Black Gold 380R's 65 Mustang Build Thread

Black Gold 380R

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Hello All,

One minor update. I dropped off my center console to my body/upholstery shop yesterday.

I was talking to the owner and we threw several ideas around.

Here they are in no particular order.

  • I stated I wanted the center console upholstered in black leather with red stitching
  • Owner suggested we body work the fiberglass and paint the center console black with red striping along the edges where the stitching would go.
  • Assistant MGR suggested we place leather on the sides as my seat or my belt/keys or something would scratch the paint on the sides and then we paint the center.
  • I suggested we put the leather on the side and then paint the center silver to match my glove box door and gauge cluster, but assistant MGR said my cup holders/buttons would get lost in the silver.
  • Body shop guy came out and I told him about my idea for the Terminator EFI touch screen to be mounted in the console in front of the cup holders. He suggested cutting a hole and then mounting it with some type of magnet system to where I push on it and then it pops up at an angle. Kind of like an sunglasses case does in modern cars. I liked that idea.

In the end the upholstery guy was not there. So, the owner took my center console and said he would see what he has to say. After we looked at the project closer they said the center console needed a lot of body work to get straight and said where I mounted the screws to mount the stereo would need a lot of work to fix/cover up.

So, I think we are going to go with the upholstery route, but the owner will call me later this week to let me know what the upholstery guy says or if they come up with any other ideas.

I can't wait to see this thing done............
 
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Black Gold 380R

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Hello All,

Well as they say..... An idle mind is the devils playground LOL.

I've been thinking about my gauges. I was wondering if I should upgrade my gauge cluster to Speedhut gauges so "ALL" my gauges will match.

What do you guys think? It's going to cost me almost $800 to order new gauges from Speedhut (i.e. oil pressure, volts, fuel level, water temp and speedometer). Then I'll have to rewire the gauge cluster as well. Not a big deal, but more work and mainly more MONEY...... However, I could always sell my current Autometer set up to recoup some funds.

To be honest I'm leaning towards getting the matching gauges, but wanted some other opinions. You guys know me and my OCD. Just wondering if looking at 2 different sets of gauges will drive me nuts later LMAO!!!!

So, what say you guys and please be honest. If I'm over reacting and wasting money please let me know.

Here is what they currently look like together. Not bad in my opinion, but maybe better if they were all the same.
20210312_150827_resized.jpg



Here is my current speedometer. It's the American Muscle series from Autometer.
American Muscle Speedometer.jpg



This is the matching speedometer to my current series of Speedhut gauges. Complete with matching G.T. 427 logo. This one has more features such as turn signal indicators and high beam indicator. It also has peak recall of max speed and service alerts such as Change Oil, Rotate Tires, and General Service. My current speedometer does not have these features. And if I go with a new speedometer my mileage will be set back to zero LOL.
Speedhut Speedometer.jpg
 

Grabber70Mach

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Welllllll since you asked but already answered your question, I'll just say one thing OCD. It would bug me if it was mine so I'll give it a third, All in favor say eyee. There you have it, it's unanimous. Get'er done.
 

Black Gold 380R

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I'd go with the matching gauges just for the cleaner look. The small details eventually add up.

Matching, you know it will always be in the back of your mind.

Welllllll since you asked but already answered your question, I'll just say one thing OCD. It would bug me if it was mine so I'll give it a third, All in favor say eyee. There you have it, it's unanimous. Get'er done.

It would be in mine.

Damn it!!! When you're right you're right and you guys are right LMAO!!!

As you can tell I have already been thinking about it which is why I asked the question. I guess this is why they say figure out your budget and then double it LMAO!!!!

Hopefully I will not have too much trouble selling my old gauges because selling those will really ease the pain of buying new ones LOL.

Oh and for the record I already have everything set up in my cart over at Speedhut. I knew you guys were going to say make them match LMAO!!!
 

Black Gold 380R

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Okay all,

This weekend I wired up the connectors for my center console to the car.

