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2012-2013 Boss 302 Mustang
Complete 2013 Boss 302 audio system upgrade
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<blockquote data-quote="ace72ace" data-source="post: 14101793" data-attributes="member: 138112"><p>Spent the last few days finishing up the speaker install in the doors. It's kind of funky in that the combination of the component speakers plus the 8 inch woofers require each speaker to be installed in 3 separate locations, door panel, door, & A pillar trim piece.</p><p></p><p>So the existing speaker wire that had powered the old 6x8s will now drive the woofers, and I needed to run an additional wire to the crossover for the Infinity components. Put Velcro on the door panels, mounted the crossovers, routed all the wires, and mounted the 6.5" driver in the factory bracket to the door panel. </p><p></p><p>Unfortunately, some of the plastic tabs that go into the square hole had broken off during previous remove and reinstall, so just trying to secure the speaker to the door would fail because the screw would not have the other side of the plastic tab to expand against the hole. If you've seen what the factory bracket looks like you would know what I mean. But a few tie wraps did the trick for the Infinity woofers. </p><p></p><p>The mounting hardware behind the A pillar trim panel tweeters require the door panel to be installed as one hole is in the door, an the lower one is actually part of the door panel. After the test fit of the panel on the door to verify clearance of the crossover and new wiring, it's time to reconnect the door pull cable. Ford did a good job with an easy to install design, where the cable end bullet drops into the assembly and the green plastic behind it easily fits into the assembly collar.</p><p></p><p>The door panel is secured to the door by 2 sets of fasteners. 2 torx flat head bolts, one behind the door pull handle trim piece, and one behind the armrest trim panel. Each pop off with a flat blade screw driver. 7mm perimeter bolts, 2 ea on either side and 3 down the bottom. You can see the white plastic female parts in this shot of the door;</p><p></p><p><a href="https://flic.kr/p/ndzkDV" target="_blank"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7012/13925794891_0cc7316ca1_b.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p></p><p>The trick to reattaching the door panel is to position the panel slightly to the outer edge of each door so that you clear those big while plastic posts that provide the screw hole for the 2 outer door panel screws. There are raised sections of molded plastic on the under side of the panel, that are meant to align with the white posts. So if you align the panel for re-installation, and just drop it straight down, these raised bumps behind the panel will hit those white posts and hang up on top of them, and not align. Once you have the outer edges that clear the raised white posts, loosely install both torx bolts, allowing you wiggle room to position the remaining bolts. Once they are all centered in their respective holes, tighten up the torx bolts and the remaining 7mm bolts. Dont' forget to position the wiring harness cables on each side to reconnect to the power window and door lock switches.</p><p></p><p>For this install I re-positioned the drivers power mirror switch to the arm rest trim panel. You can loosen the connector from the harness by cutting the electrical tape, but there are 2 wires that you must lengthen by about 30". Once I had spliced in and soldered the added section, I tested the switch operation, then taped it all up. After I finish testing all connections and fine tuning the sound, I may or may not re-install the the plastic vapor barrier.</p><p></p><p><a href="https://flic.kr/p/n1FuNi" target="_blank"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3800/13791198373_de8cd1e82b_b.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p></p><p>Here you can see a better view of those pesky out screw posts that make the door panel re-install tricky.</p><p></p><p> Before;</p><p></p><p><a href="https://flic.kr/p/n1FtR8" target="_blank"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7022/13791195173_fd9b0d546f_b.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p></p><p>After;</p><p></p><p><a href="https://flic.kr/p/nd1BAS" target="_blank"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2925/13919409842_faab9855b7_b.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p><a href="https://flic.kr/p/nf42Mz" target="_blank"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2911/13942514415_3df05172dc_b.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p></p><p>Yes, I can see the extra piece of GTMAT poking out from under the panel, I may put a piece of reflective tape on there, or remove it later.</p><p></p><p><a href="https://flic.kr/p/ndDkvF" target="_blank"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3672/13926574861_6995ed782a_b.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p><a href="https://flic.kr/p/nf4jPi" target="_blank"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3759/13942571703_f7526e407b_b.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p></p><p>Glove box still removed as I have yet to splice in the blue sync wire for the Maestro module.</p><p></p><p>I'm pleased with the finished result, it has the factory look I wanted to maintain. It will look a lot better once I clean it up and put some 303 protectant on it. Man the flash makes the panel look like crap, kinda like your own face under florescent lighting... :fear:</p><p></p><p><a href="https://flic.kr/p/nd1xJ2" target="_blank"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3829/13919396801_abfb299ed3_b.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p><a href="https://flic.kr/p/nd1BL1" target="_blank"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7310/13919410372_c5d236e15a_b.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p></p><p>Today I will button up the hardware, and then run all the speaker wire under the dash, then through the center console then into the trunk. I was going to reuse the existing RCA jacks, but I have a matched set of nice monoprice 15' cables, so I'll yank the old ones out and install the new set. Then I can get the head unit in, and make the final connections and begin testing for proper phase and polarity for all the speakers. Then the final step will be to remove the trunk trim near the tail lights to fit the massive Cerwin Vega daul 12" subwoofer box. I can fit the box in so it lays flat with the drivers pointing up, but I think if I remove the trim panels, I will have enough clearance to rotate the box so the drivers are facing forward.