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SVT Shelby GT500
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<blockquote data-quote="Catmonkey" data-source="post: 16028438" data-attributes="member: 124025"><p>Much of what you do depends on how you intend to use the car. A built engine shouldn't be that much different than a stock engine, just better components. But then my concept of a built engine has more to do with a bulletproof bottom end than airflow modifications and cam selection. Most built engines end up being race builds which usually have looser clearances and more aggressive cam timing. Nothing wrong with that, but there are trades offs driving a racing engine on the street. When you start turning up the wick with more aggressive cam timing, you really need to upgrade a lot of the cam drive components, if you want it to be reliable. It gets expensive fast. If you want reliability, I'd stick with the stock cam and valve springs or possibly a very mild cam upgrade that is capable of using the stock springs. My cams are not that bodacious, but it still only idles with 12 hg of vacuum with 44 degrees of overlap at the valve. </p><p></p><p>The gearing for these cars was intended to work with very mild camshafts. The top gears are intended for pretty low revs, which will give an aggressive camshaft fits. Not a big issue if you travel fairly level highways, but if you contend with a lot of grades, you may be working that shifter between fifth and sixth more than others in the plains. Even in mild form, these engines are capable of making more horsepower and torque than you can harness anyway. If you're looking for a true driver, keeping the valve train close to stock and doing other mods that improve air flow, like porting the lower manifold, a better supercharger and fuel mods. Even the stock pistons are good pieces, but the rods are the real weak sauce in the bottom end.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Catmonkey, post: 16028438, member: 124025"] Much of what you do depends on how you intend to use the car. A built engine shouldn't be that much different than a stock engine, just better components. But then my concept of a built engine has more to do with a bulletproof bottom end than airflow modifications and cam selection. Most built engines end up being race builds which usually have looser clearances and more aggressive cam timing. Nothing wrong with that, but there are trades offs driving a racing engine on the street. When you start turning up the wick with more aggressive cam timing, you really need to upgrade a lot of the cam drive components, if you want it to be reliable. It gets expensive fast. If you want reliability, I'd stick with the stock cam and valve springs or possibly a very mild cam upgrade that is capable of using the stock springs. My cams are not that bodacious, but it still only idles with 12 hg of vacuum with 44 degrees of overlap at the valve. The gearing for these cars was intended to work with very mild camshafts. The top gears are intended for pretty low revs, which will give an aggressive camshaft fits. Not a big issue if you travel fairly level highways, but if you contend with a lot of grades, you may be working that shifter between fifth and sixth more than others in the plains. Even in mild form, these engines are capable of making more horsepower and torque than you can harness anyway. If you're looking for a true driver, keeping the valve train close to stock and doing other mods that improve air flow, like porting the lower manifold, a better supercharger and fuel mods. Even the stock pistons are good pieces, but the rods are the real weak sauce in the bottom end. [/QUOTE]
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