clutch slack technique

[socalcobra03]

I made 3 passes at the dragstrip tonight and noticed that after my run, my clutch would develop about 1-2 inches of slack at the top of the pedal before youwould feel any pressure. I used the technique on this board in which you depress the clutch pedal and then release it violantly. This cured the problem.

My question is this, why does this clutch slack develope, and why does this technique work. Is there a problem with my driving at the track, or is this normal. Thanks for the help.

 

[Snakin]

I dont have any answers to your question, but was wondering which track you raced at tonight?

 

[94SVT Coupe]

It's a cable operated clutch. When it wears, the cable has to be adjusted to make it work. You are not correctly doing the adjustment. The correct process is in your owners manual. You have to lift the pedal, then push it in. You'll hear a click as it adjusts. The stock clutch quadant has a spring loaded rachet/teeth setup that will advance a tooth to take up the slack.

 

[blk96SVT]

Does this work on all year Cobras? Cause I have the same symptoms as stated above regarding my clutch pedal. Thanks, I have a '96 BTW.

Tim

 

[94SVT Coupe]

Yes, it works on all FOX chassis Mustangs, all the way back to 1979. It's the same clutch quadrant they used 25 years ago.

 

[99cobrablack]

also the same as merkur x4ti but --not the same as turbo coupe bird(all hydralic



























0

 

[SVT4ME]

How often should this be done?

 

[julio]

Originally posted by 94SVT Coupe
Yes, it works on all FOX chassis Mustangs, all the way back to 1979. It's the same clutch quadrant they used 25 years ago.

79-83 had manual adjustment, 84 up had the technique as described above.

I also noticed that after shifting hard, my free travel also increases on my 03. None of the cars I have had previously did this. I think that maybe my cable maybe stretching somewhat because when I adjust it, I hear no click but the extra free travel goes away.....

 

[jtfx6552]

From this post:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20714&highlight=paw+and+quadrant

When you lift the clutch pedal a tab releases the "paw" from the "quadrant". The quadrant is spring loaded to rotate in the direction that takes up the slack in the cable. Release the upward pull on the pedal and the paw will re-engage the quadrant in the new tighter position.

If there was enough slack for the quadrant to move at least "a tooth" relative to the paw, the clutch will now grab higher up.

JT

 

[socalcobra03]

I was told by my service rep that the technique of pulling up on the clutch pedal does not apply to our cars becuase it is hydraulic. I told him about the technique of pushing the pedal in and he had no idea why it works. By the way, i was racing at firebird raceway in Phoenix

 

[jtfx6552]

Originally posted by socalcobra03
I was told by my service rep that the technique of pulling up on the clutch pedal does not apply to our cars becuase it is hydraulic. I told him about the technique of pushing the pedal in and he had no idea why it works. By the way, i was racing at firebird raceway in Phoenix

No offence to you of course, but your service rep is an idiot.

The proper clutch adjustment procedure is to lift the pedal.

JT