Clutch fork hitting pressure plate - OE/OEM Parts

mnetwork

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Last year my TOB finally went out, it had been making noise for years. I didn't have time to do it myself so I gave it to a shop around the corner from me. I told them to use a FRPP HD TOB, new FRPP clutch fork, and the Lethal Performance TOB retainer sleeve. While they were in there they said the clutch had some wear (OEM) and asked if I wanted to replace it. It was only a little more to do it, so I said fine. They used an OE clutch and when I got the car back the clutch pedal had some play. They said they couldn't get it any tighter and I could do an adjustable cable/quadrant if I wanted to take up the slack and said the clutch cable was probably stretched (though it had no slack before this). I said fine and ordered FRPP adjustable cable, FRPP firewall adjuster, and FRPP double hook quadrant. I finally got around to installing these today. I adjusted everything using the recommendations I've heard. I went to start the car and it made a crazy noise. I turned it off, went under the car, and realized the fork was hitting the pressure plate. I put JUST ENOUGH slack into the clutch cable so they wouldn't touch and I'm pretty much back to the same pedal play as before I did this.

To me the only thing to blame could be the OE clutch since everything else is FRPP and new. Everything was OEM before the clutch/TOB swap also and there were no issues. Would this be correct? Is this common for an OE clutch?
 

Albatross

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I would guess something is not installed right. The only way I could imagine that the fork could contact the pressure plate is if the fork wasn't installed correctly. Maybe it wasn't clipped on the pivot ball all the way and it worked itself loose. Can you get some pics of the clutch and fork through the inspection hole?
 

hotcobra03

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They did something wrong.

Tob is tricky on the clips while getting pivot clips to sit.

Im thinking tob, isn't right.

If the pivot end was off it wouldn't shift

Tob, I have changed on mine a few times

Not much else to pick from for cause
 

mnetwork

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They did something wrong.

Tob is tricky on the clips while getting pivot clips to sit.

Im thinking tob, isn't right.

If the pivot end was off it wouldn't shift

Tob, I have changed on mine a few times

Not much else to pick from for cause

How would one mess up the TOB on this to make that happen? I have never had this trans off myself. From ones I've one on other cars I can't picture how to get in this situation.

I tried to get a pic, but nothing helpful is in there. Just the marking on the highest part of the pressure plate.
 

MG0h3

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Must’ve put the TOB on the fork wrong.

Try and get a pic.

TOB should be touching the PP and spinning at all times


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hotcobra03

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How would one mess up the TOB on this to make that happen? I have never had this trans off myself. From ones I've one on other cars I can't picture how to get in this situation.

I tried to get a pic, but nothing helpful is in there. Just the marking on the highest part of the pressure plate.

Did you get old parts back?

If not, next time do. 2 reasons

1 not every part is made perfect.
2 shows the shop did what you paid for.


If you have old fork and bearing.

Put bearing on fork

You will see clips to hold it in place

These
When you install over input sleeve than attach pivot end its a tight fit.

Tob will move on fork and here it slides past clip end and if your not watching clip goes under tob,tilting it.

Causing fork to go to far forward.

Just jmo
 

mnetwork

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They agreed to take the car back on Monday, so we'll see what they find. They are also leaning towards it being something odd with the OE clutch, but I'll send an update on the findings once we know what is going on.
 

03' White Snake

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Something has changed with these cars over the years.

I installed a magnum, Spec 3+, OEM flywheel, new Ford clutch fork and cable in my car 4-5 yrs ago, No issues. Same exact setup on my buddies car, we had to grind and modify the clutch fork because it was hitting the transmission. All the same parts were used, just bought 4 years difference. Not sure which was the issue but sounds like you are having the same issue.

Does not mean the shop did anything wrong. Hopefully they will work with you on labor to fix the issue. Sounds like one of the parts you chose isn't quite right.

