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Black Gold 380R's 65 Mustang Build Thread
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<blockquote data-quote="Black Gold 380R" data-source="post: 16767516" data-attributes="member: 70025"><p>Hey Bob. No sir, my engine builder does not have a dyno room. It's basically just a machine shop and not necessarily an engine performance shop. When I start the car I let it run a little and then I do give it a few wraps of the go fast pedal to hear that bad boy roar. So, it doesn't just idle the whole time it's running.</p><p></p><p>Okay, I thought the RPM issue in between shifts was a tuning thing. I wasn't worried to much since my tuner did tell me he needs to come out and mess with it while I drive it.</p><p></p><p>I will contact American Powertrain and ask them some questions, but I know what they are going to say..... "Your clutch pedal is not set up properly." </p><p></p><p>According to the instructions it says:</p><p></p><p><em>So you just converted your clanky old manual clutch to a hydraulic release bearing setup and you thought the pedal would be easier to operate than before. While that should be the case, it isn’t always, and that is due to geometry. Much like a brake pedal, there is a specific ratio that you need to achieve in order for the pedal to be easy to operate. For hydraulic clutch systems, that ratio is 6:1. </em></p><p></p><p>The bad thing is in the example they say:</p><p></p><p><em>On this 1965 Mustang, the factory clutch pedal is very close to the fulcrum, yielding a suitable ratio for the master cylinder. We were even able to use the original firewall hole.</em></p><p></p><p>And the kit I received from American Powertrain is made specifically for the 65 Mustang. So, their clutch master cylinder and rod placement are set up to utilize the factory hole in the firewall and the hole on the clutch pedal for the push rod to be set up in order to achieve the desired 6:1 ratio.</p><p></p><p>So, I don't know...... I'll call them and see what they say. Maybe it's a bad clutch master cylinder. You never know. As mentioned, besides the pressure it takes to operate the clutch pedal, the rest of the clutch system works great.</p><p></p><p>Here is the link to the instruction page for those who are interested.</p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://americanpowertrain.com/pedal-pusher-how-to-measure-and-adjust-your-clutch-pedal-ratio/[/URL]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Black Gold 380R, post: 16767516, member: 70025"] Hey Bob. No sir, my engine builder does not have a dyno room. It's basically just a machine shop and not necessarily an engine performance shop. When I start the car I let it run a little and then I do give it a few wraps of the go fast pedal to hear that bad boy roar. So, it doesn't just idle the whole time it's running. Okay, I thought the RPM issue in between shifts was a tuning thing. I wasn't worried to much since my tuner did tell me he needs to come out and mess with it while I drive it. I will contact American Powertrain and ask them some questions, but I know what they are going to say..... "Your clutch pedal is not set up properly." According to the instructions it says: [I]So you just converted your clanky old manual clutch to a hydraulic release bearing setup and you thought the pedal would be easier to operate than before. While that should be the case, it isn’t always, and that is due to geometry. Much like a brake pedal, there is a specific ratio that you need to achieve in order for the pedal to be easy to operate. For hydraulic clutch systems, that ratio is 6:1. [/I] The bad thing is in the example they say: [I]On this 1965 Mustang, the factory clutch pedal is very close to the fulcrum, yielding a suitable ratio for the master cylinder. We were even able to use the original firewall hole.[/I] And the kit I received from American Powertrain is made specifically for the 65 Mustang. So, their clutch master cylinder and rod placement are set up to utilize the factory hole in the firewall and the hole on the clutch pedal for the push rod to be set up in order to achieve the desired 6:1 ratio. So, I don't know...... I'll call them and see what they say. Maybe it's a bad clutch master cylinder. You never know. As mentioned, besides the pressure it takes to operate the clutch pedal, the rest of the clutch system works great. Here is the link to the instruction page for those who are interested. [URL unfurl="true"]https://americanpowertrain.com/pedal-pusher-how-to-measure-and-adjust-your-clutch-pedal-ratio/[/URL] [/QUOTE]
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