Home
What's new
Latest activity
Authors
Store
Latest reviews
Search products
Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New listings
New products
New profile posts
Latest activity
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
Cart
Cart
Loading…
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Search titles only
By:
Menu
Log in
Register
Navigation
Install the app
Install
More options
Change style
Contact us
Close Menu
Forums
Cobra Forums
SVT Shelby GT500
Clutch "Mod" Everyone Should Do
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Catmonkey" data-source="post: 16559116" data-attributes="member: 124025"><p>I installed the 13-14 clutch master on my 2012 and your car used the same clutch master mine did. As far as the billet pivot piece, I have no idea if it will work with the 13-14 master cylinder, so I am not saying that it will work. However, the piston rods do appear similar, so I think it's a good chance it would. The only other issue I had with this mod was with the clutch safety sensor. I had a no start condition, when I got through with this and a bunch of other upgrades and ultimately determined the clutch stop shiming prevented the rubber piece on the clutch pedal from contacting and depressing the clutch safety switch. I used a small rubber bumper like this to fix the issue.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1683380[/ATTACH] </p><p>The pic is larger than actual size. You can find something like this at a hardware store. I have a bunch if you can't find one. I'd be willing to send one if you cover cost of mailing. I attached it with a small machine screw and nut. </p><p></p><p>It's been a while since I did this, but with the billet piece, you could probably clearance the contact points and not have to worry about shims and spacers. Just cycle the clutch with the pedal assembly out of the car and you can see where that plastic piece can hit the master cylinder (or maybe it was the pedal assembly). Just spit balling this last part. </p><p></p><p>It's just way too big a PITA for me to go back and do any of this unless something breaks. In my advancing old age, laying on my back with my head tilted up brings on motion sickness symptoms after about 30 minutes or so in that position. This is after removing the driver seat to lay down on the floor of the car to work. It's made even more difficult if you have a long wing span. I spent considerable time trying to figure out how to remove the pin for the brake master cylinder. I found a youtube video where someone used a small, properly sized, deep socket on the locking side of the pin which made removal a snap. Ford also recommends replacement of the pin (plastic) after removal, so if you intend to do that, get one in advance.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Catmonkey, post: 16559116, member: 124025"] I installed the 13-14 clutch master on my 2012 and your car used the same clutch master mine did. As far as the billet pivot piece, I have no idea if it will work with the 13-14 master cylinder, so I am not saying that it will work. However, the piston rods do appear similar, so I think it's a good chance it would. The only other issue I had with this mod was with the clutch safety sensor. I had a no start condition, when I got through with this and a bunch of other upgrades and ultimately determined the clutch stop shiming prevented the rubber piece on the clutch pedal from contacting and depressing the clutch safety switch. I used a small rubber bumper like this to fix the issue. [ATTACH=full]1683380[/ATTACH] The pic is larger than actual size. You can find something like this at a hardware store. I have a bunch if you can't find one. I'd be willing to send one if you cover cost of mailing. I attached it with a small machine screw and nut. It's been a while since I did this, but with the billet piece, you could probably clearance the contact points and not have to worry about shims and spacers. Just cycle the clutch with the pedal assembly out of the car and you can see where that plastic piece can hit the master cylinder (or maybe it was the pedal assembly). Just spit balling this last part. It's just way too big a PITA for me to go back and do any of this unless something breaks. In my advancing old age, laying on my back with my head tilted up brings on motion sickness symptoms after about 30 minutes or so in that position. This is after removing the driver seat to lay down on the floor of the car to work. It's made even more difficult if you have a long wing span. I spent considerable time trying to figure out how to remove the pin for the brake master cylinder. I found a youtube video where someone used a small, properly sized, deep socket on the locking side of the pin which made removal a snap. Ford also recommends replacement of the pin (plastic) after removal, so if you intend to do that, get one in advance. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Cobra Forums
SVT Shelby GT500
Clutch "Mod" Everyone Should Do
Top