Okay, over the weekend I got the rest of the items out of the engine bay and removed the front suspension. Then I started on removing the shock towers. Made some good progress.
Black Gold 380R's 65 Mustang Build Thread
- Thread starter Black Gold 380R
- Start date
Okay, made a lot more progress this weekend. I need to replace the front part of the passenger side frame rail. However, before I cut any more I want to get some parts for mock up and tack them in place before removing any more metal.
And yes I took all my measurements before cutting. So, I know where everything goes back once the new metal is in.
Next weekend I'll most likely focus on sanding the area to bare metal while I'm waiting on parts.
And yes I took all my measurements before cutting. So, I know where everything goes back once the new metal is in.
Next weekend I'll most likely focus on sanding the area to bare metal while I'm waiting on parts.
That's a lot of metal to replace. Kudos to you Glenn.
Thanks Bob! A lot of my family think I bit off more than I can chew, but I think I will surprise a lot of people when they see it done 
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Okay everyone. Made more progress over the weekend. Mainly got the last bits of metal off the frame rails and then started sanding everything down to bare metal.
I received my new passenger side front frame rail and the radiator support (I tried to take some close ups of the original frame rail so you can see why I'm replacing a portion of it). I'm also waiting on my Mustangs to Fear front suspension and a couple other items and then the welding process will begin.
The good thing is progression takes place every weekend…………
I received my new passenger side front frame rail and the radiator support (I tried to take some close ups of the original frame rail so you can see why I'm replacing a portion of it). I'm also waiting on my Mustangs to Fear front suspension and a couple other items and then the welding process will begin.
The good thing is progression takes place every weekend
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Still waiting on the new passenger side frame rail. The one I had did not fit as it was too wide. The frame rail is supposed to arrive today.
Made some progress over the weekend by wrapping the car in spark resistant paper. I wrapped almost the whole car to protect the paint while I'm working around it since I'm in a limited space. Don't want to accidently nick the paint as I'm walking by with a tool or metal part.
I also got a magnetic laser level to help me ensure I line up new metal in the correct place.
Made some progress over the weekend by wrapping the car in spark resistant paper. I wrapped almost the whole car to protect the paint while I'm working around it since I'm in a limited space. Don't want to accidently nick the paint as I'm walking by with a tool or metal part.
I also got a magnetic laser level to help me ensure I line up new metal in the correct place.
Looking good
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Thanks Brady!!! Got a long way to go though
…..LOL
Okay everyone,
I've actually been on vacation for a few days, so I was able to make some serious progress. I would like to say that this is the "FIRST" time I have ever done anything like this. I have no formal training or experience with welding or metal fabrication. However, I have been watching car shows and YouTube videos for years and have a "general" knowledge of the concept. So, I am learning from my mistakes and as I go. Causes me to do some things twice, but I'd rather do it twice and be right than leaving it messed up LOL.
I finally received my new frame rail. Here you can see the differences in the bad one vs. the new one. The bad one is the mini rail and you can see it is wider than the new one. The bad one is actually so wide it fits over the new one that is the correct size. I decided to keep the bad one to use as patch metal.
New full frame rail (However, I'll only be using the front half)
Side by side comparison. If you look close you can see there is more material below the holes on the bad rail (Short one on the bottom)
The bad one is so wide it actually fits over the new one.
Here you can see how much wider the bad one is.
I've actually been on vacation for a few days, so I was able to make some serious progress. I would like to say that this is the "FIRST" time I have ever done anything like this. I have no formal training or experience with welding or metal fabrication. However, I have been watching car shows and YouTube videos for years and have a "general" knowledge of the concept. So, I am learning from my mistakes and as I go. Causes me to do some things twice, but I'd rather do it twice and be right than leaving it messed up LOL.
I finally received my new frame rail. Here you can see the differences in the bad one vs. the new one. The bad one is the mini rail and you can see it is wider than the new one. The bad one is actually so wide it fits over the new one that is the correct size. I decided to keep the bad one to use as patch metal.
New full frame rail (However, I'll only be using the front half)
Side by side comparison. If you look close you can see there is more material below the holes on the bad rail (Short one on the bottom)
The bad one is so wide it actually fits over the new one.
Here you can see how much wider the bad one is.
Okay, let the major surgery begin LOL. I cut out the bad piece and prepped the rail to receive the new metal. Got everything measured and lined up with my laser level and then took the cutting wheel to it. Too late to turn back now...……..
