Nice work but still hard to tell... For me at least.
My best guess is GT and NOT Boss rods based on the first pic.
Thanks for sharing!
My best guess is GT and NOT Boss rods based on the first pic.
Thanks for sharing!
Build date for 14's that might have 15 engine parts?
- Thread starter TrackpackGT
- Start date
Looks like your pistons definitely don't have that "net" pattern on the inside like mine do. All the pictures are up on my flickr page. Instead of taking up a buunnnnncchhh of room here, here is the link. If anyone is having trouble viewing them, please let me know. I uploaded every picture I had, not all of them are pretty, but I don't feel that there was a key angle that I missed.
All 20+ pictures: https://flic.kr/ps/2YvyTG
Is the difference between the coyote and boss rod purely metal composition?
Any engine builders wanna chime in on the differences?
All 20+ pictures: https://flic.kr/ps/2YvyTG
Is the difference between the coyote and boss rod purely metal composition?
Any engine builders wanna chime in on the differences?
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Not correct. The difference in the rods is EASILY identifiable to the naked eye. There is much more beef in the I beam section of the Boss rod versus the standard GT rod. Very much easy to see with the naked eye.
See below.
Again... rods in question appear to be GT rods.
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just looked at ALL of your pics... great work and thank you for doing this! Many of us have been wondering for quite a while.
I may have missed it but what is your engine code and when was the car built?--Edit I just saw your motor has July 17th stamped on it..
Interesting because my motor also has engine code EG397AA and I bought my car in February. To make it even more confusing, my EG397AA motor has the early style heads and I think you said yours has late ('15) style castings..
Motor looks GREAT by the way!
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It is most definite a regular GT rod based on those pictures. Also the rods from the road runner usually have an R stamped at the end at least the boss motor I recently took apart did on all the rods. The regular GT rod has a C at the end of the stamp like the pictures above show.
Thanks for the replies guys! I also now feel that they are GT rods. I don't think it will matter since the motor is going in a car that weighs under 2300lb's, I will never want to get anywhere near 600 rwhp. +5 hp for '15 heads though 
. The new moroso pan went on without a hitch. I guess now we can conclude that the EG397AA Engine Code is the turning point. I'm not sure about the 7/17/14 production date, that was simply what was on the label of the FRPP box that the motor arrived in.
. The new moroso pan went on without a hitch. I guess now we can conclude that the EG397AA Engine Code is the turning point. I'm not sure about the 7/17/14 production date, that was simply what was on the label of the FRPP box that the motor arrived in.
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My car has a June 20 build date and engine code 397
The curiosities
The curiosities
Turns out all of these motors do have production dates on them. It's on the sticker on the driver's side valve cover, just below the barcode.
XXXXX DDMMYYXXXX.
My motor was made on June 13, 2014
Looking back through the thread, the car build dates do differ from the engine build dates so I bet we could come close to narrowing down the 14/15 head date change if everyone came back and responded with the date on the motor just below the bar code on the driver's side valve cover.
XXXXX DDMMYYXXXX.
My motor was made on June 13, 2014
Looking back through the thread, the car build dates do differ from the engine build dates so I bet we could come close to narrowing down the 14/15 head date change if everyone came back and responded with the date on the motor just below the bar code on the driver's side valve cover.
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^ Based on this mine has a 2/26/14 engine build date and as posted before I have what appears to be 15 heads and the 3 bolt water pump.
So even if Ford didn't include the upgraded rotating assembly, it seems to me that if our motors really do have the 15 heads, that they would have to have the 15's intake valves and the Boss' sodium filled exhaust valves to match the ports in the heads. Then valve springs, cams, etc are a whole different subject.
Is there a way from Ford that we can see what parts went into our engines based off of the engine build tag on the valve cover? Or is someone willing to tear into their heads (not me) and post what you find?
