BMR Suspension Question/Advice

little-dw

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I recently just bought these items off someone who had a 2014 GT500. These parts have never been used, still in the box, and was sold at a very reasonable price that I could not pass up.
The parts are:


Code:
BMR-AAS001R: A-arm support brace
BMR-AA021R: A-arms, lower, non-adj, poly/delrin, 19mm std ht ball joint
BMR-CB004R: Chassis brace, radiator support
BMR-CAB005R: Control arm relocation brackets, bolt-on
BMR-ELK010: End link kit for sway bars, front
BMR-KM018R: K-member, standard motor mounts, standard rack mounts
BMR-TCA021R: Lower control arms, DOM, on-car adj., poly/rod end combo
BMR-SP072R: Lowering springs, set of 4, 1.5" drop, handling, GT500
BMR-PHR006R: Panhard rod, DOM, on-car adjustable, polyurethane bushings
BMR-RS003R: Radiator support with sway bar mount
BMR-SB042R: Sway bar kit with bushings, rear, adjustable, hollow 25mm
BMR-SB041R: Sway bar kit, front, hollow 38mm, 5-hole adjustable
BMR-UCM002R: Upper Control Arm Mount
BMR-UTCA003R: Upper Control Arm, DOM, On-car Adj, Spherical Bearing


The instructions are very clear. I downloaded the PDFs corresponding to each part, and that shouldn't be an issue as far as installation.


Are there any other parts or advice I would need to have before tackling this suspension project?
Do I need any offset camber bolts when lowering the front? (he did throw in a 'bump steer kit' which consisted of some bolts and spacers) not sure if that is what its for?
 

BMR Tech

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Holy #%#$%

You aren't playing around, are ya?

That car is going to be completely different.....

I am not thinking of much else to recommend....I would just tackle the rear first, then the front.

And keep in mind, due to you installing the full front package (KM018/AA021/RS003/CB004) - you will need to be creative, and also invest in some high quality fasteners and zip ties to keep all of your panels underneath, if you choose to keep them.

Enjoy!
 

little-dw

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Holy #%#$%

You aren't playing around, are ya?

That car is going to be completely different.....

I am not thinking of much else to recommend....I would just tackle the rear first, then the front.

And keep in mind, due to you installing the full front package (KM018/AA021/RS003/CB004) - you will need to be creative, and also invest in some high quality fasteners and zip ties to keep all of your panels underneath, if you choose to keep them.

Enjoy!

my original plan was just to lower the car and get better traction when launching. so i went from there, lowering springs which resulted in needing a panhard rod, lower and upper control arms/mount, and figured what the hell get the rear sway bar.

then figured, all this razzle dazzle for the back, what about the front. not even sure if i need any of it but just kept reading on the site that this part recommends this part and that part recommends that part...so thats where I ended up

I did not get the "KON-M0510-YE: Koni shocks, front 8741-1494SP, rear 8241-1240SP, set of 4" because I'm not even sure what the difference will be.

would i be safe to just do the rear and leave the front alone?
would i be safe to do just the kmember and front sway bar? or do they require the chassis brace/radiator brace as well?
 

BMR Tech

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AH! Initial set-up.

Assuming you have the E-Bilsteins?

UCA Mount: Upper Hole closest to body.
LCA Brackets: Middle Position
SB041: Middle position
SB042: Stiffest position (hole furthest from end/tip - closest to actual bar)

Set the thrust angle to zero....and ensure the wheelbase is at 107.1" minimum. The car will be more stable, the longer the wheelbase....I prefer about 107.25 - 107.35".

If you have the 1-PC CF Shaft....then set the pinion flange to +1 degrees. (when looking from the driver side, towards passenger side 1 degree to the left of zero with the car on a drive on lift)

When tightening the jam nuts on the UTCA033 (they are 1.5" nuts BTW) - make sure that the bearing end of the UCA in the mount stays indexed perfectly straight up and down, not cocked crooked. This will ensure you do no get excessive NVH, and prevent jam nuts from coming loose.

Also, for the LCA bearing ends....purchase and install the Seals It RERS-3 boots. Trust me.

Here is a pinion angle vid link:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9TbwRZqEtxQ&list=UUuR8FA202bXZ9I0Yqe1HSVA

Here is a link to the rod end boots I highly recommend:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sit-rers3
 

little-dw

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yes the e-bilsteins

I was worrying about NHV when seeing that the upper control arm was the spherical joint, although this isnt a daily driver, maybe once a week if that , i do take it on cruises of 100+miles and would not want to have too much nhv
 
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BMR Tech

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The Bilsteins would work good.

Just keep them. The Koni's will work better....but the Bilsteins are good if you already have them.
 

little-dw

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The Bilsteins would work good.

Just keep them. The Koni's will work better....but the Bilsteins are good if you already have them.

thanks. I'll probably keep the bilstein.

I guess I'll do the rear first, then get familiar with the front panels and lines/wiring to fasten up if I decide to go that route

If not, would just the a arms/mount , k member and sway bar with end link kit go on without modifications?
 

BMR Tech

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No. Any of the front stuff requires making modification. It isn't hard, I promise.
 

04whitesvtlight

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AH! Initial set-up.

Assuming you have the E-Bilsteins?

UCA Mount: Upper Hole closest to body.
LCA Brackets: Middle Position
SB041: Middle position
SB042: Stiffest position (hole furthest from end/tip - closest to actual bar)

Set the thrust angle to zero....and ensure the wheelbase is at 107.1" minimum. The car will be more stable, the longer the wheelbase....I prefer about 107.25 - 107.35".

If you have the 1-PC CF Shaft....then set the pinion flange to +1 degrees. (when looking from the driver side, towards passenger side 1 degree to the left of zero with the car on a drive on lift)

When tightening the jam nuts on the UTCA033 (they are 1.5" nuts BTW) - make sure that the bearing end of the UCA in the mount stays indexed perfectly straight up and down, not cocked crooked. This will ensure you do no get excessive NVH, and prevent jam nuts from coming loose.

Also, for the LCA bearing ends....purchase and install the Seals It RERS-3 boots. Trust me.

Here is a pinion angle vid link:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9TbwRZqEtxQ&list=UUuR8FA202bXZ9I0Yqe1HSVA

Here is a link to the rod end boots I highly recommend:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sit-rers3

Great info I'm about to install all bmr rear suspension components Sunday any other helpful tips?
 

railroad

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After setting the length of the upper control arm, put some blue loctite on the lock nuts and threads. Torque all of this before installation. It looks like it would be tough to get a couple of wrenches above the axle to do it after installation. I did not do this, but the grease fitting on the UCA is easier to access if it is about 30 to 40 degrees off straight. Zip tie the emerg brake cables to the LCA arm no need in letting them rub as the suspension moves. Unless you know your alignment man has them, take a bottle of blue loctite, a 4 ft level, a ruler or tape measure, an angle gauge, and a hand square or speed square with you. I took a couple of my largest adjustable wrenches, but he had those covered. Lowering springs on the front end, nothing, but a toe-in adjustment if your car has not taken a lick, or you plan on throwing sparks.
 

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