Blackstone Oil Lab Report on my Mobil 5w30

Jefe

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Thanks to 01CobraVortechs idea, I decided to send some oil to Blackstone for testing. Sent it out last week and they emailed me the results just now, thought Id post it up. This is something everyone needs to do at least once just in case they find something wrong that might save you big $$$!

Main reason I did this was because of a lower end ticking I have had for about 8 months now that will not go away. After reading threads for 6 months on here, I pretty much though I had some piston skirt damage like DSG2NV03(http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/engine-tuning-214/614706-piston-skirt-damage-help.html) and wanted to see if anything abnormal showed up in the oil. I don't see any loss in power, car runs like a champ and has since September 08. Even made 423rwhp at 9psi. I drive the car 30+ miles a day and average 16mpg(heavy foot). I have never done back to back runs with more than 2 gears worth of WOT and you cant hear the ticking in the heads so Im still lost at this point. Getting the tune done here soon and if that doesn't show me what problem Ive got then im getting a compression test done just to be sure.

Here's my ticking threads where Ive pretty much ruled everything outside the motor out:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/exhaust-215/597159-exhaust-manifold-leak.html
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/597468-ticking-transmission.html

I am now running German Castrol 0w30 and will most likely use it for 5k-6k miles.

Order your free test kit here: Blackstone Labs

OIlReport-1.png


I am still a newb when it comes to this stuff, anyone care to relay some info from this test to me? Wonder why the viscosity was thick, I had Royal Purple 10w30 in it before the Mobil so maybe that's why
 

Jefe

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Thanks, Im a little confused on my page on which stats I need to compare.

Not these?

Capture-3.jpg


But these?

Capture1-1.jpg


Magnesium, phosphorus and zinc sure are high....
 

Brutal Metal

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The Tester seems to be very happy with the way your Mobil 1 5W30 is performing SO why the change to German Castrol? Mines well just use Amsoil 0W30 if your gonna do a switch.. And he likes a 4500 mile change interval?
 
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RAPTOR5V

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Free kit they mail you, then send it in and I think this oil test is $22.

Blackstone Labs

thank you for the info. I am doing now, i am due for an oil change, have been running mobil1 syn for like 20k now (30k total on car) and am very interested in a report on mine. i noticed they personally commented on your questions are they always that helpful with feedback??

:beer:
 

P49Y-CY

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looks good jefe congrats

yeah i had mine done too a couple years ago (based on shelbyguy's recommendations on this board) and it came back good, but the first time they said that i should have more miles on the oil to really see accurate results.

i used to change my synthetic oil every 3k, and they told me to go ahead and increase the interval to about 4800. then i had it done again with good results
 

MrMason

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Thanks, Im a little confused on my page on which stats I need to compare.

Not these?

Capture-3.jpg


But these?

Capture1-1.jpg


Magnesium, phosphorus and zinc sure are high....

The first one. The other is universal averages. First one is averages from around your area, different conditions in different places. And you can see where it says "values should be*"
 

Jefe

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thank you for the info. I am doing now, i am due for an oil change, have been running mobil1 syn for like 20k now (30k total on car) and am very interested in a report on mine. i noticed they personally commented on your questions are they always that helpful with feedback??

:beer:

I emailed them these questions yesterday:

Might you be able to shed some light on why the Calc, Magn, and Phos are so high? And why Iron, Copper, Moly, Boron, Silicon, and Sodium are that low compared to averages? This is all new to me.

Just got this back:

Calcium, magnesium, boron, sodium, etc are detergent/dispersant additives that keep stuff in suspension in the oil so that it can be filtered out. Moly, phosphorus, and zinc are anti-wear additives. Sodium, potassium, and silicon can show coolant in oil, though silicon can also be from harmless grease, lube, or ant-foaming additive in an oil. Different oil types and grades use different configurations of these chemical additive levels. Our averages are specifically from samples from the Ford 4.6L DOHC engine, so the averages for most of the additive levels might vary considerably from those in your sample, but that's normal. The top metals on the chart are from parts wearing, so if copper and iron read lower than average, it means corresponding parts inside your engine are wearing better than average. I hope this helps. If you have any further questions, feel free to contact us.

Regards

Steve Zulkowski
Mobil 1 looks fine. Why switch?
Already had this expensive German Castrol waiting to go in hoping it might fix the tick(wishful thinking) but not the case. Oh well, Ive seen Blackstone reports where they state you can go 5k-6k miles before changing it with the Castrol
 

MalcolmV8

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Jefe,

I somehow missed your ticking engine threads but here's my ticking sound I had for your comparison. It drove me nuts trying to figure out. It sounded like it was coming out the transmission very loudly, sounded like a rod knock but not quite as deep a sound. It was very hard to figure out. Tearing down the motor I found it was the piston skirt on cylinder number 4.
My car also drove fine and did not appear to be down on power or anything.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLIav2AbM4k"]YouTube - 03 cobra engine/transmission noise[/ame]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrG3cb5EHR8"]YouTube - 03 Cobra engine noise[/ame]

Here's what the piston looked like when I pulled it out. Hard to believe that's what was making so much noise.

file.php


Malcolm
 

Jefe

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Did you tear it down yourself? If not what did it cost? Ever get a compression test before doing it? Yours does sound worse than mine, how long was yours doing that?
 

MalcolmV8

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Yup pulled it myself and rebuilt the motor. I stopped driving mine as soon as the noise appeared. Well I drove it to work one day while trying to get a handle on what the noise was. That's why my car has sat since last November till this past weekend. Pretty much sat all winter because the garage was to cold to do anything and then I tore it down and rebuilt this summer. Little here and there as I had time.

Here's a thread of pulling my motor

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...0365-anyone-whos-pulled-their-motor-help.html

Here's the assembly of my motor, lots of pics deeper into the thread.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/terminator-talk-229/596279-how-assemble-shortblock.html

BTW I was unable to hear your noise. The street fire video wouldn't work for me.
 

Jefe

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Well this is my DD so Ill need another car if I have to do this. Thanks for the links. Heres my vid:

[ame=http://s280.photobucket.com/albums/kk199/RepnPB21/?action=view&current=DSCI1039-2.flv]DSCI1039-2.flv video by RepnPB21 - Photobucket[/ame]
 

shadyninja

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Why is the TBN _( Total Base Number) (google it)left blank?
that is the first thing I look at when I send a oil sample in.
 

MalcolmV8

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Why is the TBN _( Total Base Number) (google it)left blank?
that is the first thing I look at when I send a oil sample in.

It's probably the one thing everyone wants to see so naturally it costs an extra $10 to get TBN on the report. Perhaps that was not paid for the posted report above?
 

big reg

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I did in my F-body and also my Cobra at its last oil change. Synthetic is far superior to conventional and I will continue to do so. Paying 55-70$ for an oil change every 3k miles is pointless when using synthetics. Even the lab is telling him to extend intervals. The 3k mile interval notion was created with conventional oils in mind.

When I changed my oil a few weeks ago at 4900 miles or so, it was still a golden brown color. I showed my uncle my hand with the oil on it and he was amazed.
 
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