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Black Gold 380R's 1957 Thunderbird Thread
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<blockquote data-quote="Black Gold 380R" data-source="post: 16969252" data-attributes="member: 70025"><p>Hello everyone,</p><p></p><p>Well the work/upgrades continue on this car.</p><p></p><p>I ordered a Carb Cheater kit back in July and I received it last week (NOTE: if you don't know what a Carb Cheater is look for it on YouTube. Plenty of info there). However, on a short note it is supposed to adjust your AFR's in order to help your engine run more efficiently. I even had to install an O2 sensor LOL. And I use an app on my phone to turn it on and off. It even has a data log function. Funny having newer technology on a classic car.</p><p></p><p>So, I installed it this past weekend. It actually works really well. You can actually hear the engine adjust when turning it on and going back to normal state when shutting it off.</p><p></p><p>It consists of an O2 sensor, a computer box, IAC valve/MAP and a carb spacer plate. First thing I had to do was determine where I wanted the computer box and IAC valve/MAP mounted. So, I picked this spot on the inner fender apron.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1814249[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>So, I got them mounted and ran my wiring around to figure out how to best rout them. I only had to hook up 4 wires (12v power and ground and coil positive and negative) and the O2 sensor. The pig tails for the IAC valve/MAP worked great since I placed it next to the computer box. The kit does come with extensions if you mount the computer box and IAC valve/MAP further away from each other.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1814250[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I then mounted the carburetor base plate.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1814251[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The kit comes with 3/8 rubber tubing to run from the base plate to the IAC valve/MAP, but I thought it would look like crap. So, I ordered some 3/8 hard line. I then bent it to contour with the vacuum hard line for my power brake booster. I felt this would look cleaner and "blend" in with the factory components. I even used old style 3/8 clamps to blend in even further.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1814252[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1814253[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>When connecting to the IAC valve/MAP the port from the front of the carb goes to the main valve and the one coming off what I believe is a MAP type sensor goes to the rear port of the carb plate.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1814254[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Hard lines complete.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1814255[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Black Gold 380R, post: 16969252, member: 70025"] Hello everyone, Well the work/upgrades continue on this car. I ordered a Carb Cheater kit back in July and I received it last week (NOTE: if you don't know what a Carb Cheater is look for it on YouTube. Plenty of info there). However, on a short note it is supposed to adjust your AFR's in order to help your engine run more efficiently. I even had to install an O2 sensor LOL. And I use an app on my phone to turn it on and off. It even has a data log function. Funny having newer technology on a classic car. So, I installed it this past weekend. It actually works really well. You can actually hear the engine adjust when turning it on and going back to normal state when shutting it off. It consists of an O2 sensor, a computer box, IAC valve/MAP and a carb spacer plate. First thing I had to do was determine where I wanted the computer box and IAC valve/MAP mounted. So, I picked this spot on the inner fender apron. [ATTACH type="full" alt="20231021_095047_resized.jpg"]1814249[/ATTACH] So, I got them mounted and ran my wiring around to figure out how to best rout them. I only had to hook up 4 wires (12v power and ground and coil positive and negative) and the O2 sensor. The pig tails for the IAC valve/MAP worked great since I placed it next to the computer box. The kit does come with extensions if you mount the computer box and IAC valve/MAP further away from each other. [ATTACH type="full" alt="20231021_120021_resized.jpg"]1814250[/ATTACH] I then mounted the carburetor base plate. [ATTACH type="full" alt="20231021_121444_resized.jpg"]1814251[/ATTACH] The kit comes with 3/8 rubber tubing to run from the base plate to the IAC valve/MAP, but I thought it would look like crap. So, I ordered some 3/8 hard line. I then bent it to contour with the vacuum hard line for my power brake booster. I felt this would look cleaner and "blend" in with the factory components. I even used old style 3/8 clamps to blend in even further. [ATTACH type="full" alt="20231021_130129_resized.jpg"]1814252[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="20231021_130134_resized.jpg"]1814253[/ATTACH] When connecting to the IAC valve/MAP the port from the front of the carb goes to the main valve and the one coming off what I believe is a MAP type sensor goes to the rear port of the carb plate. [ATTACH type="full" alt="20231021_130150_resized.jpg"]1814254[/ATTACH] Hard lines complete. [ATTACH type="full" alt="20231021_130156_resized.jpg"]1814255[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Black Gold 380R's 1957 Thunderbird Thread
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