just installed a McLeod rst clutch, mcleod lightened steel flywheel and a ford racing pilot bearing. I used the clutch alignment tool so everything is aligne. When I go to install transmission it will not go in the last inch. Seems like something is hitting. The throwout bearing is not the issue because I can see alot of clearance. Also seems like the tranny Is sitting a little low so the holes aren't quite inline f
Can't get tranny in
- Thread starter Gixxerride04
- Start date
when I put my RXT in (same thing, just different friction material) I didnt realize how much slow there was with the alignment tool and didn't hold it centered well enough. This caused the discs to be on a slight angle and the input shaft would hit the pilot bearing, preventing it from seating. Replaced the bearing, re-aligned the discs and went right in for the most part. I do believe we pulled it up the last little bit by gently running the bolts in using a criss-cross pattern...we had the engine and trans out of the car so it was a lot easier
When I did my clutch we put the bolts to the tranny in finger tight and then one of us pulled the clutch fork well the other pushed the tranny in and it slid right in.
Another thing you can do with the plastic one is hold some pressure on it so it isn't "sagging" while you tighten a PP bolt or two.
Yes, the last inch is usually a little tough as you are hitting the pilot and then bumping up on the dowels at the same time.
Yes, the last inch is usually a little tough as you are hitting the pilot and then bumping up on the dowels at the same time.
Thanks for the advice! I'm gonna pull the clutch apart again and start over. I wish I had a steel shaft to use but I'll try putting a little pressure on the disks using the plastic one and see what happens
I had to re install the alignment tool a couple times, and move it around to adjust to position of the disks a little bit. Trans slid right in after wiggling it around a little bit. You shouldn't have to pull the clutch apart or anything like that. Definitely wouldn't recommend drawing the trans in with bolts as you risk damaging the clutch that way.
Thanks again for all the advice! The plastic alignment tool definitely sagged a bit so I had to wiggle it to line it up. Works now. I used the adjustable pivot ball stud and noticed that the throwout bearing is slightly touching the pressure plate fingers. I can spin the bearing by hand but there is a little drag. Should I increase the gap or leave it?
if thats with the cable not attached, you definitely need more. You need more space for the clutch fork to pivot as the discs wear
Isn't the RST single disc? Wasn't aware that they need the shortened ball.
You really need to clearance the front of the transmission for the RXT in order for the fork to move back far enough once the clutch starts wearing and the fingers move back.
You really need to clearance the front of the transmission for the RXT in order for the fork to move back far enough once the clutch starts wearing and the fingers move back.
Yeah the cable isn't installed yet and it is a dual disk. I first tried the stock pivot ball and there was probably 1/2" play, so I used the adjustable one to make it a little longer to bring the throwout bearing closer to the fingers. I will adjust it a little shorter now to give it some room
Longer? You want it shorter. And actually with a half inch of play you are good. The clutch fingers won't ever move that far back.
And just so were clear; cable is off and you can move the TOB back towards the transmission so there is a 1/2" gap between the fingers and TOB?
And just so were clear; cable is off and you can move the TOB back towards the transmission so there is a 1/2" gap between the fingers and TOB?
Longer? You want it shorter. And actually with a half inch of play you are good. The clutch fingers won't ever move that far back.
And just so were clear; cable is off and you can move the TOB back towards the transmission so there is a 1/2" gap between the fingers and TOB?
Yeah I meant shorter. Trying to type outside in the sun. Ha. Yeah with the stock pivot stud in and no cable hooked up the fork had about 1/2" of play away from the fingers. Looks like I could just put the stock one back in then. Wasn't sure of how much play there should be
And just so were clear; cable is off and you can move the TOB back towards the transmission so there is a 1/2" gap between the fingers and TOB?
Yeah I meant shorter. Trying to type outside in the sun. Ha. Yeah with the stock pivot stud in and no cable hooked up the fork had about 1/2" of play away from the fingers. Looks like I could just put the stock one back in then. Wasn't sure of how much play there should be
Ya man half is plenty. You can shorten it a little more if you're concerned about the high release point though.
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