Car stalls when staying clutched in

efnfast

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When the engine is cold, it drives fine.

When the engine is partially warmed up, it drives fine but at idle it surges +/-150ish rpm (doesn't do this when cold)

When the engine is fully warmed up, it drives fine but if I clutch in (at any speed) the RPMs drop to 800, then bounce between 800 and 500. If I clutch out it acts exactly as it should. If I remain clutched in (e.g., coming to a stop) RPMs then dip to 300, bounce between 300 and 500, then a few seconds later the car dies. It starts right up on the first turn of the key. No drivability problems, boost fine, everything is fine, shifting is fine, it's just if I stay clutched in the RPMs drop down to idle RPM, then dip lower, surge, then the car dies.

If I turn the car off, let it cool down for 10minutes, it's okay for a few minutes (temperature gauge is no longer indicating it's at full operating temps) then it begins surging again whenever I stay clutched in (starts once it reaches operating temp)

My datalogger says battery voltage is constant (13.x-14.x volts until it dies, then goes to 12.x), no trouble codes to read. I reset my tune back to stock and had the same problem (checked just incase it was tune related).

Reserach shows me IAC is a possible cause, but there are plenty of google links with the exact same symptoms who replace IAC, TPS, spark plugs, and still have it and eventually have to get it tuned out (which makes no sense because my tune is fine and has been rock solid ever since I got it, so if I had to tune it out, that would mean I'm just masking a problem)
 

Jomo1994z71

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Do a search for the "stall issue"
A competent tuner can fix this issue.
 

hotcobra03

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stall

When the engine is cold, it drives fine.

When the engine is partially warmed up, it drives fine but at idle it surges +/-150ish rpm (doesn't do this when cold)

When the engine is fully warmed up, it drives fine but if I clutch in (at any speed) the RPMs drop to 800, then bounce between 800 and 500. If I clutch out it acts exactly as it should. If I remain clutched in (e.g., coming to a stop) RPMs then dip to 300, bounce between 300 and 500, then a few seconds later the car dies. It starts right up on the first turn of the key. No drivability problems, boost fine, everything is fine, shifting is fine, it's just if I stay clutched in the RPMs drop down to idle RPM, then dip lower, surge, then the car dies.

If I turn the car off, let it cool down for 10minutes, it's okay for a few minutes (temperature gauge is no longer indicating it's at full operating temps) then it begins surging again whenever I stay clutched in (starts once it reaches operating temp)

My datalogger says battery voltage is constant (13.x-14.x volts until it dies, then goes to 12.x), no trouble codes to read. I reset my tune back to stock and had the same problem (checked just incase it was tune related).

Reserach shows me IAC is a possible cause, but there are plenty of google links with the exact same symptoms who replace IAC, TPS, spark plugs, and still have it and eventually have to get it tuned out (which makes no sense because my tune is fine and has been rock solid ever since I got it, so if I had to tune it out, that would mean I'm just masking a problem)

how many miles on car? is engine still stock if not what mods do you have

i have had problems like this many times..9out of 10 its air filter/maf needing cleaning...the 1 out of 10 will be vaccum leaks,

pcv valve and its tube are my first thoughts being no check engine light on
 

CobraBob

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how many miles on car? is engine still stock if not what mods do you have

i have had problems like this many times..9out of 10 its air filter/maf needing cleaning...the 1 out of 10 will be vaccum leaks,

pcv valve and its tube are my first thoughts being no check engine light on

These are what I'd recommend the OP checks as well. If he has been using a custom tune then the tune would be the least probable cause, unless it doesn't contain the anti-stall code (see stall-issue TSB). If the tune is the factory tune then it should be reflashed by Ford (which contains the anti-stall code).
 

efnfast

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Car has approximately 15,000miles on it. I have ~5000 miles on it since my tune. It was working perfectly up until 2 or 3 days ago. Mods are ported/pullied/k&n fipk2/magnfalow catback/magna catted x / tune

Is this stall tune issue (that tsb 15-74-2) something that can just develop overnight?

Air filter seems clean, but I'll check it and the MAF, as well as clean the IAC tonight.

Btw, stupid question - where is the pcv valve and tube located? :eek:
 
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hotcobra03

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wow thats like new

pcv valve is located on driverside valve cover unless its been altered

the tube goes around the back of blower than splits into 2,1 line goes under blower to lower intake and the other to back of blower,again unless altered

the stall issuse problem i would think would be in stock form,once tuned pcm would be rewritten?
 

Jimmysidecarr

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Car has approximately 15,000miles on it. I have ~5000 miles on it since my tune. It was working perfectly up until 2 or 3 days ago. Mods are ported/pullied/k&n fipk2/magnfalow catback/magna catted x / tune

Is this stall tune issue (that tsb 15-74-2) something that can just develop overnight?

Air filter seems clean, but I'll check it and the MAF, as well as clean the IAC tonight.

Btw, stupid question - where is the pcv valve and tube located? :eek:


Left valve cover near the back.

Clean your MAF, it's a high probability.
 

efnfast

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I'll do that. Btw, can a maf be cleaned with it on the car?

Only reason I ask is because I remember a friend cleaned his and had a bitch of a time afterwards because he didn't clock it the way it was initially installed (although I suppose that could easily be fixed by making alignment marks on it to ensure proper clocking....)
 

efnfast

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Fixed - the air cleaner had blown off and the 4 allen headed bolts that hold the maf to the bracket (k&n fipk2) were all loose - one was unthreaded all the way out minus 2 threads. No idea why all that stuff was loose though :shrug:
 

CobraBob

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That's great that you found the issue so quick. I was all but sure it wasn't your tune. Good work!
 

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