charge Temps keep going high over 140 and car runs like crap then

UncleSAm

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Are you doing this with the killer chiller on? Could be cause the killer chiller is dumping tons of hot air in front of the radiator?

Is the condenser full of sand and debris? I remember pressure washing mine a bit ago and a ton of shit came out.
 

Banshee06

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I have tried with the Killer chiller on and off the condenser is brand new also trying to help with the cooling problem also new air conditioning pump. the killer chiller sits inside the bumper so it doesnt affect air flow or heat to radiator.
 

Stangra

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Are you doing this with the killer chiller on? Could be cause the killer chiller is dumping tons of hot air in front of the radiator?

I have tried with the Killer chiller on and off the condenser is brand new also trying to help with the cooling problem also new air conditioning pump. the killer chiller sits inside the bumper so it doesnt affect air flow or heat to radiator.
Your condenser is mounted in front of the radiator, yes? Your KC is using the condenser, yes? If so then the condenser IS dumping heat into the radiator when KC is running
 

UncleSAm

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I tried to find the thread but weren’t people talking About the KC dumping the hot air in front of the radiator, via the condenser the air was already saturated with heat it couldn’t pick up more.

Also what thermostate are you using?


But when was the last time you burped the engine coolant? And how did you burp it when you did the radiator?
 

SVTdreamin04

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I'll start out simple because I've seen someone do this before. The supercharger cooling circuit could have possibly been filled with straight non diluted antifreeze?

Also, I had an issue where I found foreign material in the cooling circuit on my car. The pump weeks randomly quit pumping. I have a hand pump that I use to force air out of the system. I would push fluid into the pump and it would take off then randomly quit again. I ended up finding the seal from an antifreeze jug lodged in the pump inlet as the culprit.


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Banshee06

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I have a 70 % water and 30% antifreeze in the system, the pump is always running I can see it running and it is a brand new pump too.
and you can see that it is flowing really good.
 

Banshee06

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My cooling system has been burped many many times and changed I currently am on my 5th thermostat a Reicsh 170.
 

Banshee06

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I have also tried running the car without the air conditioning o and No killer chiller in the circuit using only the brand new Afco dual flow heat exchanger.
 

MG0h3

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Ok I took my car out the other night.

93* at 11pm.

Didn’t run AC.

IAT2 was at 120 backing out of the garage fully warmed up.

Highest I saw was 160 at light cruise. Opening throttle 25% or more would drop it to mid 140s pretty quick. Once I got it up there it never really dropped below 155 at light or no throttle. This will always give you the highest reading outside of a really long pull.

ECT was 195 to 202.

Did multiple WOT blasts in 2nd and 3rd over about a 25min drive.

Never skipped a beat but I’m on E85 and not sure where the tuner pulls timing.


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hotcobra03

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Another odd thing I noticed on mine when running hot which you may not of experienced since you really don’t drive it.

Lose of coolant.

During a head issue.

I wasn’t really overheating if trips were short.

Anything over a 45 mins without a shutdown. I would overheat.

Local never knew anything.

During this my over flow tank was always full.

I did notice I could also add upto a half gallon without car running which you should not be able to.

Mine was a crack in cylinder 7.

I understand you had some kind of test done.

Which may not have came back negative being many changes already with coolant.

I may be one of the few. But I also added 2 tiny holes on tstat for air to pass or say in hopes of a air pocket not forming
 

Banshee06

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I also have a hole drilled into my Tstat that also didnt help. And my coolant is always full its not going anywhere I can add a few teaspoons once in a while that it.
The test they performed is to look for exhaust or gas residues in the coolant to see if there is a head gasket leak, This has been done my two shops and one radiator shop.
 

Banshee06

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Thanks the highest mine get is in the 150's so maybe thats okay?
Maybe the other problem with car cutting out erractic throttle response is my tune or something.
But earlier I noticed my bap was set to a low setting and then i turned is all the way up and it was running good and strong.
Now its seems like it is back to bad again.
 

bigmoose

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What are your fuel mods? Are you running a stock FPDM? I'm asking because in hot weather the trunk gets hot and driving a stock unit with a BAP will easily put it into thermal overload. My old setup did this. Solved with a modified FPDM until I went full return.
 

Banshee06

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I am stock other then the BAP, I figure I could be close to max and the pumps are now 17 years old.
But none of the Shops that have dyno tuned my car have ever said I need to do anything different.
How much would it be to go to a return system and modified FPDM's and possibly new fuel pumps.
I am current running 21 lbs boost on by KB 2.8 with 60 injectors and full length headers and a JLT High Boos CAI.
with NGK tr6 plugs gaped to 30
 

c6zhombre

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21psi and over 700 wheel on pump gas?!? That sounds outrageous, I'm surprised it still runs at all.

Your IAT2s are totally reasonable for that setup. Not sure on the engine coolant temp issues.....I would do another compression test and be as sure as possible you don't have a significant issue.
 

Banshee06

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I forgot to mention that when i am in boost "which since I have had these heating issues I dont do very often" and the problem with hesitations in acceleration when I do go into boost. I do also have Methanol injection into the throttle body when under boost.
 

SVTdreamin04

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I am stock other then the BAP, I figure I could be close to max and the pumps are now 17 years old.
But none of the Shops that have dyno tuned my car have ever said I need to do anything different.
How much would it be to go to a return system and modified FPDM's and possibly new fuel pumps.
I am current running 21 lbs boost on by KB 2.8 with 60 injectors and full length headers and a JLT High Boos CAI.
with NGK tr6 plugs gaped to 30

Im shocked youre getting away with a .030 gap at 21 psi.

Anyhow, does your car have a wideband on it? I would be curious to see what is going on fuel wise when your car starts to run bad.

When I first put my car back together after cams and a VMP, I had issues where my car would start to run like crap. This was on a 91 tune and full return setup. I found my fuel temps were thru the roof which was causing hesitation and the car to run warm. I went deadhead return and E85, which took care of my issue.

I know your car isn't set up like mine, but everything else mentioned checks out, let's focus on fueling here.



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Banshee06

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Yes I think the problem is probably fuel but I will probably have to wait till fall do get into a shop. they are all two months out around here and I can still drive it just cant get on it with the ways its running.
And what should my plugs be gaped at?
I do have a wideband guage but I always forget to look at it when it hesitates
 

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