Broken clutch cable

[Chipofsc]

Broke a clutch cable this weekend and ordered a new one. Will it do any good to put something inside the cable to help it slide better. Maybe graphite ? It has a spec III clutch and very hard to push.

 

[Black02GT]

They make cable lube and a little device for dirtbikes that help lube the cables. To be honest dont really think it's needed in our application.
Assuming it snapped in the cabin since they pretty much all do, check your quadrant. I've had a Fiore quadrant that had a little rough spot on it my old tuner said he's seen burrs wearing cables.
I used to go through a lot of cables (half a dozen in 185k) but I think it was due to the really high pedal pressure from my twisted/tweaked input shaft on one of the transmissions. Haven't broken a cable in awhile and not constantly adjusting for stretch now.

 

[Chipofsc]

It broke in the cabin at the quadrant. It's a aftermarket part but not sure who make it. It's blue and I plan on taking it out just to make sure there are no rough spots on it. Been searching for other post on cable lube.

 

[TXEnginerd]

Everyone with experience on this will tell you, don't replace it with another aftermarket/adjustable cable. Replace it with a stock one. Like this:

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/MM-Clutch-Cable-Universal-Mustang-Ford-OEM-1982-04-P897.aspx

Not only have I not snapped this cable, it made my clutch pedal effort way less. If you have an aftermarket quadrant, then you will need a firewall adjuster to be able to set the length properly.

 

[Chipofsc]

That's the one I broke. I have a quadrent with three connections points and it broke at the first one closest to the firewall. I ordered one from steeda because I read several post about how good they were. I'm looking for a quadrent with only one hook hoping that will prevent the pinching of the cable.

 

[TXEnginerd]

That sucks. Then yeah I'd recommend getting another quadrant and make sure the quadrant is straight when you install the new cable. You can put some nylon/plastic washers on either side of the quadrant to shim it into alignment. I run this quadrant without issues and love the feel:

http://www.lethalperformance.com/steeda-96-04-mustang-quick-release-quadrant.html


And I'd also still advise you to stick with the stock cable:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?922848-I-keep-snapping-my-clutch-cable-pissed

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...How-Do-I-Adjust-This-Damn-Steeda-Clutch-Cable

 

[Chipofsc]

Good info. Thanks. I will check to make sure it's straight when I put the new one on. I put the old quadrant next to the old cable and it is showing wear at each of the three connections points. I ordered a single quadrant just for peace of mine but it maybe the allinement is the problem. Not sure how to go about this but will see what I can do. It was very loose on the shaft when I removed it. I was told that was normal.

 

[Chipofsc]

I ordered the wrong cable for the cobra. It was for a 95 mustang. Way too short so I had to go to the local daler and pay big time for a ford stock cable. The new quadrent would not work with the stock cable even with the fire wall adjuster all the way out still was not enough. I took the old quadrent and used a die grinder to take out all the sharp edges out around the connection with the cable. Put it all back but the clutch was at the very top of the peddle. Moved the cable to the second hook on the quadrent and adjusted the firewall out to get the peddle about half way. I guess when the cable stretches some I can go back to the top location.

 

[04cobruh]

I just had an issue with my steeda cable. Came up to a red light and when it turned green I couldn't push the clutch pedal in one bit. Got her towed home and when I unhooked the cable at the quadrant it would not budge. There's isn't any signs of heat or melting. I'm about to crawl under and pull the cable out and inspect it. Weird how within a time of 30-45 seconds the cable failed to move. I'll update when I get it pulled out. I have an extra UPR cable and I'm going to throw that in. I would use the stock cable but centerforce specifies using an adjustable cable. I have a quadrant and firewall adjuster too.

 

[04cobruh]

So I pulled my steeda cable and it looks perfect. Something on the inside must have frayed. I cannot move it one bit. Steeda is going to warranty it for me. i only had 2100 miles on it. Im going to cut it open and find out whats up with it.

 

[Chipofsc]

Has anyone tried the hydraulic replacement system for the cable. I've seen two types slave cycliner and throw out bearing type. It's about 600 buck for the kit.

 

[Black02GT]

Eh, I looked it to it awhile back, user reviews and such. Definitely helps pedal feel but in terms of reliability seemed leaky TOB was the main issue. Personally a cable is by far is the simplest system, hydrolic isn't going to help reliability.

 

[Chipofsc]

I was thinking about the guys that keep breaking cables

 

[Black02GT]

I hear yeah, just saying it's an inherently more complicated system with more places for failures. I'm still toying with the idea, I've seen people do poor man conversions with wilwood cylinders. I'd love to see if anyone here has one. It's pretty popular with the Factory Five guys and other more involved projects.