So even if Ford didn't include the upgraded rotating assembly, it seems to me that if our motors really do have the 15 heads, that they would have to have the 15's intake valves and the Boss' sodium filled exhaust valves to match the ports in the heads. Then valve springs, cams, etc are a whole different subject.
Is there a way from Ford that we can see what parts went into our engines based off of the engine build tag on the valve cover? Or is someone willing to tear into their heads (not me) and post what you find?
I don't think there is ANY difference in the head other than the intake flange. My car has the new style on the passenger side and the old style on the driver side.... March 26/14 engine date.
Anymore updates on this or has anyone else looked into it?
I have confirmed with my own engine (and my own 2 eyes) that in fact the heads are 2015-style and the pistons/rods are 2014. Unfortunately the late 2014 guys didn't get the upgraded boss rods in their motors but we did get the better flowing heads which is a plus. The stock 2014 coyote motor is still good for an 8 second ET though so all is not lost
Interesting. Any info on cams by chance? That is what I really want to find out
I have confirmed with my own engine (and my own 2 eyes) that in fact the heads are 2015-style and the pistons/rods are 2014. Unfortunately the late 2014 guys didn't get the upgraded boss rods in their motors but we did get the better flowing heads which is a plus. The stock 2014 coyote motor is still good for an 8 second ET though so all is not lost
Just wondering. People compare the boss rods to the stock gt rods constantly. Question is has anyone actually broken a stock coyote rod? I searched the internet and could not find any. Just one that broke and it happened to be a boss motor. Even in FI applications up to 650whp or even more I could not find one with a broken connecting rod. Understandably if going for 700+who forged internals would be smart and necessary but the boss rods are not true forgings like manley or oliver rods so maybe they will handle a little more than a stock gt but if going for high HP I feel even those would need to be upgraded. Just don't see why everyone worries about the rods if nobody can find an incident of them breaking at any reasonable power level.
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There have been plenty of stock rod failures. I've seen them fail in relatively mildly modded cars and higher horsepower forced induction cars.
With good fuel and a good tune, the stock rods will last awhile on higher powered builds for sure. There are a lot of variables though.
With good fuel and a good tune, the stock rods will last awhile on higher powered builds for sure. There are a lot of variables though.
Same, they fail and its no secret.
It may not be a secret but I have a hard time believing that people go on forums to complain about every little noise and tick they hear coming from their car yet I can't find anyone who posted that they broke a connecting rod in a coyote. Found one which was a heavily modded car with boost and one other which was from an early number 8 piston failure which threw the rod. Other than that where are all these failures on otherwise stock or even FI cars with reasonable boost and a good tune. Just can't believe nobody posts about it. The sell Roush Stage 3's, Steeda Q650's, Saleens, all with blowers and they all have the stock coyote rods unless you get a Roush aluminator. All are sold with warranties and I can't find one of them that ever broke a rod. Companies like edelbrock, vortech, Roush even offer powertrain warranties with their blowers at reasonable boost levels. None of them require you to change rods in order to have the warranty.
^ Apparently you are not searching the site or Google with the correct "wording".
Because numerous members here have broken rods and tossed them out the side of the block.
I've seen stock motors snap a rod, lightly modded snap a rod, and plenty of FI cars with good tunes snapping rods. It's not going to happen to everyone, but it does happen. Hell the MT82 has shit for a reputation however mine has treated me fairly well, even being twin turbo.
Side note on the warranty w/ Roush, they charge you out the ass upfront and the tunes are on the safe side. You would be surprised at what the copperhead ECU can control.....limiting many things.
Because numerous members here have broken rods and tossed them out the side of the block.
I've seen stock motors snap a rod, lightly modded snap a rod, and plenty of FI cars with good tunes snapping rods. It's not going to happen to everyone, but it does happen. Hell the MT82 has shit for a reputation however mine has treated me fairly well, even being twin turbo.
Side note on the warranty w/ Roush, they charge you out the ass upfront and the tunes are on the safe side. You would be surprised at what the copperhead ECU can control.....limiting many things.
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