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Mustang Forums
2011-2014 Mustangs
Driveline/Suspension
Best high end coilovers for track that are still streetable
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<blockquote data-quote="modernbeat" data-source="post: 14446922" data-attributes="member: 137954"><p>I don't. But the valving (the damping) is the easiest thing to change. For dual purpose cars with large monotube dampers I try to get a fairly digressive curve. It works well on both street (comfort) and track (performance) without giving too much away.</p><p></p><p>The hardware, how it fits the car, how long it lasts between service, and how easy it is to work with is really what you should be looking at. For struts the top guide is really important. It prevents deflection within the strut. Too much deflection doesn't just add more friction, it starts wearing out top seals, piston seals and guide seals. The stiffer the shaft and better the guide, the longer the hydraulic parts of the strut will last before the performance drops off and eventually requires a rebuild. Next is correct lengths. Do the parts require adapters, length spacers or special extended mounts so they fit the car? That's not good, as the builder has specified a slightly too long (may bottom out), or too short (not enough stroke) damper and has built some band-aids to get it to fit. We see this a lot with Fox, Afco and Bilstein parts. It's an easy stepping stone for guys just getting into suspension but not able to make custom parts with the right coatings and hardnesses.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="modernbeat, post: 14446922, member: 137954"] I don't. But the valving (the damping) is the easiest thing to change. For dual purpose cars with large monotube dampers I try to get a fairly digressive curve. It works well on both street (comfort) and track (performance) without giving too much away. The hardware, how it fits the car, how long it lasts between service, and how easy it is to work with is really what you should be looking at. For struts the top guide is really important. It prevents deflection within the strut. Too much deflection doesn't just add more friction, it starts wearing out top seals, piston seals and guide seals. The stiffer the shaft and better the guide, the longer the hydraulic parts of the strut will last before the performance drops off and eventually requires a rebuild. Next is correct lengths. Do the parts require adapters, length spacers or special extended mounts so they fit the car? That's not good, as the builder has specified a slightly too long (may bottom out), or too short (not enough stroke) damper and has built some band-aids to get it to fit. We see this a lot with Fox, Afco and Bilstein parts. It's an easy stepping stone for guys just getting into suspension but not able to make custom parts with the right coatings and hardnesses. [/QUOTE]
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2011-2014 Mustangs
Driveline/Suspension
Best high end coilovers for track that are still streetable
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