</p><p></p><p><a href="https://flic.kr/p/n1EYTZ" target="_blank"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3697/13791097783_4e31ab7b99_b.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ace72ace, post: 14101793, member: 138112"] Spent the last few days finishing up the speaker install in the doors. It's kind of funky in that the combination of the component speakers plus the 8 inch woofers require each speaker to be installed in 3 separate locations, door panel, door, & A pillar trim piece. So the existing speaker wire that had powered the old 6x8s will now drive the woofers, and I needed to run an additional wire to the crossover for the Infinity components. Put Velcro on the door panels, mounted the crossovers, routed all the wires, and mounted the 6.5" driver in the factory bracket to the door panel. Unfortunately, some of the plastic tabs that go into the square hole had broken off during previous remove and reinstall, so just trying to secure the speaker to the door would fail because the screw would not have the other side of the plastic tab to expand against the hole. If you've seen what the factory bracket looks like you would know what I mean. But a few tie wraps did the trick for the Infinity woofers. The mounting hardware behind the A pillar trim panel tweeters require the door panel to be installed as one hole is in the door, an the lower one is actually part of the door panel. After the test fit of the panel on the door to verify clearance of the crossover and new wiring, it's time to reconnect the door pull cable. Ford did a good job with an easy to install design, where the cable end bullet drops into the assembly and the green plastic behind it easily fits into the assembly collar. The door panel is secured to the door by 2 sets of fasteners. 2 torx flat head bolts, one behind the door pull handle trim piece, and one behind the armrest trim panel. Each pop off with a flat blade screw driver. 7mm perimeter bolts, 2 ea on either side and 3 down the bottom. You can see the white plastic female parts in this shot of the door; [url=https://flic.kr/p/ndzkDV][img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7012/13925794891_0cc7316ca1_b.jpg[/img][/url] The trick to reattaching the door panel is to position the panel slightly to the outer edge of each door so that you clear those big while plastic posts that provide the screw hole for the 2 outer door panel screws. There are raised sections of molded plastic on the under side of the panel, that are meant to align with the white posts. So if you align the panel for re-installation, and just drop it straight down, these raised bumps behind the panel will hit those white posts and hang up on top of them, and not align. Once you have the outer edges that clear the raised white posts, loosely install both torx bolts, allowing you wiggle room to position the remaining bolts. Once they are all centered in their respective holes, tighten up the torx bolts and the remaining 7mm bolts. Dont' forget to position the wiring harness cables on each side to reconnect to the power window and door lock switches. For this install I re-positioned the drivers power mirror switch to the arm rest trim panel. You can loosen the connector from the harness by cutting the electrical tape, but there are 2 wires that you must lengthen by about 30". Once I had spliced in and soldered the added section, I tested the switch operation, then taped it all up. After I finish testing all connections and fine tuning the sound, I may or may not re-install the the plastic vapor barrier. [url=https://flic.kr/p/n1FuNi][img]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3800/13791198373_de8cd1e82b_b.jpg[/img][/url] Here you can see a better view of those pesky out screw posts that make the door panel re-install tricky. Before; [url=https://flic.kr/p/n1FtR8][img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7022/13791195173_fd9b0d546f_b.jpg[/img][/url] After; [url=https://flic.kr/p/nd1BAS][img]https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2925/13919409842_faab9855b7_b.jpg[/img][/url] [url=https://flic.kr/p/nf42Mz][img]https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2911/13942514415_3df05172dc_b.jpg[/img][/url] Yes, I can see the extra piece of GTMAT poking out from under the panel, I may put a piece of reflective tape on there, or remove it later. [url=https://flic.kr/p/ndDkvF][img]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3672/13926574861_6995ed782a_b.jpg[/img][/url] [url=https://flic.kr/p/nf4jPi][img]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3759/13942571703_f7526e407b_b.jpg[/img][/url] Glove box still removed as I have yet to splice in the blue sync wire for the Maestro module. I'm pleased with the finished result, it has the factory look I wanted to maintain. It will look a lot better once I clean it up and put some 303 protectant on it. Man the flash makes the panel look like crap, kinda like your own face under florescent lighting... :fear: [url=https://flic.kr/p/nd1xJ2][img]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3829/13919396801_abfb299ed3_b.jpg[/img][/url] [url=https://flic.kr/p/nd1BL1][img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7310/13919410372_c5d236e15a_b.jpg[/img][/url] Today I will button up the hardware, and then run all the speaker wire under the dash, then through the center console then into the trunk. I was going to reuse the existing RCA jacks, but I have a matched set of nice monoprice 15' cables, so I'll yank the old ones out and install the new set. Then I can get the head unit in, and make the final connections and begin testing for proper phase and polarity for all the speakers. Then the final step will be to remove the trunk trim near the tail lights to fit the massive Cerwin Vega daul 12" subwoofer box. I can fit the box in so it lays flat with the drivers pointing up, but I think if I remove the trim panels, I will have enough clearance to rotate the box so the drivers are facing forward. [url=https://flic.kr/p/n1EYTZ][img]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3697/13791097783_4e31ab7b99_b.jpg[/img][/url] [/QUOTE]
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Complete 2013 Boss 302 audio system upgrade
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