Clutch pedal sticking at high RPM shifts

2011 gtcs

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Its not the RPM act passing thats concerning. If it does fail, the aftermarket performance side will suffer greatly and so will the technical side (Tuning and support for after market stand alone ECU'S) of it too. Than as these morons push this EV shit down our throats the worse the EPA and emissions regulations are going to get for gas powered vehicles in the very near future. I personally do not really want to mess with being in violation of the clean air act as these loonies are already threatening federal violation citiations which I believe are just going to get even worse. Its a tough decision. The SS is 50 state legal as it sits. Man.....decisions decisions????



I get what your saying especially when things break or are going wrong but listen man you have a very unique, beautiful Shelby Gt500 that you put your own personal touches into building......IMO it should be priceless to you. Everything we do in life comes with a price!! You have in your possesion a shelby that is not only equal to an SS but in many ways better!!! Its the truth. Everything will work out. The hard work will payoff.
This is true with the with the EPA, I really hope we can get a good conservative president in office that will maybe slow the funding to the EPA, but who knows.

And thank you for the kind words, this car does stress me out, but it's come a long way and I'm proud of it.
 

2011 gtcs

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Got my Motive bleeder today, pretty nice setup for the price. I did the Ford bleeding producer 4 times, clutch pedal feels good, but I need to go out and actually beat on it.
52063054818_3bb7136405_c.jpg
 

SCGallo2

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Got my Motive bleeder today, pretty nice setup for the price. I did the Ford bleeding producer 4 times, clutch pedal feels good, but I need to go out and actually beat on it.

Use pressure to bleed the brakes. Use vacuum to bleed the clutch; it pulls air up into the reservoir.
 

biminiLX

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Did it resolve?
You already know what I’d suggest. :)
Hope you’re banging gears cleanly now. I’ll have mine out this weekend.
-J
 

2011 gtcs

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Use pressure to bleed the brakes. Use vacuum to bleed the clutch; it pulls air up into the reservoir.
Yeah I started doing the process wrong and put pressure to it, than I realized what I was doing and switched it up. I'm going to do it a few more times tonight.
Did it resolve?
You already know what I’d suggest. :)
Hope you’re banging gears cleanly now. I’ll have mine out this weekend.
-J
I haven't driven it yet, but im really hoping it fixes it, if it doesn't I'll do a new clutch master cylinder next. My car is so damn loud I feel bad starting after 8 at night in my neighborhood. I'm probably going to switch back to the stock axle back for a little and try pick up a super snake axle back. The corsa xtremes are overkill with cams lol.
 

tomshep

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I did install a new slave cylinder and pilot bearing with the new clutch. I also installed the supplied shim that Spec included with the kit. I cleaned out the inside of the bell-housing but I didn't add lub to the input shaft, maybe that was something I should have done.
I guess it is possible the throw out bearing could be hanging on the bearing retainer. There should be a light layer of grease applied on the retainer.

Tom
 

2011 gtcs

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I guess it is possible the throw out bearing could be hanging on the bearing retainer. There should be a light layer of grease applied on the retainer.

Tom
It's definitely possible, I do think it's odd how intermittent it is, and it seems to be worse when its hot. I know when I did the clutches on my other GT500s I never put put a grease on the retainer. I tried bleeding the clutch a few more times tonight, hopefully I'll drive it tomorrow after work.
52068145235_3c147a0dd6_c.jpg
 

1Kona_Venom

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Yup still sporting the stock clutch. The holeshot package includes the upgraded clutch package. I was told by shelby it was not necessary unless I bumped to 1000 hp at the crank/flywheel holeshot package and that the stock clutch was good to 900 hp.
crazy and I just don't agree with the assessment that 900hp is the "magic#"
anyways, back to Steves sticking clutch
 
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SCGallo2

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crazy and I just don't agree with the assessment that 900hp is the "magic#"

That number is the standard line quoted by Shelby American from Kenne Bell's tech tips, testing on a DynoJet. I believe most of the owners on SVTP know better... no chance of a stock clutch living at that power level, if using the power on the street or strip, a garage queen or car show model maybe. At 700 HP/700 TQ, your burnouts and rips through the gears are numbered.

Back to Steve's sticking clutch... I would have gone with a DYAD DS Twin 10.4 for my second clutch replacement, but Spec was really good to me on my rebuild. They resurfaced my flywheel and replaced everything else with brand new components for around $650. I have always been very happy with their clutch feel and release, so I have been fearful of trying something else and being disappointed. If you have to go back in, I can understand you wanting to change everything.
 

Vinnie_B

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crazy and I just don't agree with the assessment that 900hp is the "magic#"
anyways, back to Steves sticking clutch
That number is the standard line quoted by Shelby American from Kenne Bell's tech tips, testing on a DynoJet. I believe most of the owners on SVTP know better... no chance of a stock clutch living at that power level, if using the power on the street or strip, a garage queen or car show model maybe. At 700 HP/700 TQ, your burnouts and rips through the gears are numbered.

