Black Gold 380R's 65 Mustang Build Thread

[Black Gold 380R]

LOL I have an eye because I usually do things wrong so I try to learn from others. Its a nice project and I'm sure you're getting eager to have it on the road again. I finally just got the oil leak stopped on my brand new 331 in my falcon (It was the 1 piece rear main.....ERRR!) and I'm so pumped to drive it I think I'm going to put the Terminator in storage for a bit.

I need to dig back into your thread now so I can see what EFI you're planning as you can see from my sig all my stuff is running EFI.

Lol, you're funny brother. Some how I don't think you do very many things wrong.

Glad to know you have plenty of experience with EFI. Now I know who to ask if I need help lol.

If you go back in my thread you'll see I'm running a Borla 8 stack injection system that will be controlled by the Holley Terminator ECU. A video by Holley makes it look straight forward, but the experts always make it look easy.

Thanks again Mike. Really appreciate you commenting in my thread sir.

Sent from my SM-G950U using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[Grabber70Mach]

You really put most everyone to shame including some shops with the amount of work that you get done in a couple of days. It's coming together extremely well. On the grommet on the bar. If you didn't already do it or think of it. I'd use a clear silicone to seal where the metal ring meets the bar.

Also some useful information here about efi wiring, tools, terminals, etc.
This gentleman also offers remote tuning.

Wiring considerations for Holley EFI systems.

Another site that might be helpful.

EFISystemPro.com

 

[Black Gold 380R]

You really put most everyone to shame including some shops with the amount of work that you get done in a couple of days. It's coming together extremely well. On the grommet on the bar. If you didn't already do it or think of it. I'd use a clear silicone to seal where the metal ring meets the bar.

Thank you Grabber. You and @geoffmt are always very kind with your comments/feedback. Let me tell you that I'm very grateful for that.

I'm not sure why I'm able to get so much accomplished every weekend. I'd like to think it's because I made a good plan and things fall in to place as exactly as I had planned LOL. However, when I have to do things twice (like last week with my passenger side coil over) I know my plans are not flawless LOL. I try to keep my mistakes to a minimum, but they happen.

I think I get so much done because it's my car, I know how I want it and I'm very motivated to finish the car. Also, I'm having fun doing this. So, it doesn't feel like work. And it's fun to do something and then step back and see how it looks. Seeing all my powder coated suspension against the red paint/Raptor liner was a great motivator for me.

I always tell my body shop guy I don't know how they can do this every day. It's fun to learn and make progress on my own car, but I don't think I could handle doing body work on someone else's car LOL.

Thank you for the links and the advice. I think I will take your advice and seal up the metal ring on my grommet. I really do not plan on driving this in the rain, but it could happen. So, keeping water out of those kinds of areas is a good precaution.

Thank you as always brother!!!

 

[Black Gold 380R]

Hello everyone,

Well, it was a 3 day weekend. I did get a lot accomplished, but took some time off on Monday to cookout and spend some time with my family.

I did make a plan and try to execute it. I'm still waiting on my clutch from McLeod and I'm waiting on a dial indicator tool so I can get my bellhousing centricity measured. American Powertrain says the center line of the transmission can only be off by .005 in order to avoid side load on the input shaft which will cause damage to the transmission down the road.

Time to watch videos on how to get this done and how to measure for my hydraulic throw-out bearing once the transmission is matted to the block. More first time stuff for me LOL.

Here is what I got done on Saturday.

Focused on wiring and cleaning up the Raptor liner after the painting process.

Okay, here I taped up the underside of the firewall to prepare for mounting my grommet and to prepare for cleaning up the Raptor liner.

Got my grommets marked out. Time to drill into this fresh paint. ....

Okay I couldn't bare to show the drilled paint, so here are the end results LOL.

Some of you may be asking why so many? Well, I need to run my EFI wiring harness to the ECU. I need to run my alternator power/charging cable. I need to run my starter cable and solenoid wire. I need to run my coil wires, my gauge wires and my 02 sensor wires. So, there's a lot that needs to go through here.

I checked this area while the engine and transmission were in. There is plenty of clearance in this area, which will allow me to run the wiring in here clean and without hitting anything.

This is what it looks like from inside the car. The areas where the screws come through are way up under the dash and now they can be used to hold the carpet in place.

Here you can see the area where some over spray made it on to the Raptor liner and an area that was missed completely.

So, I purchased an aerosole can of Raptor liner and touched up the overspray/exposed areas.

All is well now LOL.

 

[Black Gold 380R]

Some of you with a sharp eye also noticed I got my MC, brake lines, Clutch MC and reservoir mounted inside the engine bay as well.

