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Mustang Forums
2011-2014 Mustangs
Engine/Tuning
Cobra Jet Cams or Comp Cams????
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<blockquote data-quote="SmokeGreyHatch" data-source="post: 13361823" data-attributes="member: 45470"><p>Don't get caught up in stages, it's marketing "bigger/better". In an N/A car you want port velocity and flow under the curve up to your cam lift. Anything after your max lift is useless. Stage 2/3 usually only pick up past .550 lift which will be pointless at 500 thou or 12.5 mm. You also make the port volume bigger reducing velocity. These heads are extremly efficient for up to 575-600 rwhp (depending on drivetrain efficiencies). No need to do anything more than a valve job and valvetrain (valves/springs, etc). It's all a snowball. If you're going to do the short block, then do oil pump gears, high compression, E85 (12.5-13:1). The problem is that no matter what, you can't get more than 8100 rpm out of these things, Copperhead limited. You have to limit your cam grind for most area under the curve through 8000. At that point SCT can't control TiVCT as well. If you want to shift at 8100, then just run more agressive cams and lockout the VCT altogether. That Boss was not impressive in the 5.0 article. With GT heads and stock cams I was only 10 off with a 4.5 CAI on FTW fuel. The best bang for the buck N/A combo would be:</p><p></p><p>custom cams</p><p>CJ Intake/SCJ TB/4.5 CAI</p><p>longtubes full exhaust</p><p>ID 725's</p><p>3.90 gears</p><p>E85/FTW fuel</p><p></p><p>Mid 10's at 130+ at 3500 lb in good air for less than $5k in mods. Keep the stock heads, valve springs, short block. If you want N/A it's all about weight reduction and efficiency. Big's/Littles, lower with relo brackets and no front sway bar, good RST/RXT clutch, aluminum D/S, and let it eat. 7k dump, 1.49 or better 60' and put a whoopin' on your blower buddies.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SmokeGreyHatch, post: 13361823, member: 45470"] Don't get caught up in stages, it's marketing "bigger/better". In an N/A car you want port velocity and flow under the curve up to your cam lift. Anything after your max lift is useless. Stage 2/3 usually only pick up past .550 lift which will be pointless at 500 thou or 12.5 mm. You also make the port volume bigger reducing velocity. These heads are extremly efficient for up to 575-600 rwhp (depending on drivetrain efficiencies). No need to do anything more than a valve job and valvetrain (valves/springs, etc). It's all a snowball. If you're going to do the short block, then do oil pump gears, high compression, E85 (12.5-13:1). The problem is that no matter what, you can't get more than 8100 rpm out of these things, Copperhead limited. You have to limit your cam grind for most area under the curve through 8000. At that point SCT can't control TiVCT as well. If you want to shift at 8100, then just run more agressive cams and lockout the VCT altogether. That Boss was not impressive in the 5.0 article. With GT heads and stock cams I was only 10 off with a 4.5 CAI on FTW fuel. The best bang for the buck N/A combo would be: custom cams CJ Intake/SCJ TB/4.5 CAI longtubes full exhaust ID 725's 3.90 gears E85/FTW fuel Mid 10's at 130+ at 3500 lb in good air for less than $5k in mods. Keep the stock heads, valve springs, short block. If you want N/A it's all about weight reduction and efficiency. Big's/Littles, lower with relo brackets and no front sway bar, good RST/RXT clutch, aluminum D/S, and let it eat. 7k dump, 1.49 or better 60' and put a whoopin' on your blower buddies. [/QUOTE]
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