do not effectively stop the hot water from mixing in with the cool water during fully warmed open stat operation.

Using an air to oil, oil cooler significantly streamlines and facilitates the coolant inlet flow, while at the same time no longer loads oil BTUs into the incoming coolant.
:thumbsup:
 
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Brutal Metal

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Some retailers prices on Coolant Crossover Tubes are Plain and Simple Highway Robbery!!
Vortech being one of them $417 if you want to buy it separate from their 99-01 Supercharger Kit. I did manage to find a new Procharger one which is identical on Ebay for $179 which is still a lot for less than $10 of aluminum!
Good luck on getting yours buttoned up!
 

2002BOSS

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Ok, first of all thanks for the reply..

I m tyring to button it up but my CNC is down so I had to do everything manually..

Heres what I ve got going on so far lol. And keep in mind I m still waiting on all my new pulleys, tensioners and Proper Lines but here goes lol.. I ve adapted all the GT parts to the Termi motor and rid my self of the stupid pulley bridge I just need to do the finishing work on the plate and install the new pulleys.

This is the motor


HPIM3330.jpg




Instead of the coolent cross over tube I made adapters with oil rings to AN -12 fittings. I built an extra one for the rear frost plug in the driver head.

HPIM3334.jpg


HPIM3331.jpg


HPIM3332.jpg


HPIM3333.jpg


HPIM3335.jpg




Now, I plan on building a billet housing with the 2-12's into the rear of the housing, then a thermostat and stright into the upper rad hose... Now for the rear head line, should it also go in before the thermostate into the upper rad hose or after?

And for the bottom inlet (coolent and Oil) I ll be making an adapter to have 2 lines stright out into a remote filter and cooler. The coolent will also go stright in..

DO I need to run a bypass? Everything soo far soo good?

Like I said I m building from nothing.. Its going into my GT next week so I m kinda going off what makes sense.. And at 2 months stright of 7days a week 14-20 hours a day I m loosing it lol

Thanks Again Jim
 

2002BOSS

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Cool Nice Job I've never seen anyone run the coolant lines on a 4V like that before

I hope thats not a bad thing lol..

Does it all look like it will work well? If the by-pass is just to open the thermostate the I would think it is no longer needed once I've relocated it.


Thanks Jim
 

TwinTurbo4vGT

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