Google magnum transmission clutch fork grinding and you will see what I mean. It has been becoming more common to grind the fork to make it work. I've seen it more and more now.
 

mnetwork

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So shop took the car today and called me a few hours later. They looked up the issue and then said it is common and installed a clutch freeplay spring that basically takes up the slack when the clutch is not pressed. I'm not sure how I feel about this. Should I be worried that the clutch is not being fully disengaged? That is my first thought.
 

mnetwork

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They installed the little spring to take up the slack (kind of a cheater move), but we DID verify that the clutch is fully disengaging. I also verified it myself when I got home. I was most concerned about that. I had the rear wheels off the ground and 1-6 gear the wheels stop when the clutch is pushed in and don't start spinning until you come a little bit off the floor.

The only thing that makes sense now is that this clutch has less engage<->disengage travel than an OEM clutch.
 

MG0h3

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That is not the correct move.

With the factory clutch quadrant (assy that the pedal actuates the cable with) you lift up on the pedal to adjust the free play. There are plastic gears that self adjust.

Those can break over time, and then you install an aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster.




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mnetwork

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That is not the correct move.

With the factory clutch quadrant (assy that the pedal actuates the cable with) you lift up on the pedal to adjust the free play. There are plastic gears that self adjust.

Those can break over time, and then you install an aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster.




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I installed a FRPP quadrant, FRPP adjustable cable, and FRPP firewall adjuster already. The issue was the same before and after (see first post).

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MG0h3

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I installed a FRPP quadrant, FRPP adjustable cable, and FRPP firewall adjuster already. The issue was the same before and after (see first post).

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My bad on not re reading the first post.

Regardless, something is wrong. Maybe you have the cable on the wrong hook and can’t adjust your firewall adjuster enough to take up the slack.

If you used a spring and not the cable to pull the fork up to the PP, there should be slack you need to take up with the pedal before the cable starts pulling on the fork.


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me32

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I installed a FRPP quadrant, FRPP adjustable cable, and FRPP firewall adjuster already. The issue was the same before and after (see first post).

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Not a fan of the adjustable cable. Alot of issue seem to come from adjustable cables. I recommend OEM cable.
 

MG0h3

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Ya man just order an OE cable. Have to trim the end a little to fit most firewall adjusters if I recall.


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mnetwork

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My bad on not re reading the first post.

Regardless, something is wrong. Maybe you have the cable on the wrong hook and can’t adjust your firewall adjuster enough to take up the slack.

If you used a spring and not the cable to pull the fork up to the PP, there should be slack you need to take up with the pedal before the cable starts pulling on the fork.


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The spring is taking up the slack and pushing the fork out which keeps the pedal up. Obviously the real issue here is that this clutch does not have the same amount of travel (in and out) as the OEM clutch did... The pedal moves more than this OE clutch requires. The placement of the hook can't possibly be the issue. If the adjustment of the cable (like putting it on the wrong hook) was the issue you wouldn't be able to fully engage and/or fully disengage. The clutch is fully engaging and fully disengaging, just doesn't take as much movement as the OEM one did. The spring just takes up the slack.

Not a fan of the adjustable cable. Alot of issue seem to come from adjustable cables. I recommend OEM cable.

As stated above the cable is an FRPP (Ford) adjustable cable. Hopefully the FRPP cable holds up like the original one did. It looked to be same quality and bracket fitment were just like the original cable. Not too worried.

Ya man just order an OE cable. Have to trim the end a little to fit most firewall adjusters if I recall.


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There really wasn't much modification required of the FRPP cable, actually less modification then I would have had to do on the OEM cable. There is a rubber block that you just pull off of the cable end and then a light sanding of the four tiny tabs that were holding that rubber block in place.

The main thing here is that the OE clutch has less travel than the OEM clutch did. Personally I'd rather it not have less travel, but I've done many extended pulls since the clutch was put in last year and it is not slipping. We've also validated that it is fully disengaging which was my main concern. Impressive that the OEM and this OE clutch hold the 550-575wtq just fine.
 

hotcobra03

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Seriously it’s just a cable ,

Basic setup.


I didn’t want a firewall adjuster

Read a lot of issues?

I went with a single hook,

however heavy duty cable wasn’t long enough.

I simply cut rod and made my own which threads on and off

When I need adjustment I simply add a washer to end

pedal travel is easy and I do not need to have pedal against firewall to shift now

Have about 50k miles like this and haven’t had to adjust yet

guessing the heavy cable isn’t stretching like oem
 

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