Okay got everything measured and marked where I want to make my cuts. I want the inner rail cut short and the outer rail cut longer so the welds are not lined up and are not in the same place. This "should" make the rail stronger than one continuous weld.
Here you can see the outer rail cut lines are outside the inner rail.
Then I lined up my laser level to ensure I put the new rail back exactly where the old one was.
Then I took the cutting wheel to it and hoped I got it right LOL.
Look at all the dirt on the floor. I think that is dirt from 1965 LOL.
Then I mocked up the new metal and got everything lined up and clamped in and ready to weld up. Some of you professional welders may notice the gap (remember I'm new and learning). I'm not too worried about it because I can fill it with weld and it will be supported by thicker metal that will be attached to the rail for support at a later date.
Even though the laser says it's right, I placed a level on it just to make sure. Level says it is dead on.
Okay got everything measured and marked where I want to make my cuts. I want the inner rail cut short and the outer rail cut longer so the welds are not lined up and are not in the same place. This "should" make the rail stronger than one continuous weld.
Here you can see the outer rail cut lines are outside the inner rail.
Then I lined up my laser level to ensure I put the new rail back exactly where the old one was.
Then I took the cutting wheel to it and hoped I got it right LOL.
Look at all the dirt on the floor. I think that is dirt from 1965 LOL.
Then I mocked up the new metal and got everything lined up and clamped in and ready to weld up. Some of you professional welders may notice the gap (remember I'm new and learning). I'm not too worried about it because I can fill it with weld and it will be supported by thicker metal that will be attached to the rail for support at a later date.
Even though the laser says it's right, I placed a level on it just to make sure. Level says it is dead on.
Then I got it welded in and mocked up my Mustangs to Fear cross member to ensure it fit.
Here you can see the cross member does fit between the rails.
If you look at where I welded on the passenger side you can see the plate on the cross member goes across the weld and will be welded to the new metal and old metal making my repair even stronger.
Here is the gap on the passenger side.
Here is the gap on the drivers side.
Again I used my laser level and used the top corners of my engine mounts as a guide to make sure it was in the right place.
Passenger side engine mount location.
Drivers side engine mount location (Matches passenger side).
Again, even though the laser says it's right I used the level and again it is dead on.
Here you can see the cross member does fit between the rails.
If you look at where I welded on the passenger side you can see the plate on the cross member goes across the weld and will be welded to the new metal and old metal making my repair even stronger.
Here is the gap on the passenger side.
Here is the gap on the drivers side.
Again I used my laser level and used the top corners of my engine mounts as a guide to make sure it was in the right place.
Passenger side engine mount location.
Drivers side engine mount location (Matches passenger side).
Again, even though the laser says it's right I used the level and again it is dead on.
After I made sure it fit I removed it and finished up the inner frame rail. I want to smooth out the engine bay. So, no unnecessary holes. So, time to patch things up.
This is the drivers side. Got it marked up and ready to cut out the metal.
Here you can see the patch panel in place. Notice how much better my cutting and fitting has gotten?
Patch panel welded in and smoothed out.
Here are the holes on the passenger side frame rail. I did not want to cut out the new metal. So, since I had access to the back of the inner frame rail I placed a plate behind the holes and filled in the holes with weld.
Here the holes have been filled and grinded smooth.
Here you can see both inner frame rails have been completed to this point. Later I will smooth them out with body filler and sanding.
This is the drivers side. Got it marked up and ready to cut out the metal.
Here you can see the patch panel in place. Notice how much better my cutting and fitting has gotten?
Patch panel welded in and smoothed out.
Here are the holes on the passenger side frame rail. I did not want to cut out the new metal. So, since I had access to the back of the inner frame rail I placed a plate behind the holes and filled in the holes with weld.
Here the holes have been filled and grinded smooth.
Here you can see both inner frame rails have been completed to this point. Later I will smooth them out with body filler and sanding.
Coming along nicely Glenn.
FYI, MBTB has been canceled for this year.
FYI, MBTB has been canceled for this year.
Finally I got started on the outside frame rail on the passenger side.
Here is the inside of the inner frame rail. I was not trying to be pretty with my welds here. Was focused more on making them strong. Then I painted the inside with weld thru primer to help with preventing rust (Note: those holes will be covered by the cross member side plate).
