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SVT Shelby GT500
Brake upgrades
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<blockquote data-quote="barspen" data-source="post: 16228020" data-attributes="member: 152936"><p>Brake upgrade for the street are a tricky topic because there is a perception vs reality phenomena going on. Most upgrade you hear or read about don't do much for normal street driving. </p><p></p><p>For example, you will not get any 'feel' difference by upgrading to FRPP lines...They will take heat better, but that is not a 'street' driving issue. Also, larger rear rotors look better and have more surface area for heat dissipation, but on the street (especially with 80% of the stopping power up front), not much of a real difference on the Sunday cruise. Rotors style is also a big upgrade target. Cross drilled look great IMHO, but they offer no advantage in the 'stopping quick' department and they will typically crack before blanks or slotted rotors since the holes create a weak points. Again, for street driving, they look great, but over time will need replaced sooner than other choices and will not decrease your stopping distances. 2-piece rotors have less weight and distribute heat better, but again, on the street, it's really not much of an advantage either (great for the track).</p><p></p><p>My advice after experimenting with many options discussed in the thread:</p><p>- Flush your brake fluid at least once per year. It gets contaminated quick. Plus, any air left in the systems will cause the brakes to feel weak and squishy. A Motive pressure bleeder or caliper Speed Bleeder kit make this a very simple job.</p><p>- New or 'turned' rotors do help with feel (remember, only blanks can be 'turned' in most cases). Style choice is up to you, but new, fresh rotors will provide a nice, consistent pedal that we want on the street.</p><p>- Pads are your biggest upgrade target. An Autocross pad will be more aggressive on the street, but will dust and may make noise. But you will stop quicker. Willing to deal with the trade off? There are some good dual-use pads, but they are pretty expensive. BTW, more aggressive pads usually need heat built up before they work well, so stay away from 'race' pads on the street.</p><p>- Stainless steel lines will make the pedal 'feel' firmer in most cases, but they wont make you stop faster. Worth the price on the street?? Maybe.</p><p>- I separated the mixed brake and clutch fluid for HPDE use, but it had an unexpected effect. The brake fluid stays much cleaner. Not a huge difference in feel, but does isolate fluid contamination with the clutch system.</p><p>- Your tire choice has a lot to do with braking. Whole different topic, but it may be impacting your actual stopping distance.</p><p></p><p>The stock 4-piston kit on the '11 is actually really solid. I've spent a lot of time and money on different products and mods over of the past 8+ years and it boils down to a few minor upgrades and considerations to help braking on the street. When you start looking at HPDE brake upgrades, the conversation gets much more complex and your wallet can take a big hit. </p><p></p><p>Good luck and let us know which direction you go.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="barspen, post: 16228020, member: 152936"] Brake upgrade for the street are a tricky topic because there is a perception vs reality phenomena going on. Most upgrade you hear or read about don't do much for normal street driving. For example, you will not get any 'feel' difference by upgrading to FRPP lines...They will take heat better, but that is not a 'street' driving issue. Also, larger rear rotors look better and have more surface area for heat dissipation, but on the street (especially with 80% of the stopping power up front), not much of a real difference on the Sunday cruise. Rotors style is also a big upgrade target. Cross drilled look great IMHO, but they offer no advantage in the 'stopping quick' department and they will typically crack before blanks or slotted rotors since the holes create a weak points. Again, for street driving, they look great, but over time will need replaced sooner than other choices and will not decrease your stopping distances. 2-piece rotors have less weight and distribute heat better, but again, on the street, it's really not much of an advantage either (great for the track). My advice after experimenting with many options discussed in the thread: - Flush your brake fluid at least once per year. It gets contaminated quick. Plus, any air left in the systems will cause the brakes to feel weak and squishy. A Motive pressure bleeder or caliper Speed Bleeder kit make this a very simple job. - New or 'turned' rotors do help with feel (remember, only blanks can be 'turned' in most cases). Style choice is up to you, but new, fresh rotors will provide a nice, consistent pedal that we want on the street. - Pads are your biggest upgrade target. An Autocross pad will be more aggressive on the street, but will dust and may make noise. But you will stop quicker. Willing to deal with the trade off? There are some good dual-use pads, but they are pretty expensive. BTW, more aggressive pads usually need heat built up before they work well, so stay away from 'race' pads on the street. - Stainless steel lines will make the pedal 'feel' firmer in most cases, but they wont make you stop faster. Worth the price on the street?? Maybe. - I separated the mixed brake and clutch fluid for HPDE use, but it had an unexpected effect. The brake fluid stays much cleaner. Not a huge difference in feel, but does isolate fluid contamination with the clutch system. - Your tire choice has a lot to do with braking. Whole different topic, but it may be impacting your actual stopping distance. The stock 4-piston kit on the '11 is actually really solid. I've spent a lot of time and money on different products and mods over of the past 8+ years and it boils down to a few minor upgrades and considerations to help braking on the street. When you start looking at HPDE brake upgrades, the conversation gets much more complex and your wallet can take a big hit. Good luck and let us know which direction you go. [/QUOTE]
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