Home
What's new
Latest activity
Authors
Store
Latest reviews
Search products
Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New listings
New products
New profile posts
Latest activity
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
Cart
Cart
Loading…
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Search titles only
By:
Menu
Log in
Register
Navigation
Install the app
Install
More options
Change style
Contact us
Close Menu
Forums
Mustang Forums
2012-2013 Boss 302 Mustang
Complete 2013 Boss 302 audio system upgrade
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="ace72ace" data-source="post: 14086192" data-attributes="member: 138112"><p>Over the past weekend I was able to sort out all the wiring harness connections from the Kenwood head unit to Maestro RR module. Had to look at the wiring diagram to sort out the various connections from one harness to the other, and solder together the required wires. Assuming I made the proper connections with the RR module (it includes 2 sets of 3 wires, which I assume one is for the T harness, and one for the ADS-KIT-MUS1), all that was left to get head unit ready to go in the dash was to;</p><p></p><p>Unscrew the shift knob (if you have an automatic, find the procedure for 6AT)</p><p></p><p>Pull out the center console assembly from the main console to allow access to the lower bolts on the OEM dash trim panel - disconnect left side switch connector under console - traction control/trunk release</p><p></p><p>Unscrew the trim panel bolts</p><p></p><p>Pull panel away from dash</p><p></p><p>Disconnect OEM 8 pin harness wiring connection from the lower right hand side of the panel</p><p></p><p>Remove the 4 bolts that secure the OEM head unit to the dash</p><p></p><p>Pull head unit forward so you can reach behind the unit and first disconnect the antenna cable from the bottom middle/right rear side of the head unit. Doing so allows you easier access to remove the remaining 2 wiring harness connections from the bottom/middle section of the unit, and the bottom/left.</p><p></p><p>Head unit ready for removal - Make sure you hit eject before uninstalling to remove any CD you may have inside. FYI - once you disconnect the OEM dash panel, if you start your car with it disconnected, it will blast the fan to max speed on defrost mode by default. It's easy enough to reconnect the panel by plugging in the 8 pin jack again while unbolted from the dash to avoid the max fan blast defrost effect.</p><p></p><p>This left the ODB2 & Sync wire splices. The ODB2 connector is under the dash by your left knee, slightly to the right of due south from the headlamp switch. There is a bolt on the underside of the dash near the connector, leave it be, it's only there to secure the dash to the dash support structure. You can pry the connector from the dash with a short flat blade screwdriver leveraged behind the plastic, pushing it toward the firewall.</p><p></p><p>Once free, cut back an inch or 2 of the cloth electrical tape to expose the required wires.</p><p></p><p><a href="https://flic.kr/p/n5xXnc" target="_blank"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3688/13834992833_3a4efd9a98_c.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p><a href="https://flic.kr/p/n5xXeX" target="_blank"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7117/13834992413_046b7fd679_c.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p></p><p>I harvested 2 small sections of wire from the spare harness connector from the Maestro RR kit to splice into the ODB2 wires. I used a razor knife to trim away about 1/4 inch of insulation on each wire to allow the spare length of wire to wrap around the exposed section, and then apply solder.</p><p></p><p><a href="https://flic.kr/p/n5xRnt" target="_blank"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7001/13834972665_d8950e94fa_c.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p></p><p>Once I had a good solder, I wrapped a small piece of electrical tape around the Y shaped splice. Because of the shape of the extra wire splice, it would be extremely difficult to do the traditional wrap below the area, and stretch over the soldered area technique. So I just got the tape behind the splice, gave it a stretch over the exposed solder splice and gave it one more wrap around. Here you can see the floppy tape end while I preparing the 2nd solder. A pair of hemostats is a great tool to position the 2nd wire for the next splice.</p><p></p><p><a href="https://flic.kr/p/n5xReH" target="_blank"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3678/13834972215_fe7fdaaec2_c.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p><a href="https://flic.kr/p/n5xRZF" target="_blank"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7040/13834974765_4874cb659e_c.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p></p><p>Another wrap around the white wire, and then a good tight wind and stretch over the wire bundle. On the other end I crimped a female bullet connection should I end up having (KNOCK WOOD) any kind of warranty issue, that requires me to pull the head unit. I will perform the same splice of the Sync wire as soon as I can figure out how to release the wiring harness connection from the back of the Sync module behind the glove box.