Best way to remove body flex?

ImRambo

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Whats up guys. I have an 01 cobra. Current suspension mods are HR races (no isos) , stock struts, Bilstein HDs in the rear, complete FTB kit in my irs, 335s, and KB camber bolts up front. The car handles considerably better than it did stock but I still feel like the car has waay too much body roll. I feel pretty dumb now for not getting FLSFCs first but I have a pair of MMs in the mail right now. Besides those, where should I go next? Strut tower/shock tower braces? I cant really do a cage, its still my DD. Basically what would I benefit most by next? (Regarding the subframe connectors, Im sure those will help ALOT).
 
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SVTORANGE

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I did not read that you had SubFrame connectors?
If that is the case buy a set from MM and that will take care of all your flexing issues.
Ahh your last sentence is correct do the subs next
 

jymboslice

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You can also do one of those MM 4 point roll bars that do not have door bars or the harness bar
 

GCubersoldat

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Strut tower brace made a noticeable difference when I installed mine, tamed the front end down so it Didnt feel like a boat in hard turns. Subframe connectors, strut tower brace, sway bars. Done.
 

ImRambo

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Strut tower brace made a noticeable difference when I installed mine, tamed the front end down so it Didnt feel like a boat in hard turns. Subframe connectors, strut tower brace, sway bars. Done.

Eibachs swaybar kit? Or another brand?
 
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ImRambo

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Too add to that Im dropped about 2.6/7 " up front. Im assuming Im having terrible bumpsteer considering most are saying even a 1.5" drop needs them.
 
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GCubersoldat

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Eibachs swaybar kit? Or another brand?

Eibach makes some amazing suspension parts and heard nothing but good reviews about them.

Had their sway bars on my 2001 bullitt and the car felt like it was on rails...that plus subframe connectors and you'll be cutting the corners on the track like a bawse(no pun intended)
 

ImRambo

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Eibach makes some amazing suspension parts and heard nothing but good reviews about them.

Had their sway bars on my 2001 bullitt and the car felt like it was on rails...that plus subframe connectors and you'll be cutting the corners on the track like a bawse(no pun intended)

ha ok. Ill probably head that route after. Ill keep you updated on the difference. I would like to do a little autocross sometime.
 

frijol79

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I have steeda subframe connectors along with front and rear shock tower struts on my Mach 1. That helps alot
 

blacksheep-1

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Subframe connectors and a roll bar (even if it is not a cage) will do wonders. Yes you probably have a crap ton of bump steer, try 2x ball joints and the bump steer kit, you will probably have to use offset rack bushings as well to fix that. I prefer urethane rack bushings because they have some "give" in them so they will work with slightly out of alignment rack perches on the subframe, IMO the aluminum ones would be better but if the perches are not perfect they will stress the rack.

here's a low buck roll bar for you, using an existing "ricer bar" that came with the car. The "ricer bar" was incorporated in the main hoop by welding and then 3/4 tube bracing was added for reinforcement.

daLGXfel.jpg


the "ricer bar" attached to the side of the car at the "B" post and bolted to the seatbelt mounts.

IJfoWDNl.jpg


the roll bar hoop and floor braces

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down tubes

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down tube bracing

kzvdPJWl.jpg


with rear seat delete...
to be a "real" bar it would need a cross brace but that would completely negate any access to the back seat area. This dramatically improved chassis stiffness, I could jack up the car on the subframe connector just in front of the left rear tire and it raised the entire car up with the exception of the right front high enough to put jack stands on all 3 corners.

the final product..

mz3XXHWl.jpg



One afterthought, I had to heat the interior panels up with a heat gun to "sneak" them past the bar and back into place on the sides.
 
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