 

[Black Gold 380R]

Then on Sunday I worked on some wiring and started to put my engine together.

Here I have my wiring pulled through the firewall and wrapped in a cable sleeve (This is 3/4" cable sleeve and I purchased it off Amazon).

I was able to get my line lock wiring incorporated in to the sleeve and pushed into the driver's compartment.

I ran a drain snake into the tubing to pull the wiring through. Don't worry, it was new LOL.

Drain snake through the grommet and taped to the wiring.

Wiring pulled through the tubing. That stuff with the blue line is called silicone tape. It is great. It is not sticky, but fuses to itself once it's wrapped around the sleeve. I like this better than electrical tape because electrical tape kind of melts and then makes a mess when you try to take it apart after years of sitting on the wring. When I was unwrapping my factory wiring harnesses the electrical tape was really messy and sticky.

Wires pulled up to the front of the car. Ready to be routed and installed on the appropriate parts (i.e. headlights, parking lights, horns and electric fans). By the way, before I ran the wires I did temporarily hook them up to my lights to make sure they worked. I had a couple wires backwards, but figured it out and got everything to work. So, it's ready to go final now.

 

[Black Gold 380R]

Okay after I finished the wiring project I started on the engine.

Got the timing chain cover mounting surface cleaned up. Also, made sure the #1 piston was at TDC, so it's ready for me to install the distributor when I'm ready.

I don't know about you guys, but I hate when gasket material is sticking out past the part. Looks like _ _ _ _!

That would look like crap on the engine.

Got the gasket marked. Time to trim.

Much better!!!

Now this will work.

Okay, got my oil pump, pick up tube and oil pan gasket installed.

Ready for the oil pan.

Oil pan installed and torqued down. Time to let the sealant set up over night.

 

[Black Gold 380R]

Okay, on Monday morning it was time to take the engine off the engine stand and place it on a floor stand.

Here is the engine on the regular stand and the floor stand mounted to the motor mount bolt holes.

Engine off the stand and on the floor. Now I can get to the back of the engine. By the way this stand is called "Moto Feet" if you need one. Man, it rolls around so easy.

Okay, got my pilot bearing installed and flywheel in place and torqued down. I'm waiting on my McLeod clutch kit (6913-07), pressure plate bolts and dowel pins.

Got my bell housing put on and mocked up my valve covers to keep dust out of the valve train.

Once my dial indicator arrives I'll be able to check how centric my bellhousing is to the crankshaft.

Got my fuel pump block off plate installed and put my oil filter on, again, just to keep dust out.

Once my bellhousing and transmission are installed properly I will be installing the engine for good. The valve covers and oil filter will be coming off prior to the install. I want a minimum of things on the block when I install it to reduce the chance of scratches. I'm also going to line the entire engine bay with cardboard before the install as well.

Is that a light and the end of that tunnel? LOL......

 

[01yellercobra]

It's coming together nicely. I really like those grommets. Might have to steal that idea for future use.

 

[Black Gold 380R]

It's coming together nicely. I really like those grommets. Might have to steal that idea for future use.

Thank you Bob! I really wish I could take credit for them. Now, the layout and amount of grommets used was my idea, but I was referred to those grommets by Holley. In my EFI instructions a part number for that grommet was suggested when running the wiring harness through the firewall.

I googled the part number and that grommet came up with Speedway motors. They work great, but they are not cheap LOL.

 

[CobraBob]

The excitement builds! It's been interesting and fun watching your project evolve. Awesome work and attention to detail.

 

[Grabber70Mach]

Progress is always good, it's going to look smooth when you get everything assembled. Just a question on the screws holding the grommets in, did you consider using pan head bolts with nuts on the inside? I think the tape your referring to is loom tape or friction tape. The electrical tape definitely makes a big sticky mess.

 

[Black Gold 380R]

The excitement builds! It's been interesting and fun watching your project evolve. Awesome work and attention to detail.

Thank you Bob! Yes, I am starting to get more excited. I even made my reservations for San Diego in October already .

I got this in the mail yesterday. Now all I need to do is get my bellhousing centered with my crankshaft and then I can attach my transmission to my engine. Then install it. Installing my engine and transmission are the last major hurdles I have. After that it's just hooking up the electrical and doing the final details to get it running. SWEET!

 

[Black Gold 380R]

Progress is always good, it's going to look smooth when you get everything assembled. Just a question on the screws holding the grommets in, did you consider using pan head bolts with nuts on the inside? I think the tape your referring to is loom tape or friction tape. The electrical tape definitely makes a big sticky mess.

Thank you Grabber! I always enjoy the questions sir. Love to have discussions about the build or how things should be or will be done.

