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Builds with stock Manley rods?

Discussion in 'Engine/Tuning' started by Shamwoww88, Mar 19, 2019.

  1. Shamwoww88

    Shamwoww88 Member Established Member

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    Just wanted some insight on people who are making some big numbers with the factory Manley rods. I plan on switching to turbo, goal is 1000whp. I'm asking just because there doesn't seem to be a definitive answer in whether they will hold up. And I would like to keep the cost down and try to keep as much terminator as possible with the build. Some say yes, there's build with 900hp on stock bottom ends, depends on tune etc etc. Obviously the pistons will have to be upgraded since they seem to be the weak part. I plan on keeping the stock iron block and just refreshing my heads. Any insight or experience is much appreciated thanks!!
     
  2. Weather Man

    Weather Man Persistance Is A Bitch Established Member

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    Upgrade wrist pins for sure.
     
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  3. 03' White Snake

    03' White Snake Well-Known Member Established Member

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    I'm running stock rods, H13 wrist pins, calico coated bearings on my setup. Currently making just shy of 800 at 22 psi.
     
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  4. Shamwoww88

    Shamwoww88 Member Established Member

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    Nice what pistons? I was leaning towards wiseco only because I've used them before in different cars and had good results.
     
  5. Shamwoww88

    Shamwoww88 Member Established Member

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    Oh and did you buy new factory rods? Or just stick with your originals? I know the last owner beat on the car quite a bit, so I'm leaning towards replacing, but I won't really know what's really fatigued internally until the motor is torn down.
     
  6. 01blckcobra

    01blckcobra Active Member Established Member

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    Never had an issue with stock wrist pins or rods. Don't think I've ever heard of a rod failure. Tubros are not going to be as violent in the beginning as a blower. I've pushed 600 to 800ish on stock long block. Only problems i experienced was- breaking cam bolts, oil pumps, valve float, lifted head gaskets, and broke timing chains. About it. never had a piston, crank, rods problem..

    Don't really see the need for h11/h13 wrist pins, or billet robs, unless you're planning on crazy sh**. 1500hp or more.

    Decent set of piston and you'll be fine. CP, Diamond would be my choices.
     
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  7. Zemedici

    Zemedici Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Let me ask this

    Are you prepared for a blown motor?

    If no, build the motor now.

    Rebuilds are much more expensive than builds.
     
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  8. 01blckcobra

    01blckcobra Active Member Established Member

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    About $6500 if you plan on building yourself with stock cams. Will take your 1000whp all day long
     
  9. Shamwoww88

    Shamwoww88 Member Established Member

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    Def agreed, been through that. I wouldn't say I'm prepared, as in I don't have another motor sitting around to swap out. But if it did blow I would just get another car to drive for the time being. The car is my daily right now, so I baby it. Just the few bolt-ons and tune right now is satisfying for the time being.

    I was just asking the question because searching this topic is like 0 to 100 lol. Some guys say 600, some say 900+ with the stock rods. I mean it really doesn't matter people have blown up full built motors, if the tune is wrong or the wrong tolerances. Just wandering if there's a pretty consistent number anyone has seen rod failures for our cars. Just FEI if there is anyone like me who wants to keep their terminator as much terminator as possible.

    I'm not upgrading above the eaton until I rebuild, and it turns into my every once in a while car lol.
     
  10. Zemedici

    Zemedici Well-Known Member Established Member

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    From someone who works in the industry, i wouldn’t push my daily / stock bottom end car over 700-750 wheel hp on corn.

    My 03 had a 2.3 whipple and made 600+ and was a RIOT to drive on the street.

    You wanting turbo for the power potential? I would just blower swap it, make 600whp on corn, and see if you truly want to go down the rabbit hole that is 4 digit power. Shit stacks up QUICK.

    Built Engine
    Fuel system
    Rear end / axles
    Clutch / input shaft
    Wheels / tires

    All stuff to keep in mind. Could hit $15-20k without the power adder
     
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  11. DSG2003Mach1

    DSG2003Mach1 Well-Known Member Premium Member Established Member

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    part of the difference in what you're seeing for power may involve the fact that some put ARP2000 rod bolts in and some didn't. My motor was built with ~25 psi in mind for a centri which would probably end up in the 900s range, we put ARP 2000 bolts in the terminator rods with a Diamond piston

    If you were going to replace the stock terminator rods I just cant see putting money towards another stock set, I would definitely upgrade at that point.
     
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  12. GodStang

    GodStang Well-Known Member Established Member

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    There are guys that "claim" 1400+ rwhp on stock bottom end. Would I do it? No. If I was replacing pistons I would go ahead and do the rods then while I was at it as they are really not that expensive. The stock rods will last until they don't.
     
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  13. 01blckcobra

    01blckcobra Active Member Established Member

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    Any one ever have the 8740 fail? I never did or heard about it. Ran them all the way up to over 800 without issues.
     
  14. MG0h3

    MG0h3 Well-Known Member Premium Member Established Member

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    @badcobra

    He snapped a factory rod I believe


    Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
     
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  15. Shamwoww88

    Shamwoww88 Member Established Member

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    Yea that's alot for a daily, and more than what I would do for a daily. When the car gets rebuilt it will just be a weekend, take to the track and car meet every once in a while car. I've driven my full built cars daily and now that I'm getting older I'm over it lol. Mostly imports (Honda, VW, Nissan, Subaru). I wanted a change from the younger crowd and something more timeless that I can appreciate no matter how old I get lol.

    Yea that's a good point, I did read that I planned on switching to ARP fasteners while I'm in it. And another good point about the $$
     
  16. 01blckcobra

    01blckcobra Active Member Established Member

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    No kidding.. Well damn.. Surprising, can't count how many times i've smashed valves into piston. Never and issue. Let I break a cam bolt at 2500 rpms starting a pull..... Or grenade a billet oil pump...
     
  17. 01blckcobra

    01blckcobra Active Member Established Member

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    molnar power adder rods Diamonds or CP coated pistons. upgrade valve springs, be a good start.
     
  18. DSG2003Mach1

    DSG2003Mach1 Well-Known Member Premium Member Established Member

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    Maybe things have improved but I saw where a couple of builders weren’t happy with some quality issues on Molnar stuff.I don’t recall the details
     
  19. Shamwoww88

    Shamwoww88 Member Established Member

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    I didn't see a thread about it in his profile, maybe he'll chime in. But yea I really haven't found too man people where the rods have actually failed.
     
  20. badcobra

    badcobra It's Fast Established Member

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    I did break a factory rod in 2016. If you are building a new engine for 4 digit power, sell your Manley's and get the Molnar rods.
     
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