Brake fluid... Type and DOT #??

[Blk03SVTCobra]

Very simply...

1) What type/brand/manufacturer of brake fluid do you use?
2) What DOT level is it (3, 4, 5)??
3) What kind of results have you noticed as far as stopping power?

Thanks in advance fellas :beer:

 

[coleman]

1) ATE Super Blue (racing) -- 536 degree
Ford High Performance Brake Fruid (racing) -- 550 degree
Valvoline SynPower (daily driving) -- 508 degree (increased recently -- new formula)

2) They are all DOT3 or 4
3) They all perform similarly ... The Valvoline is the most readily available & cheapest.
If you properly flush & bleed your brakes, you should not notice any difference between them. Yes, they do differ slightly in boiling points, but if you cook your brakes that much, you're doing something wrong or you'll need to spend $60 per pint for even better stuff...

AFAIK, the dot 5.0 is not compatible with dot 3 or 4...

 

[toofast4u]

Stock is a DOT 3. I use DOT 4 ATE Super Blue and Type 200 fluid. Don't use Super Blue if you are still stock and want to keep your warrenty it is very clearly not the stock fluid since it is blue. "Do not ever use DOT 5" it is not compatible with anything other then DOT 5. You will not notice any difference daily driving it is more fade resistance during high speed driving on a track.

 

[toofast4u]

Also ATE Super Blue is not technically DOT 4 compliant. DOT 4 requires the fluid to be amber and since Super Blue is blue it is not compliant for that reason. In every other respect it is far superior to DOT 4 requirements. Super Blue and Type 200 are the same fluid the only difference is the color.

 

[mosconiac]

Here's an awesome publication on this subject...http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/Brake Fluid Comparison.htm

 

[EatonEggbeater]

Most folks use the Ford heavy duty fluid Coleman noted above. It's around $3.60 a pint at your local Ford dealer.

Also look here: http://www.speedbleeder.com/ for speed bleeders, a good upgrade for us road racing wannabe's

 

[toofast4u]

Originally posted by EatonEggbeater
Also look here: http://www.speedbleeder.com/ for speed bleeders, a good upgrade for us road racing wannabe's

Yes they are. I have them on both my cars the only thing is the Brembos take 2 for each caliper which ends up to be a lot of bleeders. I have 6 on my car and 8 on my wifes. I also use the Motive pressure bleeder with them and as long as you buy the right cap it works fine.

 

[EatonEggbeater]

I just put them on the outside bleeder on my Wilwoods, the fluid has to travel through the inner caliper half then it goes through a short tube into the outer caliper piece. I can now change my brake fluid through the wheel!

 

[coleman]

With the Motive pressure bleeder, you don't need speed bleeders...

 

[toofast4u]

Originally posted by coleman
With the Motive pressure bleeder, you don't need speed bleeders...

You don't need them, but at the time I was not happy with the Motive universal adapter. I am still not the biggest fan of it, but it is vastly improved now that they have a Ford specific adapter.

 

[lucafu1]

How much brake fluid is need to properly flush the system? Also is there anything special that is needed. I never done a ABS car. BTW wheres the best place to start?

 

[coleman]

If you alternate ATE super blue and regular yellow, it's easy -- just wait for the color to change.

 

[lucafu1]

Im using vavoline so its the same color. Ill just try it out.

thanks
Luis

 

[toofast4u]

How much brake fluid is need to properly flush the system? Also is there anything special that is needed. I never done a ABS car. BTW wheres the best place to start?

I use a 1 liter can when I flush my system. The ABS is a PIA if you want to really flush the system the problem is it has a reserve of fluid which is only released in two conditions one is when you lock-up your brakes and the other is a device dealerships used called a magic box. So in order to change that fluid easily you will need to be friendly with somebody who works at a dealership and use the magic box. The home solution is to flush the system then go out for an aggressive drive and then flush it again. I don't worry about what is in the ABS and just flush the rest.

 

[lucafu1]

I use a 1 liter can when I flush my system. The ABS is a PIA if you want to really flush the system the problem is it has a reserve of fluid which is only released in two conditions one is when you lock-up your brakes and the other is a device dealerships used called a magic box. So in order to change that fluid easily you will need to be friendly with somebody who works at a dealership and use the magic box. The home solution is to flush the system then go out for an aggressive drive and then flush it again. I don't worry about what is in the ABS and just flush the rest.

Thanks for the info. I just dont like mixing fluids and I didnt know if it would cause any problems later. Thanks

Luis

 

[toofast4u]

Thanks for the info. I just dont like mixing fluids and I didnt know if it would cause any problems later. Thanks

Luis

I don't either I just flush often enough I don't worry about it. I switch between the ATE Super Blue and Type 200. They are both the same fluid just different colors.

 

[13 Cobra Toy]

Add one more to the list....Motul RBF 600

"EXTREME THERMAL RESISTANCE AND STABILITY: the elevated boiling point of RBF 600 FACTORY LINE (312°c / 593°F) enables effective braking even under the extreme conditions of competition. VERY EFFICIENT WHEN RAINY: the very high wet boiling point (216°c / 420°F), is superior to conventional brake fluids provides a particularly efficient braking system in rain and put back the apparition of vapor lock"

 

[coleman]

Your statements "VERY EFFICIENT WHEN RAINY" & "the very high wet boiling point" have nothing to do with each other... I don't know why I got the impression that you (or whomever) are trying to relate raining and it's wet-boiling point... :shrug: