Oh yeah, definitely going to upgrade the timing gear. I talked with VMP about 6 months ago when I initially looking to start the supercharger process and he told me both the oil pump and crank gears are a good idea to upgrade
Buying VMP stage 2, anything I'm missing?
- Thread starter calebdnehus
- Start date
Oh yeah, definitely going to upgrade the timing gear. I talked with VMP about 6 months ago when I initially looking to start the supercharger process and he told me both the oil pump and crank gears are a good idea to upgrade
Did they tell you "not to" or you didn't need to? If "not to" did they say why?
Dang man, you have your car done almost exactly the way I want mine cosmetically. I have the same exact color and I'm trying to run that style grille but keep my grille lights as well. I'm also going to get that spoiler at some point too. And I love the way those tires look, makes the car look pretty damn mean. I think once you get it lowered its gonna look even more bad ass
You can retain the upper fogs but you'll need the relocation brackets that's on eBay. I found a picture of one Stang with the CDC upper n fogs, let me see if I can find it.
[h=3]Mike's Rousch tuned my VMP supercharger kit on 4/1/2016 with the JLT Intake and it runs flawlessly! [/h]
Found this on AM website for the cervinis upper grille.
Yeah thats the one I saw. I've been trying to google to figure out how he set it up that way. You said it was just a relocation bracket off ebay? Thats the exact grille I plan to go with since it has that mesh in there to try and catch crap before it rams into the radiator fins. I'm pretty sure I saw that bracket your talking about just the other day
I asked them about it in a e-mail, they e-mailed me back this
Attachments
im selling my kenne bell with ice tank vmp triple pass heat exchanger id1000s and long tube headers. pm me if interested
Why not Justin from VMP?
I'm running 13# of boost I make 676 to the tire, and my car has had zero issues in almost 4 years. (Procharger ) I'm switching to 105 octane as insurance. I think longevity is based largely on the tune.
Thats the majority the answer I've been getting through research and asking questions myself. Seems to be you can 8-13/14psi as long as you arent pushing the limits in the tune and on the fuel youre using as well as not banging the rev limiter every chance you get. I figure on running 10ish to start with and having AED set me up with what Shaun thinks is a good powerful "safe" tune and limiting my high rpm shifts to probably 6500rpm for longevity reason until I can forge the rotating assembly
In terms of future additions to my car to insure the motor survives a good long while, does anyone have an opinion of this rod/piston/bearing/ring combo?
http://www.modularheadshop.com/pistonsnrods/13310.aspx
I know the GT has a forged steel crankshaft so an entire rotating assembly isnt necessarily needed, however getting a kit like that may save time and money vs the route I've looked into which will require the crank be re-balanced with the new pistons/rods. The only other thing thats on my mind is the strength of the main bearings, I know the coyote block(only) is SAID to withstand up to 1000HP. I'm leaning more toward dropping a couple grand, 2-3k, and forging the motor and then getting the VMP and maxing it out as opposed to running it mild on the stock engine.
Thoughts anyone?
http://www.modularheadshop.com/pistonsnrods/13310.aspx
I know the GT has a forged steel crankshaft so an entire rotating assembly isnt necessarily needed, however getting a kit like that may save time and money vs the route I've looked into which will require the crank be re-balanced with the new pistons/rods. The only other thing thats on my mind is the strength of the main bearings, I know the coyote block(only) is SAID to withstand up to 1000HP. I'm leaning more toward dropping a couple grand, 2-3k, and forging the motor and then getting the VMP and maxing it out as opposed to running it mild on the stock engine.
Thoughts anyone?
And of course, forged parts money will come out of the supercharger fund so if that route is taken I will be pushing the supercharger on down the road a bit until I have enough saved up again
I would just get the supercharger on a safe tune and save the money for a forged block. With a good tune you will get years out of the stock block.
You mean like a forged short block? Internals and all together?
Yes, I think it's easier. You can get a forged short block for a reasonable cost $5k or so.
Yeah that's what I've been seeing so far, about 5k for the short. Do people kormal let just put their GT heads and what not on the new short block?
Yes, everything will bolt right up. The other alternative is to go with a built longblock which will allow you to sell your old longblock.
Users who are viewing this thread
