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Black Gold 380R's 1957 Thunderbird Thread
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<blockquote data-quote="Black Gold 380R" data-source="post: 16879853" data-attributes="member: 70025"><p>Once the T-Bird was back at my house I started the tear down process. When doing this I noticed the valves that were stuck open had closed again. At first I thought I might of had bent valves, but it looks more like it may be just a lot of carbon build up.</p><p></p><p>After lifting the heads some water got into the cylinder area. I cleaned it all out immediately. Used my air hose to blow the cylinders out and then sprayed WD-40 all on the cylinder walls (that's what you see sitting in the cylinders). I got the WD-40 puddles out and just left a light coat of WD-40 so nothing rusts while I'm waiting for my heads to be rebuilt.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1781473[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1781474[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>It's hard to see in the photos, but the cylinder walls still have a very faint crosshatch pattern. There is absolutely "NO" lip on the cylinder walls from the rings. I ran my fingernail in there and no lip at all. Now, it does have a light carbon ring at the top of the cylinder walls, but I can remove that. Therefore, at this point I am "NOT" dealing with the bottom end at this time.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1781475[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1781476[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1781477[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>After I got it all cleaned up and a light coat of WD-40 on everything I put a plastic trash bag over the exposed area to protect it and help keep it clean.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1781478[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>When I took a closer look at the heads I did notice it looked like a couple water passages were blocked. Now, one issue this car did have was run on or Dieseling (i.e. the car kept trying to run when the ignition was shut off). I could never figure it out. I tried adjusting the timing when I did the new carburetor and tune up, but it still did it.</p><p></p><p>Now that I seen the water passages blocked in the heads I'm thinking the heads created hot spots that caused the run on. Hopefully the heads being completely rebuilt will fix this issue.</p><p></p><p>I asked my engine builder (the one who built my 427 stroker for my 65) to completely rebuilt the heads. He said he would and do things such as magna fluxing the heads to check for cracks. He said he's really back logged and to rebuild my heads will take approximately 4 weeks to get them back. No problem for me. Car's not going anywhere LOL. So, this is where I'm at currently. </p><p></p><p>Once I get my heads back or any information from my engine builder I'll post up.</p><p></p><p>Anyone need some T-Bird parts? LOL J/K. I'm going to get these all cleaned up, some new hardware and some stuff re-powder coated. Should look like new when I'm done.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1781479[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1781480[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1781481[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Black Gold 380R, post: 16879853, member: 70025"] Once the T-Bird was back at my house I started the tear down process. When doing this I noticed the valves that were stuck open had closed again. At first I thought I might of had bent valves, but it looks more like it may be just a lot of carbon build up. After lifting the heads some water got into the cylinder area. I cleaned it all out immediately. Used my air hose to blow the cylinders out and then sprayed WD-40 all on the cylinder walls (that's what you see sitting in the cylinders). I got the WD-40 puddles out and just left a light coat of WD-40 so nothing rusts while I'm waiting for my heads to be rebuilt. [ATTACH type="full" alt="20230214_161903.jpg"]1781473[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="20230214_161916.jpg"]1781474[/ATTACH] It's hard to see in the photos, but the cylinder walls still have a very faint crosshatch pattern. There is absolutely "NO" lip on the cylinder walls from the rings. I ran my fingernail in there and no lip at all. Now, it does have a light carbon ring at the top of the cylinder walls, but I can remove that. Therefore, at this point I am "NOT" dealing with the bottom end at this time. [ATTACH type="full" alt="20230214_161932.jpg"]1781475[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="20230215_124115.jpg"]1781476[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="20230215_124133.jpg"]1781477[/ATTACH] After I got it all cleaned up and a light coat of WD-40 on everything I put a plastic trash bag over the exposed area to protect it and help keep it clean. [ATTACH type="full" alt="20230215_124819.jpg"]1781478[/ATTACH] When I took a closer look at the heads I did notice it looked like a couple water passages were blocked. Now, one issue this car did have was run on or Dieseling (i.e. the car kept trying to run when the ignition was shut off). I could never figure it out. I tried adjusting the timing when I did the new carburetor and tune up, but it still did it. Now that I seen the water passages blocked in the heads I'm thinking the heads created hot spots that caused the run on. Hopefully the heads being completely rebuilt will fix this issue. I asked my engine builder (the one who built my 427 stroker for my 65) to completely rebuilt the heads. He said he would and do things such as magna fluxing the heads to check for cracks. He said he's really back logged and to rebuild my heads will take approximately 4 weeks to get them back. No problem for me. Car's not going anywhere LOL. So, this is where I'm at currently. Once I get my heads back or any information from my engine builder I'll post up. Anyone need some T-Bird parts? LOL J/K. I'm going to get these all cleaned up, some new hardware and some stuff re-powder coated. Should look like new when I'm done. [ATTACH type="full" alt="20230215_124236.jpg"]1781479[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="20230215_124200.jpg"]1781480[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="20230215_124223.jpg"]1781481[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Black Gold 380R's 1957 Thunderbird Thread
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