Built engine time.

Cobra Therapy

Cobra Therapy

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S1975.8 said:
Yes sir, L&M sleeved block, Manley rods, Diamond ceramic coated pistons, king bearings, total seal rings, L&M cams. Fore triple pump system, ID1300, 3L gen5 whipple, whipple 132mm throttle body, 10% lower, E85
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I forgot to order my vmp intercooler pump.Are you running that or something else?
 
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layzie

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Correct me if I am wrong here. But once you break 750 rwhp on these 13/14's the traction goes right out the window uness you put in solid suspension components that make the car feel like total crap on the street. Clunk clink clank.
 
biminiLX

biminiLX

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layzie said:
Correct me if I am wrong here. But once you break 750 rwhp on these 13/14's the traction goes right out the window uness you put in solid suspension components that make the car feel like total crap on the street. Clunk clink clank.
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Or just run drag radials and try it first. Good time actually.
-J
 
Cobra Therapy

Cobra Therapy

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S1975.8 said:
Vmp & vmp exchanger and dual fans.

Suspension is being installed now, full bmr rear setup with Viking double adjustable shocks. Run 305/45r17 et street r

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Nice,im going with Maximum Motorsports road and track box kit.295/30/20,and 325/30/20 out back.
 
1quickvert

1quickvert

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dale.baker said:
This is exactly the same bottom end JDM put in my engine. Notice no main studs due to their experience with new stock bolts being able to withstand 1400HP maximum without incident on their Super Stock cars. Also no head studs are used as their belief is that it is much cheaper if you have a head gasket compromised to let the head lift, thus drastically increasing the likelihood of saving both the block and heads after a mishap. Lastly I use the 10mm timing chain components because they are more robust and stronger than the stock 8mm parts and should prove to be more reliable in the long term. The 10mm components do require the use of 2003/2004 Cobra Mustang valve covers with a few small welded modifications. These were quite plentiful in 2015 but I do not know their availability currently? My engine produced 806WHP with 12* of timing at 7600 RPM on the stock blower and fuel system. The air in December 2015 was very cold when we dyno tuned my car at JDM and I was at 11.8:1 air to fuel ratio on the stock components and decided we met our goal of 800WHP and to not pursue adding an additional return style fuel systems at this point. You will be very satisfied with JDM at the end of the process of building your engine. I strongly recommend Jim SR. to do the tuning after you install and break the engine in properly. Who else gives a one year guarantee on this type of engine build (provided you do not detonate it by running the engine lean). This is why almost six years later I have no complaints about my decision to have them build and tune my new engine. If I can help you in any way please reach out to me. Lastly Bimini (Jay) has taken the JDM basic build to another level and is a great resource of knowledge on the forum. He and I built our engines about the same time frame.
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I am looking into the 10mm kit on my L&M rebuild. What modifications did you make to the 2004 Cobra valve covers? I have a 2013 GT500.
 
biminiLX

biminiLX

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1quickvert said:
I am looking into the 10mm kit on my L&M rebuild. What modifications did you make to the 2004 Cobra valve covers? I have a 2013 GT500.
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Valve cover differences can be seen with some regular google pics when on the ‘03-04 Cobra, ‘05-06 GT and ‘07-12 GT500.
Basically the Cobra/GT500 is opposite just like the TB/CAI side which then means oil fill is passenger on GT500 and driver side on Cobra.
Welding on AN bungs is the easiest solution to run catch cans and fill thru AN fitting (go -16 or -20).
I still run stock ‘13-14 8mm primary chains but once you start pushing over 1000hp the 10mm primary chains are a good investment.
I’m not worried at 1100rwhp but whenever a refresh happens I’ll upgrade the primary chains (as well as other upgrades).
-J
 
Catmonkey

Catmonkey

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I'm still running the stock primary chains and sprockets too, but they have been REM polished, cryogenically treated and Micro Blued (friction reduction). This make these powered metal primary cam sprockets stronger than stock. L&M and others still have Cloyes billet secondary sprockets and are the same on all the DOHC (except Coyote). I'd highly recommend spending the money to get those. Retrofitting 10mm valve covers and making the stock EGR system function is not an easy undertaking, but it can be done. It's not so much a horsepower threshold but how aggressive the ramps are on your camshaft and how much spring pressure you're running. Stock cams are very mild. NSR cams usually have slower ramps than those requiring upgraded valve springs. Billet tensioners for the secondary chains are a worthy upgrade as well.
 

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