Home
What's new
Latest activity
Authors
Store
Latest reviews
Search products
Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New listings
New products
New profile posts
Latest activity
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
Cart
Cart
Loading…
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Search titles only
By:
Menu
Log in
Register
Navigation
Install the app
Install
More options
Change style
Contact us
Close Menu
Forums
Other Fast Ford Vehicles
Taurus SHO
Gen IV Taurus SHO
Boost Gauge Connection
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="z11375ss" data-source="post: 16565956" data-attributes="member: 65980"><p>Ok f***ers. I have found the solution! I have no clue as to why the examples on the internet show very complicated brass type fittings made from cobbled together hardware store items.</p><p></p><p>Using a T-shaped plastic vacuum connector and just cutting the line to work is just fine. Cost? .05 cents? So the T connector should be 3/8ths to 3/8ths with a third line coming off it with a 1/32nd line. Hook the gauge to the small one and run the two other ends into the brake booster line that runs along the cowl. </p><p></p><p>I have found that using this method seems to interfere with the operation of the power brake booster. As in when the motor is making boost, the brakes act as if they are manual and that freaked me out as when all of a sudden you have lesser brakes. You would think this condition would occur with or without the boost gauge installed. The problem goes away when you move the vacuum line to the intake. Think about this though. You are racing the car and need your brakes, RIGHT NOW! They are ineffective. Panic ensues.</p><p></p><p>There is a hose ('1/32nd') on the top of the intake that goes from the intake to the intake providing a constant source of vacuum or boost depending what the turbos are doing. This line is right in front of the MAP. I used that instead of the brake booster as I want my brakes to be great all the time. This was way less hard than it should have been and I hope this sheds light on something I couldn't find an answer to on the INTERNET!</p><p></p><p>One more thing. I saw a vid where a guy had put a boost gauge on his truck. He said the gauge worked but only showed the difference up to a zero boost/zero vacuum state (0). I suggest if you find this to be the case on your car to take it out and run the damn thing. My gauge would only show vacuum in the garage even when under boosted condition. As in, power braking the car to get it into boost mode.</p><p></p><p>I took it for a ride because I had faith in my work and lo and behold, the gauge read well above zero vacuum. Like 12 lbs of boost. I couldn't replicate this in my garage or on the street in front of my house. Take it for a rip and see if it works before giving up.</p><p></p><p>Good luck to all.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="z11375ss, post: 16565956, member: 65980"] Ok f***ers. I have found the solution! I have no clue as to why the examples on the internet show very complicated brass type fittings made from cobbled together hardware store items. Using a T-shaped plastic vacuum connector and just cutting the line to work is just fine. Cost? .05 cents? So the T connector should be 3/8ths to 3/8ths with a third line coming off it with a 1/32nd line. Hook the gauge to the small one and run the two other ends into the brake booster line that runs along the cowl. I have found that using this method seems to interfere with the operation of the power brake booster. As in when the motor is making boost, the brakes act as if they are manual and that freaked me out as when all of a sudden you have lesser brakes. You would think this condition would occur with or without the boost gauge installed. The problem goes away when you move the vacuum line to the intake. Think about this though. You are racing the car and need your brakes, RIGHT NOW! They are ineffective. Panic ensues. There is a hose ('1/32nd') on the top of the intake that goes from the intake to the intake providing a constant source of vacuum or boost depending what the turbos are doing. This line is right in front of the MAP. I used that instead of the brake booster as I want my brakes to be great all the time. This was way less hard than it should have been and I hope this sheds light on something I couldn't find an answer to on the INTERNET! One more thing. I saw a vid where a guy had put a boost gauge on his truck. He said the gauge worked but only showed the difference up to a zero boost/zero vacuum state (0). I suggest if you find this to be the case on your car to take it out and run the damn thing. My gauge would only show vacuum in the garage even when under boosted condition. As in, power braking the car to get it into boost mode. I took it for a ride because I had faith in my work and lo and behold, the gauge read well above zero vacuum. Like 12 lbs of boost. I couldn't replicate this in my garage or on the street in front of my house. Take it for a rip and see if it works before giving up. Good luck to all. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Other Fast Ford Vehicles
Taurus SHO
Gen IV Taurus SHO
Boost Gauge Connection
Top