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Brembo 4 piston users....
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<blockquote data-quote="gcassidy" data-source="post: 8750360" data-attributes="member: 13216"><p>It's probably my fault, Tom. I sucked at English in school. LOL</p><p></p><p>And I agree with all that's been said. I'm not a brake expert, so I've probably been confusing you guys.</p><p>Now, while I started this post to point out what happened to the clip on my caliper so others may check theirs when the have the chance, I'll never turn down free advice about my brakes. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /></p><p></p><p>As said above, they are Brembo rotors that only have 900 miles on them, 800 street and 100 track (2 weekends ago). These are my 3rd set in the years I've been tracking the car, the ones just removed had reached min thickness with only the usual spider heat checking they usually get, no large cracks. When on the street, I use Hawk HPS, and the track pads I was removing were Hawk DTC70. <a href="http://www.hawkperformance.com/motorsports/compounds/dtc60.php" target="_blank">Hawk Performance: Motorsports</a></p><p>The pads were at the end of their rotation, having 6 track days (about 1~2 hours a day) on them and an average of .223 pad material left. They have given their life for me and are greatly appreciated.</p><p></p><p>Now, as for the NASA HPDE a couple weekends ago, I was running my BFG R1's, and it was dry with lots of grip. I was breaking as hard as I ever have, running in the instructor and TT group, so they were probably getting the most workout they ever will. I never got into abs. And since less than .25 inch pad material is not much insulation, I'm sure the fluid was getting pretty hot. Its the Wilwood 570. </p><p></p><p>I don't know how all this plays into the smear you guys are seeing on the rotors. I have cooling ducts, and don't know if there's something other than compressing my breaking zone to cool down the brakes more. Summit Point main has 2 long breaking zones, and 3 somewhat shorter ones. </p><p></p><p>Another thing that may throw a wrinkle into reading these rotors is I drive to and from Summit Point with the DTC's on, since it's only an hour away. I don't know if that might have an influence on what the rotors look like right now.</p><p></p><p>I'm open to advice, but am unlikely to switch from Hawks right now. I'm enjoying a good relationship with Jay Andrews of Andrews Racing, and like the advice he has offered on brakes. And no, he hasn't seen this yet.</p><p></p><p>Here are the removed and retired DTC70 pads. They show no heat cracking and just a little crumbling. I used to get a bit of that sometimes with Hawk Blues, but never enough to be a problem.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1104699[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1104700[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Any ideas? I have the clip back in with hi-temp loc-tite, and found another screw <em>very slightly</em> loose when removing the others to put loc-tite on them. The street pads are back on, and this weekend I'll put some street miles on it and expect everything to be OK.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="gcassidy, post: 8750360, member: 13216"] It's probably my fault, Tom. I sucked at English in school. LOL And I agree with all that's been said. I'm not a brake expert, so I've probably been confusing you guys. Now, while I started this post to point out what happened to the clip on my caliper so others may check theirs when the have the chance, I'll never turn down free advice about my brakes. :D As said above, they are Brembo rotors that only have 900 miles on them, 800 street and 100 track (2 weekends ago). These are my 3rd set in the years I've been tracking the car, the ones just removed had reached min thickness with only the usual spider heat checking they usually get, no large cracks. When on the street, I use Hawk HPS, and the track pads I was removing were Hawk DTC70. [url="http://www.hawkperformance.com/motorsports/compounds/dtc60.php"]Hawk Performance: Motorsports[/url] The pads were at the end of their rotation, having 6 track days (about 1~2 hours a day) on them and an average of .223 pad material left. They have given their life for me and are greatly appreciated. Now, as for the NASA HPDE a couple weekends ago, I was running my BFG R1's, and it was dry with lots of grip. I was breaking as hard as I ever have, running in the instructor and TT group, so they were probably getting the most workout they ever will. I never got into abs. And since less than .25 inch pad material is not much insulation, I'm sure the fluid was getting pretty hot. Its the Wilwood 570. I don't know how all this plays into the smear you guys are seeing on the rotors. I have cooling ducts, and don't know if there's something other than compressing my breaking zone to cool down the brakes more. Summit Point main has 2 long breaking zones, and 3 somewhat shorter ones. Another thing that may throw a wrinkle into reading these rotors is I drive to and from Summit Point with the DTC's on, since it's only an hour away. I don't know if that might have an influence on what the rotors look like right now. I'm open to advice, but am unlikely to switch from Hawks right now. I'm enjoying a good relationship with Jay Andrews of Andrews Racing, and like the advice he has offered on brakes. And no, he hasn't seen this yet. Here are the removed and retired DTC70 pads. They show no heat cracking and just a little crumbling. I used to get a bit of that sometimes with Hawk Blues, but never enough to be a problem. [ATTACH=full]1104699[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1104700[/ATTACH] Any ideas? I have the clip back in with hi-temp loc-tite, and found another screw [I]very slightly[/I] loose when removing the others to put loc-tite on them. The street pads are back on, and this weekend I'll put some street miles on it and expect everything to be OK. [/QUOTE]
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