Been a month with UPR k member on the street...

Status
Not open for further replies.

LS1PUSSOUT

Banned
Joined
Mar 14, 2006
Messages
5,765
Location
Murfreesboro,TN
Well its almost been a month since I installed the UPR k member on my car. Ive been driving it to work and back the whole time. It has MMR control arms with urethane bushings, urethane steering rack bushings and sway bar bushings, UPR adjustable tie rod ends, UPR coilovers, tokico struts, and MM CC plates in the front. installed everything pretty much around the same time.

The upr k member definately changed the toe angles alot. Tires were pointing outwards. I think this is mostly due to the location of the control arm mounting points. I got new tires and had it aligned but I adjusted the toe settings to where the tires were actually pointing straight again when it was installed. The adjustable tie rod ends were needed to do this. Its so easy to adjust them too. The whole setup is actually very quiet since I got the bugs worked out of it. If you were riding in it I doubt you would be able to tell it had coilovers on it.

On the highway it rides very smooth! It seems more stable at higher speeds which makes it alot more comfortable to drive imo. Around town going slower speeds it doesnt seem quite as smooth. The coilovers seem to react alot faster to the road surface. You can pretty much feel every crack in the road while going slow. But that means you can also feel the road surface alot better through the steering wheel. I have the 250lb springs and its actually pretty firm in the corners. There is body roll, but its a drastic reduction from stock. It takes corners alot better and I can do it at higher speeds without feeling loose. The handling is good and a big improvement over stock, but still could be better. I guess thats where maximum motorsports comes in? IDK...The rear will get loose before the front does right now anyway. Its pretty much stock rearend with H&R springs and tokico shocks. Itll hold the corners good but if you give it too much throttle like anything it will get loose in the rear and take the front along with it.

The MMR A arms and urethane bushings fit good and are very quiet. I actually had to slightly shave two of the bushings to fit the k member. The only thing I can really say about them is that they are alot lighter than stock. I dont know if theyve actually improved handling, but they look cool. The whole setup shaved lots of weight. The steering wheel feels alot easier to turn now. It didnt really increase the steering angles like the MM kit is supposed to though. After installing the k member and control arms the car was sitting a little higher in the front than it was before. But I lowered it back. I really dont notice the weight savings while driving the car, but im sure its helping anyways.

People were telling me that the UPR k member was a bad idea on the street, but ive had no issues sofar with it. And ive hit several potholes already and other bumps in the road without anything getting loose. I am using foxbody struts and shocks. They have not bottomed out at all. Ive been over some pretty big bumps and while it does feel pretty rough sometimes, the suspension seems to be taking it well. The main problem im having is the car may be a little too low in the front. Ive been scraping too many things. I have 315s in the rear and they do not rub my fenders at all and I dont have them rolled. The front tires have rubbed the fenders a little only because I was doing 80-90mph going over bumps on the interstate.

Overall I am satisfied with the setup sofar. It handles better than stock, but could be better IMO. It sticks the corners alot better but saying "it feels like its on rails" may be an overstatement. I mainly bought it so I could fit the turbo and so I could lower it. I would like to one day upgrade to maximum motorsports K member and coilovers to extract every bit of handling possible. Some rear suspension upgrades would help alot to neutralize the handling characteristics. I would like to soon add an IRS to it and possibly a 4 or 6 point cage also. Then the suspension would be "finished".
 
Last edited:

LS1PUSSOUT

Banned
Joined
Mar 14, 2006
Messages
5,765
Location
Murfreesboro,TN
Drove it through the rain yesterday and it does very well. I didnt push it hard, but it never once felt loose in the water just driving on the way home.
 

moddedmystic

Member
Established Member
Joined
May 23, 2004
Messages
552
Location
Minneapolis,MN
Did you install it yourself? I'm getting ready to do mine next weekend any tips or advice you could share would be most helpful :beer:
~Mark
 

LS1PUSSOUT

Banned
Joined
Mar 14, 2006
Messages
5,765
Location
Murfreesboro,TN
Did you install it yourself? I'm getting ready to do mine next weekend any tips or advice you could share would be most helpful :beer:
~Mark

