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Mach 1
Comp Orange Mach 1 restoration...
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<blockquote data-quote="Recon" data-source="post: 16074406" data-attributes="member: 181287"><p>It was to end my paranoia. I wanted to see how everything looked bolted up. My dealer wasn’t able to have all of them, that day so I got a pack (4). The used crank had me worried even though my machine shop gave it a pass.</p></blockquote><p>I hear almost selling the car... damn near sold the one in my sig a few times, only thing that forced me to finish it was the military moving me and it was either get it done asap or part it.[/QUOTE]</p><p></p><p></p><p>I remember when you got it. My urge to drive the car was increasing while nothing was getting done. Very frustrating. But now I’m back on the restoration and hopefully I’ll have it running before it gets warm here.</p><p></p><p></p><p>[/QUOTE]LMK if you have any questions or issues with the build, 4Vs are pretty simple but diff ppl run into diff issues or something is missing or some wire is cut or whatever. To answer your question in a previous post on here the forged cranks are all the exact same Kellog cranks from 96-04 Cobras (minus the R) and the 03/04 Mach. If all you are doing is a stock rebuild or even a higher power build its not needed tho, you could have probably saved a lot of time and money going with any 4.6L cast crank. I used to sell those for $120 shipped in mint condition. Those are good for plenty of power (like 600+) but if you already have forged you already have foreged and G2G there. Just some info for a future project maybe.[/QUOTE] </p><p></p><p></p><p>I want the car as factory as possible, rotating assembly wise. Nothing but a factory ford forged 8 bolt crank was going in this engine. Though I already know it’s not needed, and boost is a much better alternative; I want to cam it. It’s got 97 Cobra cams right now, but later on it’ll get Comp’s. I’m not porting anything either. I know my plans are strange to most and to the level of bizarre but this is what I want to do with the car.</p><p></p><p></p><p>[/QUOTE]Also let me know if you have any IRS questions. I did that whole thing too lol. At this point that rubber is gonna be dry rotted and shot, the cross axis links are probably done too and its never going to be easier to do all of it then now. I did full tilt control arm bushings, full tilt cross axis links, prothane subframe bushings, prothane front differential bushings and full tilt rear diff bushing. Plus new swaybar endlinks, bigger rear swaybar and I did a diff brace but found out after that they are basically gimmicks so save your $$$ with that unless you wanted to do the FRPP diff cover. Lube Locker rear seal when i did the fluid. Did it all with hand tools and a lot of 4 letter words and had to order a lot of the metric grade 10.9 hardware from Fastenal because all the local places had REALLY limited 10.9 stuff. But so worth it in the end. [/QUOTE]</p><p></p><p></p><p>The plan is to have a brushing kit installed with some springs and shock/struts. No coil overs. This isn’t going to be my race car and I don’t want it over 400rwhp. So, I don’t need it be race car level and I do enjoy the challenge of a slightly unruly car.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>That’s the plan. I’m already in contact with a late model mustang restoration shop that will do the body work on the car. I also have a friend of mine who knows someone, that parts out terminator’s for a living, that’s going to let me know when the guy gets a Comp Orange Terminator. So I can rob some parts of off it. I’m excited </p><p></p><p>Edit: sorry for the butchered mess. I thought the quotes would work, but I guess not.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Pick your poison.</p><p>[/QUOTE]</p>
[QUOTE="Recon, post: 16074406, member: 181287"] It was to end my paranoia. I wanted to see how everything looked bolted up. My dealer wasn’t able to have all of them, that day so I got a pack (4). The used crank had me worried even though my machine shop gave it a pass. [/QUOTE] I hear almost selling the car... damn near sold the one in my sig a few times, only thing that forced me to finish it was the military moving me and it was either get it done asap or part it.[/QUOTE] I remember when you got it. My urge to drive the car was increasing while nothing was getting done. Very frustrating. But now I’m back on the restoration and hopefully I’ll have it running before it gets warm here. [/QUOTE]LMK if you have any questions or issues with the build, 4Vs are pretty simple but diff ppl run into diff issues or something is missing or some wire is cut or whatever. To answer your question in a previous post on here the forged cranks are all the exact same Kellog cranks from 96-04 Cobras (minus the R) and the 03/04 Mach. If all you are doing is a stock rebuild or even a higher power build its not needed tho, you could have probably saved a lot of time and money going with any 4.6L cast crank. I used to sell those for $120 shipped in mint condition. Those are good for plenty of power (like 600+) but if you already have forged you already have foreged and G2G there. Just some info for a future project maybe.[/QUOTE] I want the car as factory as possible, rotating assembly wise. Nothing but a factory ford forged 8 bolt crank was going in this engine. Though I already know it’s not needed, and boost is a much better alternative; I want to cam it. It’s got 97 Cobra cams right now, but later on it’ll get Comp’s. I’m not porting anything either. I know my plans are strange to most and to the level of bizarre but this is what I want to do with the car. [/QUOTE]Also let me know if you have any IRS questions. I did that whole thing too lol. At this point that rubber is gonna be dry rotted and shot, the cross axis links are probably done too and its never going to be easier to do all of it then now. I did full tilt control arm bushings, full tilt cross axis links, prothane subframe bushings, prothane front differential bushings and full tilt rear diff bushing. Plus new swaybar endlinks, bigger rear swaybar and I did a diff brace but found out after that they are basically gimmicks so save your $$$ with that unless you wanted to do the FRPP diff cover. Lube Locker rear seal when i did the fluid. Did it all with hand tools and a lot of 4 letter words and had to order a lot of the metric grade 10.9 hardware from Fastenal because all the local places had REALLY limited 10.9 stuff. But so worth it in the end. [/QUOTE] The plan is to have a brushing kit installed with some springs and shock/struts. No coil overs. This isn’t going to be my race car and I don’t want it over 400rwhp. So, I don’t need it be race car level and I do enjoy the challenge of a slightly unruly car. That’s the plan. I’m already in contact with a late model mustang restoration shop that will do the body work on the car. I also have a friend of mine who knows someone, that parts out terminator’s for a living, that’s going to let me know when the guy gets a Comp Orange Terminator. So I can rob some parts of off it. I’m excited Edit: sorry for the butchered mess. I thought the quotes would work, but I guess not. Pick your poison. [/QUOTE]
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