Coolant splash..

[Black02GT]

Damn, sad story indeed! R.I.P

Yeah I give up, I’m pulling the motor when I have the funds.

In the meantime I will install the Moroso tank and do a coolant flush and test. I’m sure there’s no point of doing so but tank, coolant and coolant flush already purchased ;(


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Try everything, I did. No hurt beside petty cash. My imho. Result sucked but w.e. you may have better results.

 

[Roush6018]

you did try to diagnose this car correctly before tearing it apart. to replace the headgasket's isn't too hard of a job in general. however, the cylinder heads are very hard to work on and need special machines to work on them. i don't think your block will have any damage because you didn't break a piston or rod and the iron block surface is very strong. taking the cam chains off and taking the 4 cams out is probably the hardest part.

it is true the rad cap could have failed and lost the coolant, but when you describe the problem happening when you are making a pull under (high) boost that is a bad sign.

i am also not sure what those pressure readings on your tester are showing, but i did notice the needle is pointing to "caution" and i would guess that is the evidence of a failure you needed to determine that the head gasket failed.

so now the heads will need to come off and be inspected, new head gaskets and head bolts, new radiator hoses , oil change and new spark plugs, and you are right back on the road!!!!! timing cover gasket, valve cover gasket, lower manifold to head gasket, oil cooler gaskets are all reusable if they are not damaged. you will need a new supercharger base gasket too, its the metal one.

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

im assuming you pumped it up that high testing it and its not what the car generated like idling or something right?

 

[SVT_S5]

im assuming you pumped it up that high testing it and its not what the car generated like idling or something right?

Correct.

Pumped 16-17 psi when cold, car generated 5-7 psi as getting warmed up on top of the 16-17.




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[SVT_S5]

you did try to diagnose this car correctly before tearing it apart. to replace the headgasket's isn't too hard of a job in general. however, the cylinder heads are very hard to work on and need special machines to work on them. i don't think your block will have any damage because you didn't break a piston or rod and the iron block surface is very strong. taking the cam chains off and taking the 4 cams out is probably the hardest part.

it is true the rad cap could have failed and lost the coolant, but when you describe the problem happening when you are making a pull under (high) boost that is a bad sign.

i am also not sure what those pressure readings on your tester are showing, but i did notice the needle is pointing to "caution" and i would guess that is the evidence of a failure you needed to determine that the head gasket failed.

so now the heads will need to come off and be inspected, new head gaskets and head bolts, new radiator hoses , oil change and new spark plugs, and you are right back on the road!!!!! timing cover gasket, valve cover gasket, lower manifold to head gasket, oil cooler gaskets are all reusable if they are not damaged. you will need a new supercharger base gasket too, its the metal one.

Talked to my Audi engine builder, he said it “COULD” be a hg even if there was no overheating, white smoke etc.. a small crack would never cause the above symptoms but it would eventually occur.

I showed him the coolant test kit results photos and he said and I quote:

“When coolant heats up, it expands, causing the pressure to build up. The cap is the only place where this pressure can escape, so maybe the extra 7 psi you had there was because the OEM cap was never installed during the test; pressure had nowhere to go”

Oh, I also tested 2 OEM caps and 1 brand new Motrad cap: 9, 7 and 11 PSI respectively.

Bought an aftermarket aluminum cap and it’s holding 20 PSI with no sweat.


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[SVT_S5]

Took too long to update, sorry!

So I have drained the coolant from block drain plug, thermostat elbow and radiator plug and found some interesting stuff!

Coolant puke could be easily seen all over engine bay:

Blackish/Brownish soot/mud inside coolant reservoir. Replaced with aluminum tank:

Metal flakes with god knows what on radiator drain plug:

Old coolant drained:

Drained coolant in containers and found this:

Fresh coolant in, burped cooling system. Also added 7 fresh quarts of Amsoil with a brand new filter. Will do a couple of wot pulls and report back.

Oh, what brand/make you guys recommend for a compression gauge?! I checked eBay and don’t want the Chinese ones.

Thanks!


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[DSG2003Mach1]

I missed the older update - maybe I don’t understand physics but don’t think the car should make 21psi in the tank even if you had pumped to 15 already. The cooling system should NOT have to vent pressure from that cap under normal operating conditions

Your drain plug was replaced with a sacrificial anode - it’s meant for that to decay and be eaten away vs the inside of the radiator etc. I’ve never run one for long but my guess is most of that is the anode decaying which is what you want vs damaging the rest of the system.

 

[SVT_S5]

I missed the older update - maybe I don’t understand physics but don’t think the car should make 21psi in the tank even if you had pumped to 15 already. The cooling system should NOT have to vent pressure from that cap under normal operating conditions

Your drain plug was replaced with a sacrificial anode - it’s meant for that to decay and be eaten away vs the inside of the radiator etc. I’ve never run one for long but my guess is most of that is the anode decaying which is what you want vs damaging the rest of the system.

Thanks for the info, DSG!

I will see if it would build up pressure again later on.

I set my mind on changing the hg anyway so it’s a matter of testing things so far!

Will do cams and injectors also while engine is down in the near future


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[DSG2003Mach1]

if youre gonna dig into the motor, might wanna look into head studs, have the heads gone through (check block and heads are straight, sealing surface RA is good, valve seals and seats). Might also be a good time to look at intercooler upgrades to keep post blower temps down (or at least make sure your tune pulls timing AGRESSIVELY when IAT2 gets high). Seems a lot of head gasket failures go back to over heating or detonation.

2V mod motors are less forgiving it seems but Im 100% I lost a HG in my lightning from detonation when IAT2 got high and I stayed in it

 

[SVT_S5]

if youre gonna dig into the motor, might wanna look into head studs, have the heads gone through (check block and heads are straight, sealing surface RA is good, valve seals and seats). Might also be a good time to look at intercooler upgrades to keep post blower temps down (or at least make sure your tune pulls timing AGRESSIVELY when IAT2 gets high). Seems a lot of head gasket failures go back to over heating or detonation.

2V mod motors are less forgiving it seems but Im 100% I lost a HG in my lightning from detonation when IAT2 got high and I stayed in it

A complete overhaul, noted. Yeah I forgot the studs too!


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