Yes I installed everything by myself with noone helping. I installed the coilovers and CC plates a couple days before I did the Kmember and A arms. That made it alot easier. Installing the coilovers is pretty simple just make sure you use the right amount of spacers so that the springs dont contact the CC plates. To support the engine, all I did was place a block of wood on the jack and put it under the oil pan, then jacked it up a couple inches, and set a jackstand under the front of the transmission first. Then I put another jackstand under the crank pulley on the front of the engine. This worked to hold the engine without any issues. I had enough room to drop the K member and change the oil pan. Remove the spindles first, then you can drop the whole thing with the control arms still attatched. To lower the K member make sure it doesnt snag anything on the way down because even with a jack underneath it, it came down kind of hard since its pretty heavy. Assemble the new control arms and K member before you go to install it. It took a little bit of improvising but I was able to lift the new assembly into position without any help. The hardest part of it all is probably working with the steering rack. It was pretty hard to get off and put back on. I had to use a prybar to do it. I also had to use a prybar to move the k member so I could get the last bolt to line up right. After you get the main bolts threaded in to the frame for the k member, there really isnt any way to adjust the alignment of the K member. I tried moving it, but it fits so tight that it wasnt moving anywhere. Im pretty sure its lined up well anyways. It may take a little massaging to get the motor mounts sitting flush on the k member after you lower the engine down on it. I just kept moving it around till it finally dropped into the alignment holes. Its all pretty straight forward work, but it takes alot of energy to do it and it takes a long time. I was working on it pretty much all day.
 

moddedmystic

Member
Established Member
Joined
May 23, 2004
Messages
552
Location
Minneapolis,MN
Yes I installed everything by myself with noone helping. I installed the coilovers and CC plates a couple days before I did the Kmember and A arms. That made it alot easier. Installing the coilovers is pretty simple just make sure you use the right amount of spacers so that the springs dont contact the CC plates. To support the engine, all I did was place a block of wood on the jack and put it under the oil pan, then jacked it up a couple inches, and set a jackstand under the front of the transmission first. Then I put another jackstand under the crank pulley on the front of the engine. This worked to hold the engine without any issues. I had enough room to drop the K member and change the oil pan. Remove the spindles first, then you can drop the whole thing with the control arms still attatched. To lower the K member make sure it doesnt snag anything on the way down because even with a jack underneath it, it came down kind of hard since its pretty heavy. Assemble the new control arms and K member before you go to install it. It took a little bit of improvising but I was able to lift the new assembly into position without any help. The hardest part of it all is probably working with the steering rack. It was pretty hard to get off and put back on. I had to use a prybar to do it. I also had to use a prybar to move the k member so I could get the last bolt to line up right. After you get the main bolts threaded in to the frame for the k member, there really isnt any way to adjust the alignment of the K member. I tried moving it, but it fits so tight that it wasnt moving anywhere. Im pretty sure its lined up well anyways. It may take a little massaging to get the motor mounts sitting flush on the k member after you lower the engine down on it. I just kept moving it around till it finally dropped into the alignment holes. Its all pretty straight forward work, but it takes alot of energy to do it and it takes a long time. I was working on it pretty much all day.

Thanks for the reply. I've got next Friday and the following Monday off and I'm going to try and get everything installed over the weekend :rockon:
Its a shit ton of work but I think it'll be worth it. Might do headers at the same time depending on how smoothly everything goes.
Thanks again, Mark
 

04MystiCobra

Tuning L&M heart
Established Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2004
Messages
9,040
Location
Mesa, AZ
Thanks for the writeup. I've been thinking about this sort of thing for a while now. I want to drop weight more than anything. Its a huge price difference between the UPR and PSR setup. I may have to reconsider after reading your writeup. I actually need 2 K-members for my 2 Cobras so this would help save big time! Thanks for posting!:beer:
 

04sleeper

Runs On "Liquid Gold"
Super Moderator
Joined
Sep 17, 2005
Messages
12,579
Location
Dallas, TX
Thanks for the writeup. I've been thinking about this sort of thing for a while now. I want to drop weight more than anything. Its a huge price difference between the UPR and PSR setup. I may have to reconsider after reading your writeup. I actually need 2 K-members for my 2 Cobras so this would help save big time! Thanks for posting!:beer:
I wouldn't put a UPR k-member on my lawnmower!!!

