My cobra worked one day, then wouldn’t start the next. With key on, I have 0 fuel pressure - confirmed with both gauges and there was absolutely no pressure when I pressed the schrader valve on the rails. I’ve replaced both the FRPS and FPDM, and those didn’t do anything. When I turn the key on, I can hear the fuel pump whining for a couple seconds. I see 5 volts on the outer pins of the FRPS harness. The FPDM seems to get an inconsistent 12v from the green/yellow wire. My fuel system is completely stock, battery is 8 months old & shows 12v key on, and my fuel filter is 3 yrs 8k miles old. For DTC codes, I’m getting p1235 consistently, and p0190 sometimes. Any ideas on whats going on?
Cobra won’t start, no fuel pressure
- Thread starter CCS_56_EX
- Start date
Check your fuel pump fuse under the hood?
Also, if you or someone did a pprv delete they might have a pinched line or the line might have come off in the tank.
Also, if you or someone did a pprv delete they might have a pinched line or the line might have come off in the tank.
Yeah, the fuel pump fuse (#14) is good. The inertia switch is also pressed down. The engine cranks over, it just isn't close to firing up.
Unless the fuel system in the tank is completely stock then most likely a line blew off inside. Even if stock the lines are still 10 years old.
Thats where I'd look. If the pump is running you should be seeing fuel pressure.
Yeah check the tank, it's a fairly easy process.
Sounds like dropping the tank is the next step. If something did disconnect, I'll likely also do the PPRV delete. Otherwise, looks like I'll be going return style a little sooner than planned.
You can jump pump direct to see if pumps are working before pulling....
it can be a clogged filter..
when I drain my tank..I unhook fuel line below passenger valve cover..old school white pull tab....
fuel pump connector is on rear bumper..I ran power and ground to plug..
it can be a clogged filter..
when I drain my tank..I unhook fuel line below passenger valve cover..old school white pull tab....
fuel pump connector is on rear bumper..I ran power and ground to plug..
There are multiple wires in the fuel pump connector harness - which ones do I use to jump? I tried doing a search, but didn't find any diagrams of that connector.
I should also probably add that it was driving abnormally whenever I shifted from first to second, and gave got on the gas aggressively (but not WOT). It was like the engine would die for a split second, then would come alive abruptly, and cause the tires to chirp. At the time, I was working through high idle issues with a new SBTB, so I chalked it up to that. I put the stock tb back on, went for a quick drive, and the problem seemed to be mostly gone - it hesitated very very slightly, but wasn't anywhere near as abrupt with the SBTB. The next day, the car wouldn't start, with 0 fuel pressure.
Yeah, I can try changing the fuel filter. The car is currently in my very narrow single car garage, so I may have to get creative if I can't lift it with my floor jack.
By the way, thanks for the responses everyone.
I should also probably add that it was driving abnormally whenever I shifted from first to second, and gave got on the gas aggressively (but not WOT). It was like the engine would die for a split second, then would come alive abruptly, and cause the tires to chirp. At the time, I was working through high idle issues with a new SBTB, so I chalked it up to that. I put the stock tb back on, went for a quick drive, and the problem seemed to be mostly gone - it hesitated very very slightly, but wasn't anywhere near as abrupt with the SBTB. The next day, the car wouldn't start, with 0 fuel pressure.
Yeah, I can try changing the fuel filter. The car is currently in my very narrow single car garage, so I may have to get creative if I can't lift it with my floor jack.
By the way, thanks for the responses everyone.
pin 6&7..
Pin 6..bn/pk color. Fuel pump 12v
pin 7...rd/blk color..pump ground..
this will at least confirm pump runs..and if it has gas and flow.or say amount of gas per minute. .
the filter is a pita to change...
What about the frps.
If the fuel filter was clogged, would it be difficult/impossible to remove? I got the driver side end off, but cannot get the passenger to come loose. I have the fuel release tool buried in the line, but can't get it off. Been trying for a solid 30 min, and have bloody hands. Maybe there is a bunch of fuel pressure between the pumps and the filter?
