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2013-14 Shelby GT500
Best Brake Bleeder Kits? Motive Products vs MityVac
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<blockquote data-quote="JAJ" data-source="post: 16946588" data-attributes="member: 131874"><p>A few notes on doing bleeds with these tools - I've been using them on and off for 20 years:</p><p></p><p>1. Use a turkey baster or some other kind of picker-upper to lower the level in the master cylinder reservoir before you start. I drop mine down as far as I dare, fill it up with fresh fluid and drop it again. That means you're starting with a low level of fresh fluid in the reservoir.</p><p></p><p>Where the low fluid level benefits is at the end. In the video, his reservoir was filled to the very brim. If you start with the reservoir at a lower level, the air above the fluid compresses as the pump builds pressure, but it maintains a gap of maybe 3/4 inch at the top of the reservoir. When you release pressure at the end, fluid in the hose goes back into the Motive tank, followed by the decompressing air above the fluid. You're left with a nice tidy fill in the M/C reservoir with reasonable space above the fluid.</p><p></p><p>2. The best cleaning fluid for brake fluid spills is plain ordinary water. Nothing else. Flush with water, wipe with a rag or a paper shop towel, you're done.</p><p></p><p>3. Whacking the caliper with a mallet does exactly nothing. If there's air in the brake system when you start, a Motive bleed might not get it. The slow, gentle flow from a Motive might not dislodge bubbles, hammer or not. Nothing is as effective as a foot-pump bleed if there's air in the system. A foot pump bleed compresses the air into smaller bubbles and they get dislodged by the sudden surge of fluid when you open the bleeder. Thing is, of course, if there's no air in the calipers when you start, and if you do the job right, there won't be any air when you finish.</p><p></p><p>4. I use small bits of paper towel rolled into a point to get the fluid excess out the bleed screws. Same process as the q-tips, just more likely to have on hand.</p><p></p><p>5. Bosch ESI 6 is a great DOT 3-4-4LV-5.1 fluid. Well priced, long lasting. Boiling points are 518 degree dry and 365 degrees wet, higher than DOT 5.1. The viscosity meets DOT4LV. For performance cars, the dry boiling point is only 18 degrees short of ATE Typ 200 racing fluid.</p><p></p><p>6. Last but not least, think about getting one of these:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1806037[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I picked one up in 2019 and it's surprising how accurate it is. As I'm finishing bleeding each caliper bleeder, I close the bleed screw, detach the catch bottle hose and let the last bit of fluid in the hose drain into a little jar and check the water level with the meter. If the fluid that just came out of the bleed screw matches the new fluid from the can (which may register higher than zero, so check first) then you're done with that bleed screw.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="JAJ, post: 16946588, member: 131874"] A few notes on doing bleeds with these tools - I've been using them on and off for 20 years: 1. Use a turkey baster or some other kind of picker-upper to lower the level in the master cylinder reservoir before you start. I drop mine down as far as I dare, fill it up with fresh fluid and drop it again. That means you're starting with a low level of fresh fluid in the reservoir. Where the low fluid level benefits is at the end. In the video, his reservoir was filled to the very brim. If you start with the reservoir at a lower level, the air above the fluid compresses as the pump builds pressure, but it maintains a gap of maybe 3/4 inch at the top of the reservoir. When you release pressure at the end, fluid in the hose goes back into the Motive tank, followed by the decompressing air above the fluid. You're left with a nice tidy fill in the M/C reservoir with reasonable space above the fluid. 2. The best cleaning fluid for brake fluid spills is plain ordinary water. Nothing else. Flush with water, wipe with a rag or a paper shop towel, you're done. 3. Whacking the caliper with a mallet does exactly nothing. If there's air in the brake system when you start, a Motive bleed might not get it. The slow, gentle flow from a Motive might not dislodge bubbles, hammer or not. Nothing is as effective as a foot-pump bleed if there's air in the system. A foot pump bleed compresses the air into smaller bubbles and they get dislodged by the sudden surge of fluid when you open the bleeder. Thing is, of course, if there's no air in the calipers when you start, and if you do the job right, there won't be any air when you finish. 4. I use small bits of paper towel rolled into a point to get the fluid excess out the bleed screws. Same process as the q-tips, just more likely to have on hand. 5. Bosch ESI 6 is a great DOT 3-4-4LV-5.1 fluid. Well priced, long lasting. Boiling points are 518 degree dry and 365 degrees wet, higher than DOT 5.1. The viscosity meets DOT4LV. For performance cars, the dry boiling point is only 18 degrees short of ATE Typ 200 racing fluid. 6. Last but not least, think about getting one of these: [ATTACH type="full" alt="1692316783588.png"]1806037[/ATTACH] I picked one up in 2019 and it's surprising how accurate it is. As I'm finishing bleeding each caliper bleeder, I close the bleed screw, detach the catch bottle hose and let the last bit of fluid in the hose drain into a little jar and check the water level with the meter. If the fluid that just came out of the bleed screw matches the new fluid from the can (which may register higher than zero, so check first) then you're done with that bleed screw. [/QUOTE]
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Best Brake Bleeder Kits? Motive Products vs MityVac
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