Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Pics and Videos Buffet' started by sonicmach1, Dec 22, 2009.
More to come...
This is my post front suspension project - 3.2L Mammoth liquid cooled:
I have already taken the blower apart in order to powder coat the discharge plate, bypass tubes, inlet plenum, t-body adapter and pre t-body intake tube.
And so the crossmember replacement finally begins.
Also getting installed are:
Maximum Motorsports A-arms, end links, bump steer kit, coil overs, and bushings
OEM engine mounts, wheel hubs, Ford mini starter
Looks outstanding. I've been viewing this thread ever since it first started. One of my favorite builds on SVTP. Attention to detail is unreal.
I want your car if you ever sell, outstanding.
I second that
Thanks for the compliments. I enjoy doing the work as much as sharing it with others.
If I tried to sell it, I would never get the value out of it!
More prep work.
Painting the new engine mounts high temp black.
Cleaning the front hub and spindles. I will be painting them and installing new hubs.
(I would love to powder coat these too, but our local shop is backed up with work.)
Baking the high temp paint on the new engine mounts.
Front Spindle Cleaning - Prep for painting
Hubs are being replaced with new parts
Spindle After the Metal Zinc Prep
Ignore the spindle shaft look - It will be polished with 3000 grit wet sandpaper before I put the hub back on.
Next up - painting the spindles.
I coated the spindles and center brake rotors in the black POR-15. Another POR-15 coat tonight then an aluminum color topcoat for the rotors and a black for the brake centers. (You cannot leave POR-15 without a topcoat as it reacts with UV)
Brake Rotor Before
Final POR15 Topcoat in Cast Aluminum
New Bolts, Nuts, Washers! All class 10.9, Zinc Coated
Your attention to detail is amazing. Love following this thread, please keep the updates coming.
Awesome build coverage! I love attention to detail and corroded parts also drives me bonkers!
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
Update. 95F and 105+ Heat index. Not a fun weekend to be out in the garage.
The crossmember is out. Pretty easy to drop it after you support the trans and engine correctly.
The new one looks much nicer. I will get weight measurements for both soon.
Motor mounts getting removed and new OEM ones reinstalled.
I will of course sand off any ground boss areas and will probably do some POR15 painting on any rust areas.
Heads = -DA version on the driver's side.
Are those little stock manifolds just asking to be replaced by headers?! It has been awhile since I looked at a 4.6L 4V engine out of a car, but those are smaller than I expected.
I could go ahead an order some long tubes and adapter to my catback exhaust for the extra $$$ and extra downtime. Not sure I want to bust a stud and have it down for more of the summer though.
More to come soon.
More detail work.
Cleaning and Painting the Engine Mounts and Heat Shields
Wire wheeled, metal etched, primed, and painted
Cleaning and Painting the Engine Block (After vs. Before)
Stock vs. New Ford Racing Mini Starter
124 oz vs. 103 oz.
I've been meaning to pick up one of those mini starters for the red marauder at some point, figure it wouldn't hurt replacing the original starter before it goes out.
Also, in regards to the manifold studs, when I swapped a 130k mile Aviator engine into the black marauder, that engine came from western Pennsylvania and was covered in salt. The manifolds and studs were WAY more rusted than yours and I got every single one out without breaking any. I used a liberal amount of heat on the stud before putting a wrench on it and they all came out no problem.
It's worth trying, your car really needs LT's if you're going to put a 3.2L kenne bell on there.
Thanks for the reply! Yes I have no worries about removing the manifolds.
I think I'm going ahead with the stock manifolds for now. I'd order the ARH ones then have to polish or ceramic coat, then ..... And it will be 2 more months.
It was not hard to remove the crossmember thanks to my lift so maybe this winter (when I'll install the 3.2L) or next year after some drive time.
I have to do the clutch anyway!
I just found out I need neck surgery (fun) so I want to get this driveable soon.
Well more updates - assembly time now.
I got a good deal on a set of Magnaflow shorty headers, 1-3/4" tubes, with ceramic coating. They probably are not much different in power vs. the stock log manifolds, but they look nice and probably sound a little different.
I need to do a port overlay and see how the tubular circle ports compare with the oval (D-shaped) stock ports. So I am not sure if I will keep them or go back to stock.
On the plus side, the header nuts came loose with very little wrench force! I was shocked by how easily they unbolted. Low mileage, no rain driving really paid off there.
I have my last order of new fasteners to use now too.