Got the new outer frame rail cut and drilled spot weld holes and the clamped it into place. Again, notice how much better my cutting and fitment is getting as I consider this a complex piece (well, at least it was for me).
Just another angle. This is as far as I have gotten. I will be using this extended weekend to get more done. Stay tuned.....
Here is the inside of the inner frame rail. I was not trying to be pretty with my welds here. Was focused more on making them strong. Then I painted the inside with weld thru primer to help with preventing rust (Note: those holes will be covered by the cross member side plate).
Got the new outer frame rail cut and drilled spot weld holes and the clamped it into place. Again, notice how much better my cutting and fitment is getting as I consider this a complex piece (well, at least it was for me).
Just another angle. This is as far as I have gotten. I will be using this extended weekend to get more done. Stay tuned.....
Thanks Bob! It's been hard work, but fun at the same time.
Guys on TV (Iron Resurrection and Bitchin Rides) make it look fast and easy LMAO!!!
Sorry to hear about MBTB
. Hopefully it will be back on next year when I'm ready to take the 65 out there …...
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Well done sir! You make it look easy too. I'll go down this path eventually with my '65 coupe and I always find threads like this encouraging.
Thank you both for you positive comments. They are greatly appreciated. I'm trying to go slow to make sure everything is done right. After my day is done, I go inside and take a shower and grab something to eat. Later in the evening I go back into the garage to look at what needs to be done next. Then I try to figure out how to best handle the next task. My wife thinks I'm in there admiring my work LMAO!!! Truth is I'm just trying to figure out my next move...……….
Okay everyone,
Since it was the 4th of July weekend I was able to make some pretty good progress.
First I finished up the frame rails where the new cross member and shock mounts will be mounted. I consider these pieces the main structural parts since they hold the motor and my front suspension. So, I took my time and tried to get my welds deeply penetrated to ensure it will not break or come apart.
Drivers side frame rail notched for shock mount.
Passenger side mocked up for notching.
Notch created for passenger side shock mount.
Frame rails ready for cross member and shock mounts to be mocked up.
Cross member and shock mounts mocked up. All measurements have been verified and using angle iron to ensure the shock mounts are level to the car and each other.
The camera isn't straight, but the level bubble is...…….
Here the cross member and shock mounts have been tack welded into place.
Passenger side initial spot welds and grinding completed.
Drivers side initial spot welds and grinding completed.
Since it was the 4th of July weekend I was able to make some pretty good progress.
First I finished up the frame rails where the new cross member and shock mounts will be mounted. I consider these pieces the main structural parts since they hold the motor and my front suspension. So, I took my time and tried to get my welds deeply penetrated to ensure it will not break or come apart.
Drivers side frame rail notched for shock mount.
Passenger side mocked up for notching.
Notch created for passenger side shock mount.
Frame rails ready for cross member and shock mounts to be mocked up.
Cross member and shock mounts mocked up. All measurements have been verified and using angle iron to ensure the shock mounts are level to the car and each other.
The camera isn't straight, but the level bubble is...…….
Here the cross member and shock mounts have been tack welded into place.
Passenger side initial spot welds and grinding completed.
Drivers side initial spot welds and grinding completed.
Okay,
Once I got the initial spot welds done I finished welding the cross member and shock mounts in. I wasn't ready to grind the welds down yet (grinding is a lot more labor intensive than welding LOL). So, I moved on to removing the old radiator support cross bar since the new cross member is holding the frame rails in place.
Here is the old radiator support cross bar in place (you can see the welds on the cross member and shock mounts have not been cleaned up yet).
I used my plasma cutter to remove the radiator support bar.
Just another angle of the radiator support bar cut out.
Drivers side support bar getting ready to have spot welds drilled out.
Passenger side spot welds drilled out and ready for clean up.
Drivers side cleaned up.
Passenger side cleaned up.
Once I got the initial spot welds done I finished welding the cross member and shock mounts in. I wasn't ready to grind the welds down yet (grinding is a lot more labor intensive than welding LOL). So, I moved on to removing the old radiator support cross bar since the new cross member is holding the frame rails in place.
Here is the old radiator support cross bar in place (you can see the welds on the cross member and shock mounts have not been cleaned up yet).
I used my plasma cutter to remove the radiator support bar.
Just another angle of the radiator support bar cut out.
Drivers side support bar getting ready to have spot welds drilled out.
Passenger side spot welds drilled out and ready for clean up.
Drivers side cleaned up.
Passenger side cleaned up.
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