Then I decided to redo my side windows. Ever since I built the car the first time my windows never went up and down smoothly. I thought it was the new felt I installed and caused them to be tight. I thought after I broke them in, so to speak, they would free up and work better. Well, that never happened and it was so tight my rollers would actually pop off the tracks or I needed to roll the window crank with one hand and pull up on the window with the other.

So, I removed the windows and the regulator mechanisms. I found on the drivers side, which was my really bad window, that part of the seal on the front track folded over and was causing the window to bind. On the passenger side I found that part of the rear felt was torn. I don't think it was jammed in the track like the front window, but I do feel it was contributing to the tightness.

I ordered new regulators and rollers. I think my drivers side regulator was in decent shape, but the passenger side was shot as it was really loose at the gears. Hopefully the new ones will be here this week.


Okay got my connectors connected to the car side. Now all my connectors to the center console are installed. The only thing left to do is hook up the trigger wires to the line lock and cut outs, which are not ready to be wired up yet.
20210320_111418_resized.jpg


Here is the passenger door after the window was removed. Next was going to be the removal of the window regulator.
20210321_085213_resized.jpg


Passenger window after the track was cleaned up.
20210321_085231_resized.jpg


Close up of the track after cleaning. Research showed that white lithium grease is NOT to be used on this area because it dries and becomes hard. I was guilty of this. So, another contributing factor to my problem was I was utilizing the wrong type of lubricant.
20210321_085247_resized.jpg


Driver's window after track cleaning.
20210321_102833_resized.jpg



20210321_102821_resized.jpg



Here are the window regulators. You can see how nice the driver's side looks. The passenger side (top) is in bad shape. You can see all the white lithium grease all over the regulators.
20210321_102927_resized.jpg


Here I placed tape on the top of the door. The windows don't rub here on the way out, but putting them back in might cause some problems with scratching. So, time to add some insurance LOL.
20210321_102722_resized.jpg
 

Black Gold 380R

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Okay,

I made a couple more videos. The first one shows my passenger side door popper operation. The popper was working on this side, but the cable had too much slack in it, so the door would not open all the way. It works great now.

The other is below and of my engine compartment....

 
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Grabber70Mach

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Nice to see think moving along. So what is the proper grease to use for the window track and mechanisms? You'll definitely be pleased with the gauges all being the same.
 

Black Gold 380R

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So what is the proper grease to use for the window track and mechanisms?

According to the video I watched on how to remove and install the 65 Mustang side windows they suggested a synthetic based grease.

They recommended this stuff (okay bring on the wise cracks LMAO!!):
Super Lube.jpg


This is the video I watched (The product is discussed at 4:00 and the demonstration is at 6:30):

 

01yellercobra

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I've used axle grease in the past with good results. I imagine a grease made for boat trailer bearings would be really good as it's extra tacky to stay in place better.
 

Black Gold 380R

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I've used axle grease in the past with good results. I imagine a grease made for boat trailer bearings would be really good as it's extra tacky to stay in place better.

I thought about the axle grease Bob, but it's thick and will probably be messy when I try to reinstall the regulators. I purchased that Super Lube in spray. Hopefully I can pinpoint the lubricant and keep it from getting all over the place. Then once it's in place I can use the spray nozzle to put a little more in places with high contact/friction.
 

Grabber70Mach

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According to the video I watched on how to remove and install the 65 Mustang side windows they suggested a synthetic based grease.

They recommended this stuff (okay bring on the wise cracks LMAO!!):
View attachment 1695258

This is the video I watched (The product is discussed at 4:00 and the demonstration is at 6:30):

Hey at least it didn't start with Astro.....
919ca9943c70514a644df7df0b8280b5.jpg
 

Black Gold 380R

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Okay all,

I have been learning how to create videos and upload them. I mentioned a video of my engine compartment in a previous post. Here are the new versions of the video. This is the same as previously posted, but with better music/sound :D.

Experimenting with Music

Experimenting with sound clip.
 
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