Broken crank bolt extraction

[captthunderpnts]

No point in trying to balance the crank unless your planning to pull your heads and take the entire rotating assembly in for balancing.

Anyone know if the 4.6 2v motors were balanced by ford originally?

So would it be safe to just drop the new crank and bearings is out of the box and run it? From what I understand, the one I'm looking at was already turned .020 under, and it was balanced for stock Terminator internals. Not sure how much variance there is. Or should I work on just finding one from a 96-01 and having it turned?

 

[caveeagle]

So would it be safe to just drop the new crank and bearings is out of the box and run it? From what I understand, the one I'm looking at was already turned .020 under, and it was balanced for stock Terminator internals. Not sure how much variance there is. Or should I work on just finding one from a 96-01 and having it turned?

I would be shooting for a stock replacement. Is that Terminator crank the correct bolt pattern for your flywheel (or flexplate)?

I am not sure if the Terminator motors are balanced differently or not.

Many motors come stock without a custom balance. In the previous post, I asked the group if a stock 4.6 2v was balanced by Ford? Even if it was, I might risk going with a good used crank and just bolting it in. If your not running a high RPM application, I doubt it wil be an issue.

 

[captthunderpnts]

I would be shooting for a stock replacement. Is that Terminator crank the correct bolt pattern for your flywheel (or flexplate)?

I am not sure if the Terminator motors are balanced differently or not.

Many motors come stock without a custom balance. In the previous post, I asked the group if a stock 4.6 2v was balanced by Ford? Even if it was, I might risk going with a good used crank and just bolting it in. If your not running a high RPM application, I doubt it wil be an issue.

Even though it's a street driven car, I spend a fair amount of time north of 5500rpm, so I'll need to play it relatively safe. Guess that crank is out unless I find some matching rods and pistons since the motor is going to have to be pulled anyways.

Thoughts on rotating assemblies versus shortblocks? Eventually I do want run some kind of boost and flirt with 500whp or so, but for now, just looking for stout and near stock. Assume a $3500 budget for everything, incidentals included, and I will be pulling and reinstalling the motor.

 

[95PGTTech]

I would stay away from that crank as Terminator stuff uses different rods and pistons than B headed Cobras. I would be looking for a stock 96-98 Cobra crank.

Yes, a shortblock can be done on that budget re-using your stock block. For what you have listed, I would find some used Terminator rods and just a nice set of 9.5:1 or so forged pistons. Gaskets, bearings, and call it a day.

 

[captthunderpnts]

Mind sharing some of your wisdom and sources on where to get these parts? I'm not entirely convinced that MMR or DSS is as cheap as I can get parts. I thought about just trying to have my crank machined, but it would be foolish to not refresh the bottom end at my mileage (130k). So is life.

 

[CJK440]

Cheapest thing to do is to replace the crank with a stock forging out of a 96-98 Cobra and run it.

Second least expensive is to get a balanced rotating assembly and install it in your teksid block.

 

[captthunderpnts]

Cheapest thing to do is to replace the crank with a stock forging out of a 96-98 Cobra and run it.

Second least expensive is to get a balanced rotating assembly and install it in your teksid block.

New rotating assembly is what I'm learning toward. What's a good direction to go? Also, is there a cheat sheet parts list for the whole job?

 

[95PGTTech]

New rotating assembly is what I'm learning toward. What's a good direction to go? Also, is there a cheat sheet parts list for the whole job?

what I would do if I were you:

buy a set of 03-04 rods out of the marketplace here (usually $300 - $400). buy another stock crank $200-$300.
buy a new set of forged pistons or wait for a set to go up on here.

the other stuff is not worth trying to find on here as you'll nickel and dime yourself to death. the first things that come to mind are
arp head studs
arp main studs
arp block side bolts
arp crank and cam bolts
new piston rings, main bearings, rod bearings
frpp gasket kit
an oil pump with billet gears
LDC or similar cooling mod for head

I'm sure I'm forgetting one or two small things.

then you will need machine work
balance the rotating assembly
hot tank the block and heads
overbore if necessary and hone the cylinders (only after this is done order pistons and rings)


I would avoid
aftermarket cams
cam gears (I would normally recommend comp cams adjustable cam gears, but seems like you're in for enough already degreeing 4v cams is not a beginner job)
porting of stock heads or sinking further money into them
stroker kits
rear main seal braces, etc. or the tens of thousands of other ways to pour money into these motors

I would definitely put a quality balancer on it after the rebuild. if you are going to supercharge, go with a ID 10%. if you are going to turbo or stay N/A, use your march.