Its usually just a pita to get the filter off as there is no room to work.
If your FRPS did blow earlier it can totally flood the upper end of the motor. I had a friend that had it happen to him. It took new plugs and a ton of cranking to get the car started.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?1030329-Help-car-wont-start!!!
If your FRPS did blow earlier it can totally flood the upper end of the motor. I had a friend that had it happen to him. It took new plugs and a ton of cranking to get the car started.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?1030329-Help-car-wont-start!!!
I pulled the vacuum hose off the original FPRS, and didn't smell any fuel. I also ordered a brand new FRPS, and nothing changed.
I gave up on the fuel filter for today. I'm afraid to put the end I got off back on, in case I can't get it off either. I wanted to change the fuel filter before jumping the pumps, but I need to get a new filter on before doing that. I ordered a fuel line plier tool from amazon, so I'll give it another go on Tuesday. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CEX5C9K/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
If I can't get the fuel filter off, or if there isn't something totally obvious, like a line that came off the hat, I'm just going to upgrade to a return system. I don't like electronics, and want a mechanical fuel system.
I gave up on the fuel filter for today. I'm afraid to put the end I got off back on, in case I can't get it off either. I wanted to change the fuel filter before jumping the pumps, but I need to get a new filter on before doing that. I ordered a fuel line plier tool from amazon, so I'll give it another go on Tuesday. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CEX5C9K/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
If I can't get the fuel filter off, or if there isn't something totally obvious, like a line that came off the hat, I'm just going to upgrade to a return system. I don't like electronics, and want a mechanical fuel system.
You might talk to Malcolmv8, he is in the KC area and a Fore Dealer.
Otc kit from parts store works fine..
push filter into line and twist and wiggle than pull apart..
push filter into line and twist and wiggle than pull apart..
I replaced the fuel filter today. I turned the key a couple times to prime the filter, and fuel pressure went up to 40 psi. I let it idle for about a minute, then turned it off, and brought the car down & cleaned up my tools. Started the car again, and fuel pressure was only 20 psi, and fell to 7psi, as the car started to die.
Does this sound like a fuel pump problem? When they go out, are they hit and miss like this?
Does this sound like a fuel pump problem? When they go out, are they hit and miss like this?
By chance did engine light come on after idle?
Wonder if someone put something in tank thats clogging filter..
checking manual on 1235/190..the only common thing would be a short..
however ccrm could be middle man..there has been alot of threads with ccrm being fuel issue and no start but engine cranks..
checking manual on 1235/190..the only common thing would be a short..
however ccrm could be middle man..there has been alot of threads with ccrm being fuel issue and no start but engine cranks..
It's very unlikely someone put something in the tank. Someone would have had to broken into my garage to do that.
When the engine was idling, the CEL didn't light up. When I started it the second time, I am consistently getting p1235.
Another observation during key on: I hear the click (that I assume is the relay), then the fuel pump whine for a couple seconds, and at the end of the whine, I hear a very quick electrical snap that seems to be coming from the front passenger side. I can't remember if it used to do that or not.
Regarding the short, I've investigated the negative battery connection, and the ground-chassis connections up front, and it's good. In the back, the ground connection near the FPDM is good. I'm not sure where else to look. I am still seeing 12v power coming into the FPDM.
I really don't want to drop the tank, and want that to be a last resort.
When the engine was idling, the CEL didn't light up. When I started it the second time, I am consistently getting p1235.
Another observation during key on: I hear the click (that I assume is the relay), then the fuel pump whine for a couple seconds, and at the end of the whine, I hear a very quick electrical snap that seems to be coming from the front passenger side. I can't remember if it used to do that or not.
Regarding the short, I've investigated the negative battery connection, and the ground-chassis connections up front, and it's good. In the back, the ground connection near the FPDM is good. I'm not sure where else to look. I am still seeing 12v power coming into the FPDM.
I really don't want to drop the tank, and want that to be a last resort.
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