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SVT Shelby GT500
Clutch "Mod" Everyone Should Do
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<blockquote data-quote="Robert M" data-source="post: 16560547" data-attributes="member: 9628"><p>We had an in-depth discussion on the discoloration of the brake fluid and "turning dark"........and after much discussion we came to the conclusion that poor brake/clutch system maint. is the problem. The fluid turns dark over time, it is what happens when the fluid is not regularly flushed. The brake system is stainless steel lines (no rust) and the clutch system is alum. with a plastic line (no rust) and if by chance the fluid was to be heated by the clutch to the point of darkening, that plastic line would melt, so that is not the issue. If it was clutch dust, then there would be a leak in the bell housing area and in reality the clutch system pressure would push out of any leak, not suck in dust. Over time the fluid darkens as it is exposed to moisture in the air in the M/C, the pads get thinner and air replaces the fluid as the level goes down and the fluid absorbs the moisture and discolors over time. The rear nipple on the oem master cylinder is where the clutch gets its feed, since that nipple is at the rear of that reservoir and any heavier contaminates in the M/C reservoir will be sucked into the clutch system every time the clutch is exercised, which is often on these cars, so that dark contamination makes it's way to the lowest point in the clutch system. Of course acceleration will also migrate the heavier contaminants to the rear of the M/C reservoir also, right there for the clutch nipple feed.......</p><p></p><p>Ok, so now the clutch system itself.........Since there is no "slave cylinder" with a bleeder to flush the system the McLeod Bleeder for the 2005-2014 Mustang is the best option (shown below). To bleed the clutch system from the M/C (brake or separated clutch) to the bell housing you open the bleeder and press the clutch pedal until it is clear fluid, close the bleeder.........To "somewhat" bleed the TOB , you press the clutch pedal down and then open the bleeder allowing the pressure plate to push the TOB back and push the lower fluid out through the bleeder. That is about as good as it will get........but that McLeod bleeder is the key.......</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1683855[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>When I get to it, I am going to install the McLeod bleeder and the FRPP pre-curved stainless line, mainly to get rid of the plastic/oem line and the pre-curved hugs the firewall properly....</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1683856[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>R</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Robert M, post: 16560547, member: 9628"] We had an in-depth discussion on the discoloration of the brake fluid and "turning dark"........and after much discussion we came to the conclusion that poor brake/clutch system maint. is the problem. The fluid turns dark over time, it is what happens when the fluid is not regularly flushed. The brake system is stainless steel lines (no rust) and the clutch system is alum. with a plastic line (no rust) and if by chance the fluid was to be heated by the clutch to the point of darkening, that plastic line would melt, so that is not the issue. If it was clutch dust, then there would be a leak in the bell housing area and in reality the clutch system pressure would push out of any leak, not suck in dust. Over time the fluid darkens as it is exposed to moisture in the air in the M/C, the pads get thinner and air replaces the fluid as the level goes down and the fluid absorbs the moisture and discolors over time. The rear nipple on the oem master cylinder is where the clutch gets its feed, since that nipple is at the rear of that reservoir and any heavier contaminates in the M/C reservoir will be sucked into the clutch system every time the clutch is exercised, which is often on these cars, so that dark contamination makes it's way to the lowest point in the clutch system. Of course acceleration will also migrate the heavier contaminants to the rear of the M/C reservoir also, right there for the clutch nipple feed....... Ok, so now the clutch system itself.........Since there is no "slave cylinder" with a bleeder to flush the system the McLeod Bleeder for the 2005-2014 Mustang is the best option (shown below). To bleed the clutch system from the M/C (brake or separated clutch) to the bell housing you open the bleeder and press the clutch pedal until it is clear fluid, close the bleeder.........To "somewhat" bleed the TOB , you press the clutch pedal down and then open the bleeder allowing the pressure plate to push the TOB back and push the lower fluid out through the bleeder. That is about as good as it will get........but that McLeod bleeder is the key....... [ATTACH=full]1683855[/ATTACH] When I get to it, I am going to install the McLeod bleeder and the FRPP pre-curved stainless line, mainly to get rid of the plastic/oem line and the pre-curved hugs the firewall properly.... [ATTACH=full]1683856[/ATTACH] R [/QUOTE]
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