 

[na svt]

If it's staying n/a keep your rods and pistons, change the crank and be do be done with it. Studs, balancer, and rods aren't needed. I you want to add power change the cams.

If changing the rotating assembly go with a stroker. Still no need for studs or balancer.

 

[caveeagle]

what I would do if I were you:.........

overbore if necessary and hone the cylinders (only after this is done order pistons and rings).............

The machine shops I have worked with like to have the new pistons on hand when doing the machine work. Maybe this is not normal?? ..but my shop #s the pistons and machine matched each bore to the piston.

Admittedly... my experience has been with SBF and SMC, but shouldn't that be pretty standard??

 

[na svt]

The machine shops I have worked with like to have the new pistons on hand when doing the machine work. Maybe this is not normal?? ..but my shop #s the pistons and machine matched each bore to the piston.

Admittedly... my experience has been with SBF and SMC, but shouldn't that be pretty standard??

You are correct, each cylinder should be finish honed to match the pistons that will be inserted into it.

 

[Stanger00]

You also dont want to arbitrarily order a 20 over piston when a 5 over will do just fine. Most of these cars see boost so the extra 2 ci won't mean much. At least have the block inspected to find out how much material needs to be removed before buying new pistons.

 

[captthunderpnts]

If it's staying n/a keep your rods and pistons, change the crank and be do be done with it. Studs, balancer, and rods aren't needed. I you want to add power change the cams.

If changing the rotating assembly go with a stroker. Still no need for studs or balancer.

I am planning to supercharge in the next year or so, shooting for 500rwhp, so I went ahead and ordered the MMR750 stroker rotating assembly. I'll probably swap to C heads before that to open up my twin screw options down the road, so this is more of a preemptive build if anything. That said, I definitely want to start off with a good foundation for my future plans, which the stock internals are presumably not well suited for over 450 - please correct me if I'm off.

You also dont want to arbitrarily order a 20 over piston when a 5 over will do just fine. Most of these cars see boost so the extra 2 ci won't mean much. At least have the block inspected to find out how much material needs to be removed before buying new pistons.

My plan was to have the pistons on hand when I take the block to the machinist since it's good practice to have them matched anyways. Being that my stock block is already at 130k miles (80k of which I do not know how it was treated), I went ahead and planned for .020 over as a safe medium.


I believe I'm set as far as motor parts needed to get this thing back on the road, but I'm stuck at clutch choice. Eh, that's life, I guess.

 

[captthunderpnts]

Now, as an update, I've been tearing the whole car apart, trans, exhaust, harness, etc. has all been removed at this point. I am now working on getting the AC compressor and power steering pump removed, but it's a puzzle to me on how to approach it. Should I have just removed the wheels to get to the mounting bolts from the side, or are they accessible from either front or back?

Also, I figure while I'm at it, I may as well replace the front wheel hubs (I run pretty aggressive negative camber and eat them up relatively quickly). Is there anywhere I can get the retaining nut and bearing dust cover from someplace that isn't the stealership? I don't know if I can really justify spending $12 each on some paper-thin metal caps and a couple of lock nuts.

People weren't kidding when they said this nickel and dime business would be the death of me.

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

I didnt have any luck finding those parts any cheaper. I dunno if its different on your model year or not but torque spec on those hubs was like 325-350ft lbs.

 

[captthunderpnts]

I didnt have any luck finding those parts any cheaper. I dunno if its different on your model year or not but torque spec on those hubs was like 325-350ft lbs.

I've heard anywhere between 200-350 for 96-98s. I found the retainer nuts on Amazon for like $11 a pop, but that's still outrageous.