camshaft install

mustangman36578

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2007
Messages
1,687
Location
new baltimore, michigan
im installing a larger cam on my buddys 95 cobra and had a few questions. im a lot more familiar with the modular engines than the 302 5.0L and was wondering what bolts/gaskets need to be replaced. is the crank bolt and camshaft bolt torque to yield or is it ok to reinstall the same bolt? also for the timing chain cover and valve cover gaskets will rtv be fine or should he find replacement gaskets? he will be using new intake gaskets. last question is for removing the lifters can you reach them or do you need to use a magnetic stick to reach them? i will be measuring the cam bearings and lifter bores with a dial bore guage and the new cam and the lifters with a micrometer to make sure everything is in spec. but do you guys recommend replacing anything else? also do you guys recommend using a heavy weight oil or moly engine assembly lube for the cam journals and lobes, push rods, lifters, timing chain, gears, and rocker arms? i was thinking assembly lube on the journals, lobes, and distributor gear and then a heavy weight oil on everything else. thanks.
 
Last edited:

MFE

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2005
Messages
2,236
Location
Phoenix
For the valve cover gaskets, hands down get the Fel-Pro perma-dry FEL-VS13264T . They last forever and he can take the covers off a million times and the gaskets will never leak. You can re-use the crank and cam bolts. You'll want to replace the valve springs. If you're not replacing the lifters you can leave the lower intake in place and use magnets like Anderson sells to hold them up. Otherwise, you can reach them with a typical lifter removal tool.
 

noahsark2012

4V 500rwhp club
Established Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2009
Messages
1,080
Location
USA
im installing a larger cam on my buddys 95 cobra and had a few questions. im a lot more familiar with the modular engines than the 302 5.0L and was wondering what bolts/gaskets need to be replaced. is the crank bolt and camshaft bolt torque to yield or is it ok to reinstall the same bolt? also for the timing chain cover and valve cover gaskets will rtv be fine or should he find replacement gaskets? he will be using new intake gaskets. last question is for removing the lifters can you reach them or do you need to use a magnetic stick to reach them? i will be measuring the cam bearings and lifter bores with a dial bore guage and the new cam and the lifters with a micrometer to make sure everything is in spec. but do you guys recommend replacing anything else? also do you guys recommend using a heavy weight oil or moly engine assembly lube for the cam journals and lobes, push rods, lifters, timing chain, gears, and rocker arms? i was thinking assembly lube on the journals, lobes, and distributor gear and then a heavy weight oil on everything else. thanks.

he will need replacment gaskets. they are $9.99 for the timing chain cover gasket, front main seal, front oil pan lip seals, and the water pump seals from O'Reilly's (Fel-Pro gaskets). he can take a bottle of brake quiet, and lightly spray the back of the gaskets and let them tack up and get sticky and then install everything.
 

mustangman36578

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2007
Messages
1,687
Location
new baltimore, michigan
for the cam he is going with he spoke to the manufacturer and they said he can use the stock springs. intake is already off of the engine because we will be installing an aftermarket intake. are the lifters pretty much right there and able to reach with my hands after the intake is off? for installing the new front main seal do i need the special alignment tool for it or is there a trick to putting it in where you can use something else. i know for the modular engines you can just put it in place then take a block of wood and lightly tap it until it is set in the timing cover. thanks again for all your help.
 

MFE

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2005
Messages
2,236
Location
Phoenix
Trust me, brother, he is wasting his money and your time installing anything but a stock cam with the stock springs. Unless he thinks that thrashing noise from valve float right when he gets into its powerband is cool.
 

MFE

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2005
Messages
2,236
Location
Phoenix
I forgot you were dealing with a Cobra, which should have better springs on it to begin with, so maybe they'll be OK, but since I don't have the spring specs or the cam specs handy, you'll have to do some digging.

As for removing the heads, you don't have to if you have compressed air and a fitting for the spark plug hole, you can use the compressed air to hold the valves closed while you change the springs after you bring that cylinder to TDC. It can be a PITA to do because you have to whack the retainers pretty sharply with a hammer and a socket to knock the keepers loose, and you will lose a few of the keepers so it's good to have some on hand. They're cheap though, and also iron, so they're fetch-able with a magnet ;)

It's not the most fun job in the world but the thing is, the stock springs might not run into coil bind with any given cam if the lift specs aren't radical, but that doesn't mean they'll control the valves well when you're talking increased lift and/or sharper ramp-rates.
 

mustangman36578

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2007
Messages
1,687
Location
new baltimore, michigan
alright thanks. yea i think that i have heard of people using the compressed air method before. i will find out what his cam lift is and go from there as to if the springs should be replaced and i will run it by him to see if he wants to replace them.
 

MFE

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2005
Messages
2,236
Location
Phoenix
It's not just about lift, you need to watch seat pressure too
 

Derek@Amazon

RTCTTFMF!!!
Established Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2003
Messages
12,927
Location
Hazzard County Maryland
have fun with the front main seal... it sucks!

the old oil pan gasket needs cut at the block and the new timing chain set will have the replacement tabs that go where you cut. mine needed trimmed then put a thick bead of RTV in the corner between the block oil pan and timing cover.
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top