Best stock replacement speakers?

kingnut

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thanks for the info on the sound deadening material fellas. everytime i read this thread my "keep it stock" mindset goes out the window. err.
 

mhyjek

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Installed JL 5X7, What a difference!! also looked inside the the speaker mount and to my surprise found some sort of ford type of dynomat. 2013 gt brembo
 

kingnut

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I tied into the existing wiring at the amp plug as it's not much fun running new wires into the doors. I did use both sets of the factory wires and just crimped both into a single connector. Again, there are two sets of wires to each factory speaker due to the dvc setup. This also allowed me to keep the factory seal/grommet in the speaker enclosure. Pic in post 34 kind of expains all this. Unfortunately you do have to cut the factory wiring but it saves a lot of time and frustration.

I replaced the upper door speakers with JL C5's. They aren't the cheapest but sound great once they've broken in a little. At some point I want to play around with tweeter location but not been at the top of my priority list.

viking are you not running a 4 channel amp for your highs and mids?
 

dirtyd88

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Completely forgot about this thread when I made mine last night. :bash:

I order some Pioneer TS-6802Rs from Amazon earlier today, and will hopefully be installing them this weekend. THey seem to be a decent 2-way for the money, and all the reviews I've read say that are excellent stock replacements that sound great even on the factory deck power. I will eventually be hooking them up to a Alpine MRP-F550 amp, but for now they should do. Next up, HD Radio integration.
 

TheVikingRL

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Hey Kingnut,

No, been low on my list to amp these. I wanted to RTA the car first and decide on crossover points between door subs/midbass and the C5's. Replaced the amps for both door and trunk subs and just used factory line-out's for each. Mids/highs still on the factory radio. I did wind up adding in an Audio Control Matrix Plus since the factory line level signal is so weak. I also have a EQX waiting to go in once I get around to it.

Recently added a PAC AOEM-FRD24 so I could also RTA the factory settings for each speaker output. It appears that the front/rear speakers are still sending full range even with the Shaker option. But that's just a guess at this point. If it does then this simplifies the connections as I can ignore all the sub outs. Otherwise I need to sum these along with the main speaker lines first. Would like to use an IDS tool to try reprogramming the radio with different options/settings but can't yet figure out all the codes.

Sorry for the rambling here, probably a bit more than you were asking:)
 
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kingnut

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Hey Kingnut,

No, been low on my list to amp these. I wanted to RTA the car first and decide on crossover points between door subs/midbass and the C5's. Replaced the amps for both door and trunk subs and just used factory line-out's for each. Mids/highs still on the factory radio. I did wind up adding in an Audio Control Matrix Plus since the factory line level signal is so weak. I also have a EQX waiting to go in once I get around to it.

Recently added a PAC AOEM-FRD24 so I could also RTA the factory settings for each speaker output. It appears that the front/rear speakers are still sending full range even with the Shaker option. But that's just a guess at this point. If it does then this simplifies the connections as I can ignore all the sub outs. Otherwise I need to sum these along with the main speaker lines first. Would like to use an IDS tool to try reprogramming the radio with different options/settings but can't yet figure out all the codes.

Sorry for the rambling here, probably a bit more than you were asking:)

no worries. ive been looking at some amps with a small footprint with atleast 100w x 4 RMS @ 4ohm. check out NVX JAD800.4 (JAD8004) Full Range Class D 4-Channel Car Amplifier

PPI, POLK, NVX and a couple others are using the same board with different components on them. that amp above is tiny (6-7/10"W x 10-4/10"L x 1-8/10"H) and can crank out 125w x 4 RMS @ 4ohm and 200w x 4 @ 2ohms. im tired of high powered amps having to be huge. there are alot of new amps dropping that are a smaller footprint with a lot of power.
 
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TheVikingRL

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I hadn't heard of those guys before. That looks like a nice amp, especially for what they're charging. Their 5 channel amp looks pretty nice as well and has a remote level control input.

I'm using the XD400/4 in bridged mode (200x2) for the door subs currently. It's mounted up under the deck to the right of the RR speaker. It's also a compact amp (2" x 8.5" x 7") so it hides nicely.

XD400/4 - Car Audio - Amplifiers - XD - JL Audio
 

kingnut

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I hadn't heard of those guys before. That looks like a nice amp, especially for what they're charging. Their 5 channel amp looks pretty nice as well and has a remote level control input.

I'm using the XD400/4 in bridged mode (200x2) for the door subs currently. It's mounted up under the deck to the right of the RR speaker. It's also a compact amp (2" x 8.5" x 7") so it hides nicely.

XD400/4 - Car Audio - Amplifiers - XD - JL Audio

Yeah im thinking of buying that 5 channel and bridging it down to a 3ch. That way i could power 4 JL 6x8 at 2ohm @ 125RMS x 2ch. And the JL FRZ800 door mids at 2ohm @ 300RMS x 1ch.

Im hoping running it at 2ohm wont add to much noise into the system. I like it as clean as possible.
 

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