</p><p></p><p><a href="https://flic.kr/p/n5zH8N" target="_blank"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5256/13835335184_ac78db65d9_c.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p><a href="https://flic.kr/p/n5xR6X" target="_blank"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3686/13834971765_f2302787a5_c.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ace72ace, post: 14086192, member: 138112"] Over the past weekend I was able to sort out all the wiring harness connections from the Kenwood head unit to Maestro RR module. Had to look at the wiring diagram to sort out the various connections from one harness to the other, and solder together the required wires. Assuming I made the proper connections with the RR module (it includes 2 sets of 3 wires, which I assume one is for the T harness, and one for the ADS-KIT-MUS1), all that was left to get head unit ready to go in the dash was to; Unscrew the shift knob (if you have an automatic, find the procedure for 6AT) Pull out the center console assembly from the main console to allow access to the lower bolts on the OEM dash trim panel - disconnect left side switch connector under console - traction control/trunk release Unscrew the trim panel bolts Pull panel away from dash Disconnect OEM 8 pin harness wiring connection from the lower right hand side of the panel Remove the 4 bolts that secure the OEM head unit to the dash Pull head unit forward so you can reach behind the unit and first disconnect the antenna cable from the bottom middle/right rear side of the head unit. Doing so allows you easier access to remove the remaining 2 wiring harness connections from the bottom/middle section of the unit, and the bottom/left. Head unit ready for removal - Make sure you hit eject before uninstalling to remove any CD you may have inside. FYI - once you disconnect the OEM dash panel, if you start your car with it disconnected, it will blast the fan to max speed on defrost mode by default. It's easy enough to reconnect the panel by plugging in the 8 pin jack again while unbolted from the dash to avoid the max fan blast defrost effect. This left the ODB2 & Sync wire splices. The ODB2 connector is under the dash by your left knee, slightly to the right of due south from the headlamp switch. There is a bolt on the underside of the dash near the connector, leave it be, it's only there to secure the dash to the dash support structure. You can pry the connector from the dash with a short flat blade screwdriver leveraged behind the plastic, pushing it toward the firewall. Once free, cut back an inch or 2 of the cloth electrical tape to expose the required wires. [url=https://flic.kr/p/n5xXnc][img]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3688/13834992833_3a4efd9a98_c.jpg[/img][/url] [url=https://flic.kr/p/n5xXeX][img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7117/13834992413_046b7fd679_c.jpg[/img][/url] I harvested 2 small sections of wire from the spare harness connector from the Maestro RR kit to splice into the ODB2 wires. I used a razor knife to trim away about 1/4 inch of insulation on each wire to allow the spare length of wire to wrap around the exposed section, and then apply solder. [url=https://flic.kr/p/n5xRnt][img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7001/13834972665_d8950e94fa_c.jpg[/img][/url] Once I had a good solder, I wrapped a small piece of electrical tape around the Y shaped splice. Because of the shape of the extra wire splice, it would be extremely difficult to do the traditional wrap below the area, and stretch over the soldered area technique. So I just got the tape behind the splice, gave it a stretch over the exposed solder splice and gave it one more wrap around. Here you can see the floppy tape end while I preparing the 2nd solder. A pair of hemostats is a great tool to position the 2nd wire for the next splice. [url=https://flic.kr/p/n5xReH][img]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3678/13834972215_fe7fdaaec2_c.jpg[/img][/url] [url=https://flic.kr/p/n5xRZF][img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7040/13834974765_4874cb659e_c.jpg[/img][/url] Another wrap around the white wire, and then a good tight wind and stretch over the wire bundle. On the other end I crimped a female bullet connection should I end up having (KNOCK WOOD) any kind of warranty issue, that requires me to pull the head unit. I will perform the same splice of the Sync wire as soon as I can figure out how to release the wiring harness connection from the back of the Sync module behind the glove box. [url=https://flic.kr/p/n5zH8N][img]https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5256/13835335184_ac78db65d9_c.jpg[/img][/url] [url=https://flic.kr/p/n5xR6X][img]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3686/13834971765_f2302787a5_c.jpg[/img][/url] [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Mustang Forums
2012-2013 Boss 302 Mustang
Complete 2013 Boss 302 audio system upgrade
Top