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Mach 1
Comp Orange Mach 1 restoration...
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<blockquote data-quote="scottydsntknow" data-source="post: 16071102" data-attributes="member: 79824"><p>You are re-using the stock TTY hardware? That's what I got from the other post where you said you were missing a bolt and one was rounded? I hope not that is a no-no, a good set of new OEM TTY hardware is cheap and hopefully that's what you wound up doing.</p><p></p><p>I hear almost selling the car... damn near sold the one in my sig a few times, only thing that forced me to finish it was the military moving me and it was either get it done asap or part it. </p><p></p><p>LMK if you have any questions or issues with the build, 4Vs are pretty simple but diff ppl run into diff issues or something is missing or some wire is cut or whatever. To answer your question in a previous post on here the forged cranks are all the exact same Kellog cranks from 96-04 Cobras (minus the R) and the 03/04 Mach. If all you are doing is a stock rebuild or even a higher power build its not needed tho, you could have probably saved a lot of time and money going with any 4.6L cast crank. I used to sell those for $120 shipped in mint condition. Those are good for plenty of power (like 600+) but if you already have forged you already have foreged and G2G there. Just some info for a future project maybe. </p><p></p><p>Also let me know if you have any IRS questions. I did that whole thing too lol. At this point that rubber is gonna be dry rotted and shot, the cross axis links are probably done too and its never going to be easier to do all of it then now. I did full tilt control arm bushings, full tilt cross axis links, prothane subframe bushings, prothane front differential bushings and full tilt rear diff bushing. Plus new swaybar endlinks, bigger rear swaybar and I did a diff brace but found out after that they are basically gimmicks so save your $$$ with that unless you wanted to do the FRPP diff cover. Lube Locker rear seal when i did the fluid. Did it all with hand tools and a lot of 4 letter words and had to order a lot of the metric grade 10.9 hardware from Fastenal because all the local places had REALLY limited 10.9 stuff. But so worth it in the end. </p><p></p><p>Can't wait to see how yours turns out! Just keep getting something done every few days or every weekend and making progress on it and it'll start looking like a whole car pretty fast.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="scottydsntknow, post: 16071102, member: 79824"] You are re-using the stock TTY hardware? That's what I got from the other post where you said you were missing a bolt and one was rounded? I hope not that is a no-no, a good set of new OEM TTY hardware is cheap and hopefully that's what you wound up doing. I hear almost selling the car... damn near sold the one in my sig a few times, only thing that forced me to finish it was the military moving me and it was either get it done asap or part it. LMK if you have any questions or issues with the build, 4Vs are pretty simple but diff ppl run into diff issues or something is missing or some wire is cut or whatever. To answer your question in a previous post on here the forged cranks are all the exact same Kellog cranks from 96-04 Cobras (minus the R) and the 03/04 Mach. If all you are doing is a stock rebuild or even a higher power build its not needed tho, you could have probably saved a lot of time and money going with any 4.6L cast crank. I used to sell those for $120 shipped in mint condition. Those are good for plenty of power (like 600+) but if you already have forged you already have foreged and G2G there. Just some info for a future project maybe. Also let me know if you have any IRS questions. I did that whole thing too lol. At this point that rubber is gonna be dry rotted and shot, the cross axis links are probably done too and its never going to be easier to do all of it then now. I did full tilt control arm bushings, full tilt cross axis links, prothane subframe bushings, prothane front differential bushings and full tilt rear diff bushing. Plus new swaybar endlinks, bigger rear swaybar and I did a diff brace but found out after that they are basically gimmicks so save your $$$ with that unless you wanted to do the FRPP diff cover. Lube Locker rear seal when i did the fluid. Did it all with hand tools and a lot of 4 letter words and had to order a lot of the metric grade 10.9 hardware from Fastenal because all the local places had REALLY limited 10.9 stuff. But so worth it in the end. Can't wait to see how yours turns out! Just keep getting something done every few days or every weekend and making progress on it and it'll start looking like a whole car pretty fast. [/QUOTE]
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