Home
What's new
Latest activity
Authors
Store
Latest reviews
Search products
Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New listings
New products
New profile posts
Latest activity
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
Cart
Cart
Loading…
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Search titles only
By:
Menu
Log in
Register
Navigation
Install the app
Install
More options
Change style
Contact us
Close Menu
Forums
Mustang Forums
Classic Mustangs
Black Gold 380R's 65 Mustang Build Thread
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Black Gold 380R" data-source="post: 16592650" data-attributes="member: 70025"><p>Okay all,</p><p></p><p>As mentioned earlier this weekend was more wiring. Yeah.... LOL....</p><p></p><p>After installing my electrical panel I have a couple plugs hanging that the other ends need to be connected to the car and I had to cut into the engine bay wiring harness to get other wires installed. Oh, and my new door popper came in. So, I installed that as well. Driver's door pops open perfectly now.</p><p></p><p>Here is the comparison to the new door popper solenoid to the old one. Besides the color they are exactly the same.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1694150[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>New door popper in place. This was a little bit of a challenge, but I welded the nuts to the mounting plate. So, this made it easier to install with the window channel in place. Getting the wire through the door popper and through the door latch was not fun, but got it done after a few tries.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1694151[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Here you can see the engine bay wiring harness is zip tied together to ensure it doesn't separate. Then I wired everything up according to my new design. Here is the layout: </p><p></p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Red w/white stripe = Water temp sensor (Gauge cluster); <strong><u>Note</u></strong>: a separate wire and sensor will be used for the ECU water temp sensor.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Red w/green stripe = 12V switched power for ECU (<strong><u>Note</u></strong>: this specific wire stays hot while the key is in the "start" position. This way my ECU stays on while cranking the car. I know I said yellow was for 12V switched power, but those turn off while cranking the car and red w/green stripe is the factory colored wire for this operation. Lastly when the key is in the accessory position this wire does not have power. This way the fuel pump is not running if I want to listen to the stereo while cleaning the car or something.)</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">White w/red stripe = Oil pressure sensor (Gauge cluster)</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Brown = Ignition power to starter solenoid under dash</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Red w/blue strip = Neutral safety switch wire to starter solenoid under dash</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Green = Power to mini high torque starter solenoid on starter on engine block</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Yellow = Fuel pump 12V switched on from ECU wiring harness</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Red plug = Back up light harness connected from transmission</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Blue plug = Neutral safety switch harness connected from transmission</li> </ul><p><u><strong>NOTE</strong></u>: for those of you who notice the folded over wires on the ends of the engine bay wiring harness that are zip tied out of the way, these are not used in my set up. The yellow and brown wires are for the blower motor and the red and yellow wires on the opposite side were for my factory voltage regulator. There is no blower motor on this car and I upgraded to a 3G alternator and its voltage is internally regulated.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1694152[/ATTACH] </p><p></p><p>For those of you who read my wiring list above and noticed that starter solenoid was listed twice, you are correct. My set up has 2 starter solenoids on it. The original Ford starter solenoid has several functions wired into it, such as a power distribution block to power the fuse box in the car. It also runs my neutral safety switch wiring and it sends the signal to the starter to turn on. So, in my set up I kept the wiring as it came from the factory to make it easier for me to figure out.</p><p></p><p>So, all I did was send the power wire off the original Ford starter solenoid (green wire) to the starter solenoid on my mini high torque starter on the engine block. I did have it wired this way on my first build of this car. So, all I did in this set up was relocate everything.</p><p></p><p>Sorry for the long post, but felt it might help someone else out who may come over from the vintage site and want to know how I wired my set up.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Black Gold 380R, post: 16592650, member: 70025"] Okay all, As mentioned earlier this weekend was more wiring. Yeah.... LOL.... After installing my electrical panel I have a couple plugs hanging that the other ends need to be connected to the car and I had to cut into the engine bay wiring harness to get other wires installed. Oh, and my new door popper came in. So, I installed that as well. Driver's door pops open perfectly now. Here is the comparison to the new door popper solenoid to the old one. Besides the color they are exactly the same. [ATTACH=full]1694150[/ATTACH] New door popper in place. This was a little bit of a challenge, but I welded the nuts to the mounting plate. So, this made it easier to install with the window channel in place. Getting the wire through the door popper and through the door latch was not fun, but got it done after a few tries. [ATTACH=full]1694151[/ATTACH] Here you can see the engine bay wiring harness is zip tied together to ensure it doesn't separate. Then I wired everything up according to my new design. Here is the layout: [LIST] [*]Red w/white stripe = Water temp sensor (Gauge cluster); [b][U]Note[/U][/b]: a separate wire and sensor will be used for the ECU water temp sensor. [*]Red w/green stripe = 12V switched power for ECU ([b][U]Note[/U][/b]: this specific wire stays hot while the key is in the "start" position. This way my ECU stays on while cranking the car. I know I said yellow was for 12V switched power, but those turn off while cranking the car and red w/green stripe is the factory colored wire for this operation. Lastly when the key is in the accessory position this wire does not have power. This way the fuel pump is not running if I want to listen to the stereo while cleaning the car or something.) [*]White w/red stripe = Oil pressure sensor (Gauge cluster) [*]Brown = Ignition power to starter solenoid under dash [*]Red w/blue strip = Neutral safety switch wire to starter solenoid under dash [*]Green = Power to mini high torque starter solenoid on starter on engine block [*]Yellow = Fuel pump 12V switched on from ECU wiring harness [*]Red plug = Back up light harness connected from transmission [*]Blue plug = Neutral safety switch harness connected from transmission [/LIST] [U][b]NOTE[/b][/U]: for those of you who notice the folded over wires on the ends of the engine bay wiring harness that are zip tied out of the way, these are not used in my set up. The yellow and brown wires are for the blower motor and the red and yellow wires on the opposite side were for my factory voltage regulator. There is no blower motor on this car and I upgraded to a 3G alternator and its voltage is internally regulated. [ATTACH=full]1694152[/ATTACH] For those of you who read my wiring list above and noticed that starter solenoid was listed twice, you are correct. My set up has 2 starter solenoids on it. The original Ford starter solenoid has several functions wired into it, such as a power distribution block to power the fuse box in the car. It also runs my neutral safety switch wiring and it sends the signal to the starter to turn on. So, in my set up I kept the wiring as it came from the factory to make it easier for me to figure out. So, all I did was send the power wire off the original Ford starter solenoid (green wire) to the starter solenoid on my mini high torque starter on the engine block. I did have it wired this way on my first build of this car. So, all I did in this set up was relocate everything. Sorry for the long post, but felt it might help someone else out who may come over from the vintage site and want to know how I wired my set up. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Mustang Forums
Classic Mustangs
Black Gold 380R's 65 Mustang Build Thread
Top