Looks like clutch time. Currently has a Spec stage 2+/low pedal effort plate. Spec doesn't seem to make these any more or I'd just replace it; it's an ok street clutch. What do you guys recommend for a DD with the same or lower pedal effort. Dual disk is ok by me if that's the way to go. Does about 610 to the tires if that info is helpful. Thanks for any guidance.
Clutch replacement time - what to get?
- Thread starter Avispa
- Start date
i daily drive mine, and i think the lighter pedal effort of the twin discs make them the way to go.
conventional single disc pressure plates aren't nearly as easy to depress because they have to have more clamping force.
conventional single disc pressure plates aren't nearly as easy to depress because they have to have more clamping force.
Thanks for the replies. The Spec 2+ is also lighter peal pressure than stock and it's supposed to hold 650. I'm leaning toward a dual disk for the reasons P49Y-CY says. Any particular brand you prefer? I read good and bad about McLeod RST/RXT but have no info on anyone else's.
The twin disc clutches are great if you have $$$. At your HP level you are no where near needing one. I recently pulled my Centerforce DFX clutch which was great to 800rw. Spec Stage 3+ would be a good option at over half the price of a twin disc.
I put an RXT in my twin turbo project, nice light pedal. If you just need a disc to get you going, I have a new in box spec stage 3+ good for 850 wrhp as spec claims. Just resurface your pressure plate and flywheel and good to go
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
OK, this is really helpful... No doubt the HP isn't enough to need a dual disk to hold it. I wasn't sure about the pedal effort on a Centerforce DFX, another Spec or anything similar - I had a Spec Stage 2 in it at one time and that was a real PITA in traffic. So is the factory clutch. It's my DD - spend a couple hours in traffic on I-10 west of Houston and you'll understand. I hadn't thought about just replacing the disk b/c I wasn't sure whether a different disk would work - what's the compressed thickness and required plate pullback? IDK. geoff, that may be a great solution if it will work. The Stage 2+ doesn't slip (yet), it just wore down to the point where there's no aft freeplay in the fork. I could fix that with an adjustable pivot ball, but that seems like a band-aid, esp. with about 40,000 on the clutch. If the trans has to come out, might as well fix everything.
I would do a twin disk personally. Coming from a Spec 3+ myself, the light pedal effort from them is a game changer on driving enjoyment IMO. Yeah, you aren't at the power level of it being required, but just from a pedal effort standpoint with you driving the car in traffic ect, you would love it.
Consider the more street friendly RST as opposed to the RXT, or look into the Centerforce DYAD. I went with the RXT personally, but if it wasn't for the deal I got on the RXT, then I would have went with the DYAD, an it'll be the next clutch I use if I ever need another one. The RXT drives great for me, but I hear the RST is a little more street friendly. The Mcleod's are a bit tricky to get setup correctly, so that they engage right and last, and the DYAD seems like its more straight forward.
Consider the more street friendly RST as opposed to the RXT, or look into the Centerforce DYAD. I went with the RXT personally, but if it wasn't for the deal I got on the RXT, then I would have went with the DYAD, an it'll be the next clutch I use if I ever need another one. The RXT drives great for me, but I hear the RST is a little more street friendly. The Mcleod's are a bit tricky to get setup correctly, so that they engage right and last, and the DYAD seems like its more straight forward.
If your pedal effort is too high with your current setup for traffic jams, then you will want the RST or centerforce. Also Mantic makes an over the top product but it’s a bit more spendy.
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
Might be worth lubing the cable before you start swapping clutches. Some guys have had good luck reducing pedal effort that way.
These suggestions are what I needed. As it happens the cable is brand new and was lubed before installation. Yes, it's a MM reproduction cable. The pedal effort with the Spec Stage 2+ (low effort plate) is ok. . Regular Stage 2 or Stage 2+, not so much. I don't want to change the clutch to fix a pedal force issue; the clutch is just getting toward the end of its life and probably needs to be replaced. So it's a choice between geoff's stage 3+ disk or a dual disk. IDK if the stage 3+ disk will work with the stage 2+ plate. Maybe one of you does know. Not sure I want to find out after R&R the trans and clutch 
I appreciate all the help with this, guys.
I appreciate all the help with this, guys.
You won't go wrong with a Centerforce Dual Friction. Not as expensive as the twin-disc clutches, no noise, grab like mad, and lower pedal effort. Direct bolt-in and no fussing with the pivot ball.
A bunch on them---> Drivetrain
Holding up great behind my new Aluminator with the Whipple (build in sig).
A bunch on them---> Drivetrain
Holding up great behind my new Aluminator with the Whipple (build in sig).
Personally I'd do twin disk. I just installed an RXT and it's pretty light, definitely helps the leg out. Do you plan to add more power in the future? If you went twin disk that would give you the option to add more power and not have to worry about it.
This car has all the power it's going to get. Has 118k on it; don't want to blow it up. That said, I have a CF dual friction clutch in another car and it's really good. That one only does 450/450 at the crank. Conservatively, the Cobra does 650/600 at the crank. Not sure the DF is rated to that, but it's a great clutch. I'm inclined to go twin disk for the pedal effort and I'll be dead an buried before it has to get replaced.
I got the Exidy mach clutch.
It is bear to shift.
I wanted to add the Lakewood extended fork, but didn't get the shop the needed extended pivot ball bolt; so, they installed the standard OEM fork with it instead.
I not sure that the Lakewood extended fork would have helped much with the pedal effort anyway.
"Do more leg presses" is the lousy smart ass advice I've gotten from some on the Newedge forum....
I say, Get a dual disk for sure..whatever it is..or go 6R80 automatic and be done with the Manual BS entirely.
It is bear to shift.
I wanted to add the Lakewood extended fork, but didn't get the shop the needed extended pivot ball bolt; so, they installed the standard OEM fork with it instead.
I not sure that the Lakewood extended fork would have helped much with the pedal effort anyway.
"Do more leg presses" is the lousy smart ass advice I've gotten from some on the Newedge forum....
I say, Get a dual disk for sure..whatever it is..or go 6R80 automatic and be done with the Manual BS entirely.
Last edited:
Hey thanks for the comment. Yeah, "do more leg presses" is advice given by people who don't use their cars as DDs in heavy city traffic. I'm going with the RST after all the comments made.
Users who are viewing this thread