I did not think about using pan head bolts/nuts. Reason being is I'm basically working by myself and using the self taping drilling screws allowed me to install the grommets by myself. I've also used these screws to attach my other grommets and to install holding brackets under the car (i.e. fuel lines, brake lines, clutch lines, emergency brake lines, etc.). So, trying to keep everything uniform.

I do agree there are different types of tape out there and they can be used for different projects. On my set up I used silicone tape as it is not sticky. Loom tape is made out of cloth and has a sticky backing. I was trying to avoid the adhesive type of stuff. Also, the silicone tape is waterproof. So, I used it since it is in the fender well area.

Not saying my way is right or wrong, just the way I decided to do this. Again, this is my first time doing a build to this level. So, I can only go by my research online or if I seen the pros using something on their builds.


Silicone tape:

Loom tape:

 

[01yellercobra]

I used to use that silicone tape in the Navy. Although we called it cherry tape among other names. It worked pretty well for the repairs we did.

 

[Black Gold 380R]

I used to use that silicone tape in the Navy. Although we called it cherry tape among other names. It worked pretty well for the repairs we did.

LMAO!!!! Cherry Tape.... I'm guessing you called it that because the guys who used it where "new" (AKA: A Cherry) and didn't know how to fix something properly?

 

[01yellercobra]

LMAO!!!! Cherry Tape.... I'm guessing you called it that because the guys who used it where "new" (AKA: A Cherry) and didn't know how to fix something properly?

Actually I never got a good answer. I think it was more because the stuff we used was red. We also used to call it *** tape because it would only stick to the back of itself. When you're stuck on a tin can for months it doesn't take much to be entertained.

 

[Black Gold 380R]

Actually I never got a good answer. I think it was more because the stuff we used was red. We also used to call it *** tape because it would only stick to the back of itself. When you're stuck on a tin can for months it doesn't take much to be entertained.

ROFLMAO!!!!! *** tape.... That's classic military verbiage.

I was in the Army for 22 years brother. Believe me, I know the mentality well..... I won't even speak of some of the dumb S#!T I did when I was a private in the Army..... LMAO.....

 

[Grabber70Mach]

Thank you Grabber! I always enjoy the questions sir. Love to have discussions about the build or how things should be or will be done.

I did not think about using pan head bolts/nuts. Reason being is I'm basically working by myself and using the self taping drilling screws allowed me to install the grommets by myself. I've also used these screws to attach my other grommets and to install holding brackets under the car (i.e. fuel lines, brake lines, clutch lines, emergency brake lines, etc.). So, trying to keep everything uniform.

I do agree there are different types of tape out there and they can be used for different projects. On my set up I used silicone tape as it is not sticky. Loom tape is made out of cloth and has a sticky backing. I was trying to avoid the adhesive type of stuff. Also, the silicone tape is waterproof. So, I used it since it is in the fender well area.

Not saying my way is right or wrong, just the way I decided to do this. Again, this is my first time doing a build to this level. So, I can only go by my research online or if I seen the pros using something on their builds.


Silicone tape:
View attachment 1706259


Loom tape:
View attachment 1706260

Thanks for the education on the different tapes. The silicone tape reminds me of a tape that I can't remember the name of. We used.it when I did police car, cell phone, two-way installation years ago. It wasn't sticky but when you stretched it while wrapping it would stick to itself. Might be sorta like the silicone tape you used. I can see where you using a waterproof tape would be of benefit in that area. I can understand with the self tapping screws and working by yourself. I still feel in the long run you'd still be better off with nuts on the inside. Those pointy meat grabbers aren't very forgiving if you have to reach up under there to run other wires, etc. At least consider filing that point down.

 

[Black Gold 380R]

Thanks for the education on the different tapes. The silicone tape reminds me of a tape that I can't remember the name of. We used.it when I did police car, cell phone, two-way installation years ago. It wasn't sticky but when you stretched it while wrapping it would stick to itself. Might be sorta like the silicone tape you used. I can see where you using a waterproof tape would be of benefit in that area. I can understand with the self tapping screws and working by yourself. I still feel in the long run you'd still be better off with nuts on the inside. Those pointy meat grabbers aren't very forgiving if you have to reach up under there to run other wires, etc. At least consider filing that point down.

Yes sir, that tape you describe for the installations of the two way sounds exactly like the silicone tape I used. It is not sticky at all, but once you wrap it on itself it sticks. Have no clue how it works, but it does LOL.

I hear you 100% on the screws. They are only 1/2 an inch. Once they go through the grommet, body metal and get into my thick sound deadening material there is not much left protruding. Once the carpet is placed over it I believe it will be covered. However, I may trim them down so I'm not "bit" later. God knows I don't need any self inflicted cuts or scrapes LOL.