Clutch or transmission? Hard getting into 1st gear when hot

[3Laser3]

When my car is warmed up, I have a hard time getting into 1st gear from a complete stop so I replaced the stock quadrant (which looked fine) and firewall adjuster with MM products but I’m still running the stock cable. When I had a new clutch installed (10k miles ago) they left it with 1-2 inches of play where it took very little pressure before I could start to feel the tension with the stock setup. I followed MM adjustment instructions as best I could. I couldn’t quite figure out how to measure 5-8# pressure. Currently, I have the firewall adjuster a little more than halfway out of the firewall and the clutch engagement is about ½ way up towards me. On the pedal, there’s about ½ inch of play where I need very little pressure before I can start to feel the tension.

I adjusted the cable where it engages high (closer to me), it had about 2 inches of play, and I still had a hard time getting into 1st gear. I also adjusted the cable low (closer to the floor), it had no play, and I had a hard time getting into 1st gear some of the time instead of always. I was afraid if I made it engage even closer to the floor, I’d put way too much pressure on the TOB, and it feels a little awkward/uncomfortable.

Any suggestions on fixing my issue with having a hard time getting into 1st gear from a complete stop when the car is warmed? Is my clutch still out of adjustment? Is my clutch cable bad? Or is it in my transmission? Sorry for the long post; just trying to get all the details in there.

Thanks,

Nick

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

according to promotion powertrain proper clutch adjustment is roughly a dime thickness gap between the plastic collar on the clutch cable and the firewall adjuster when you pull it toward the radiator. The pickup and release points are what they are.

if that doesnt fix it you can always try a drain and fill with some fresh fluid

 

[01yellercobra]

How easy is it to get into gear with the engine off?

 

[hotcobra03]

For me after having similar issues before and after clutch and quadrant replacement ,

I removed the clutch cable and in hand I sprayed WD into the cable and flooded it.

Installed again with clutch fork against pressure plate and it shifted like a honda .

 

[LV_Ford_Fan]

I had had problems with the MM cable. Maybe I got a bad one. I put the factory cable back and lubed it with WD (per hotcobra03 from an older post). So much better now.

My MM cable would twist with clutch pedal motion and move the quadrant adjuster. I used three different adjusters including two locking ones and it did not help.

If you compare the factory cable with the MM the factory cable is much beefier and does not twist at all. Like I said maybe I got a bad MM one.

 

[01yellercobra]

I had had problems with the MM cable. Maybe I got a bad one. I put the factory cable back and lubed it with WD (per hotcobra03 from an older post). So much better now.

My MM cable would twist with clutch pedal motion and move the quadrant adjuster. I used three different adjusters including two locking ones and it did not help.

If you compare the factory cable with the MM the factory cable is much beefier and does not twist at all. Like I said maybe I got a bad MM one.

How long ago was this? MM used to use Ford cables and just removed the pieces at the end for you. But I think we're SOL on good cables now.

 

[3Laser3]

according to promotion powertrain proper clutch adjustment is roughly a dime thickness gap between the plastic collar on the clutch cable and the firewall adjuster when you pull it toward the radiator. The pickup and release points are what they are.

if that doesnt fix it you can always try a drain and fill with some fresh fluid

I've read that on here before (maybe from you) and I've seen a video on this (not from them). I understand putting the dime there, but can't you move the firewall adjuster in or out and still keep that dime gap?

I'm leaning towards the transmission drain and fill next.

The car goes into all gears just fine while the car is off.

I hadn't heard of flooding the clutch cable with WD40, but I guess that's an option, too.

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

I've read that on here before (maybe from you) and I've seen a video on this (not from them). I understand putting the dime there, but can't you move the firewall adjuster in or out and still keep that dime gap?

I'm leaning towards the transmission drain and fill next.

The car goes into all gears just fine while the car is off.

I hadn't heard of flooding the clutch cable with WD40, but I guess that's an option, too.

Eh, not really. They have a video on their channel. The piece on the cable is going to “rest” against the adjuster. When you grab the cable near the adjuster and pull backwards that’s when you’re checking that gap

 

[LV_Ford_Fan]

How long ago was this? MM used to use Ford cables and just removed the pieces at the end for you. But I think we're SOL on good cables now.

December 2021. I laid both the factory and the MM cables out on the floor. If you grab both ends and twist the MM cable flexes easily. The factory cable is much stiffer and does not flex.

 

[Murderedsvt]

December 2021. I laid both the factory and the MM cables out on the floor. If you grab both ends and twist the MM cable flexes easily. The factory cable is much stiffer and does not flex.

Too bad we can’t get oem cables anymore.

 

[P49Y-CY]

The car goes into all gears just fine while the car is off.

so that pretty much answers your thread title for the most part

difficulties with 1st and/or reverse at idle that disappear with key on/engine off means it's a clutch adjustment problem.

in my experience you just have to keep fiddling with it until it's right, and each car is different.

 

[3Laser3]

I see people are running Amsoil ATF but they don't mention if it's the red cap or blue cap?

or

 

[olympic]

I see people are running Amsoil ATF but they don't mention if it's the red cap or blue cap?

Red bottle. The blue bottle is much lower viscosity.

 

[3Laser3]

Red bottle. The blue bottle is much lower viscosity.

Thanks! Now I need to see if I can get it locally.