Back to Steve's sticking clutch... I would have gone with a DYAD DS Twin 10.4 for my second clutch replacement, but Spec was really good to me on my rebuild. They resurfaced my flywheel and replaced everything else with brand new components for around $650. I have always been very happy with their clutch feel and release, so I have been fearful of trying something else and being disappointed. If you have to go back in, I can understand you wanting to change everything.
Thanks for the heads up gents. Hopefully, I can get the holeshot package done at shelby this fall and that should take care of that weak link with a few others. I really dont beat on the car.......ACCCEPT when I can catch a hellcat, redeye or vette to embarrass. Its on than......:p.
 

2011 gtcs

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That number is the standard line quoted by Shelby American from Kenne Bell's tech tips, testing on a DynoJet. I believe most of the owners on SVTP know better... no chance of a stock clutch living at that power level, if using the power on the street or strip, a garage queen or car show model maybe. At 700 HP/700 TQ, your burnouts and rips through the gears are numbered.

Back to Steve's sticking clutch... I would have gone with a DYAD DS Twin 10.4 for my second clutch replacement, but Spec was really good to me on my rebuild. They resurfaced my flywheel and replaced everything else with brand new components for around $650. I have always been very happy with their clutch feel and release, so I have been fearful of trying something else and being disappointed. If you have to go back in, I can understand you wanting to change everything.
I ran a McLeod RXT clutch in my 08 GT500 and I hated it, it chattered like crazy, than I put a Spec SS clutch in my 13 GT500 and I loved it, it was a great clutch. But the spec SS clutch in my current GT500 has been a pain in the ass. I don't understand why. I'm going to take the car for a spin tomorrow after work and see how everything feels. I've done the vaccum bleeding process 6 times and pumped the clutch probably 300 times. If it's still acting up it's time to start replacing parts.
Thanks for the heads up gents. Hopefully, I can get the holeshot package done at shelby this fall and that should take care of that weak link with a few others. I really dont beat on the car.......ACCCEPT when I can catch a hellcat, redeye or vette to embarrass. Its on than......:p.
I'm still saying do the holeshot package.
 

2011 gtcs

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Finally had time to take her out today and drove her harder than I have in long time lol. I would say the clutch pedal situation feels 80% better, I wouldn't say it's perfect, but for now I can live with it. I got a price quote on a brand new pedal assembly from Ford ($468) which comes with a new clutch master cylinder, I'm eventually going to swap that out just so everything is brand new.

I'll say after all the shit that went through my head of what could go wrong after putting in the new engine, this was definitely the last thing I expected to have a issue with. but it's overall a lot better than it was after vacuum bleeding the clutch.
Thanks again guys.
 

WicK

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Finally had time to take her out today and drove her harder than I have in long time lol. I would say the clutch pedal situation feels 80% better, I wouldn't say it's perfect, but for now I can live with it. I got a price quote on a brand new pedal assembly from Ford ($468) which comes with a new clutch master cylinder, I'm eventually going to swap that out just so everything is brand new.

I'll say after all the shit that went through my head of what could go wrong after putting in the new engine, this was definitely the last thing I expected to have a issue with. but it's overall a lot better than it was after vacuum bleeding the clutch.
Thanks again guys.
how did you make out?
 

railroad

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I have not read all of the replies, but have found that my GT500 does not need a full pedal travel to disengage the clutch and make good shifts.
I have contemplated putting a block on the back of the pedal or or on the floor to stop full travel.
You might have to address the clutch switch for starting, but I will bet your shifts are better and should have pedal return.
Good luck,
 

2011 gtcs

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how did you make out?
So far its about 80% better. I wouldn't say it's perfect, but I don't really notice anymore at high RPMs.
I have not read all of the replies, but have found that my GT500 does not need a full pedal travel to disengage the clutch and make good shifts.
I have contemplated putting a block on the back of the pedal or or on the floor to stop full travel.
You might have to address the clutch switch for starting, but I will bet your shifts are better and should have pedal return.
Good luck,
The Spec SS clutch I have engages very high, so something like that might be a good idea, but I would almost rather replace the complete pedal assembly and clutch master cylinder to see if that makes the clutch pedal return faster. But for right now I can live with it.
 

biminiLX

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So far its about 80% better. I wouldn't say it's perfect, but I don't really notice anymore at high RPMs.

The Spec SS clutch I have engages very high, so something like that might be a good idea, but I would almost rather replace the complete pedal assembly and clutch master cylinder to see if that makes the clutch pedal return faster. But for right now I can live with it.
The enemy of good is perfect.
My advice is to just drive and enjoy the car.
Good luck.
-J
 

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