Comparing a PSR k-member to the UPR is like comparing a Pro 5.0 car to a stock Pinto.

Don't skimp on something this important! Just my $.02
 

BADASS03SVT

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2003
Messages
13,026
Location
MA
I wouldn't put a UPR k-member on my lawnmower!!!

Comparing a PSR k-member to the UPR is like comparing a Pro 5.0 car to a stock Pinto.

Don't skimp on something this important! Just my $.02


yea....youve had the k on for a month....one month is not going to show how the k will perform on a street driven car. report back in a year and let us know how its going. I have about 8k miles on my AJE with no issue's. people have had plenty of success with all k's on the street. Ive read more crap about the UPR and QA1's more than anything though.

maybe their "new" design is better? who knows.
 
Last edited:

LS1PUSSOUT

Banned
Joined
Mar 14, 2006
Messages
5,765
Location
Murfreesboro,TN
yea....youve had the k on for a month....one month is not going to show how the k will perform on a street driven car. report back in a year and let us know how its going. I have about 8k miles on my AJE with no issue's. people have had plenty of success with all k's on the street. Ive read more crap about the UPR and QA1's more than anything though.

maybe their "new" design is better? who knows.

Well the UPR piece looks like pretty decent quality to me.The welding is great and its chromoly. Mine is one of the "new designs" and all they did was relocate the control arm mounting points so that the wheels didnt stick out past the fenders. I have faith that it will last a long time. I really need to go back and re-torque all the bolts now that ive put some miles on it. It may not be the best K member, but it is an upgrade over stock and does shed alot of weight. The UPR fit great so thats really not an issue. I mean what exactly is supposed to happen between now and a year? Its not like the welds are going to break on it...
 

BADASS03SVT

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2003
Messages
13,026
Location
MA
I mean what exactly is supposed to happen between now and a year? Its not like the welds are going to break on it...

so something a year old w/ 5000 miles on it is as good as something brand new w/ 500 mile son it??

1 mpnth just doesnt say much. its like when everyone bolts on a catback...or an air filter and goes out "for a quick ride" and they say it feels like it licked up power. go to the dyno...go to the track for a full review. when we put a piece on the car that suports the motor and has to last a LONG time, 1 month feedback is nice...but not really effective.

you gotta remember too that everyone drives differently. more stress on the car in corners so if you like twisties, its more abuse on the K. if you have a cage or subs, its prob much less stress as the body doesnt flex. we all appreciate the post, just saying get some miles on that puppy and report back.

the welds breaking are exactly what happens in every case...
 

98rs

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2006
Messages
1,443
Location
Baton Rouge La
I have put three UPR kmembers on diff car and thier prob the best bang for the buck. They have gotten better over the year with thier product.But if i had the money i would go with a full griggs racing setup.
 

BADASS03SVT

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2003
Messages
13,026
Location
MA
I have put three UPR kmembers on diff car and thier prob the best bang for the buck. They have gotten better over the year with thier product.But if i had the money i would go with a full griggs racing setup.

why would you go griggs over upr? its the same right?
 

KJS1820

Member
Established Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2005
Messages
319
Location
Yardley PA
I just put my UPR member, MM coilovers and a mmr oil pan yesterday and seems to be fine quality BUT time will tell :) I put 5k on a year so we shall see! Took 7 hours all said and done but 2 of it was wasted since one of the heads of the alingment rack kept needing to be reset :( I am real happy with the way it drives and it is hard to tell I even changed it out. Now I gotta put my turbo kit on this week :)
 

sunburned

I miss my torque
Established Member
Joined
May 17, 2005
Messages
13,841
Location
NoVA
I mean what exactly is supposed to happen between now and a year? Its not like the welds are going to break on it...

ORLY? I've heard of at least 2 occurances where the motor mounts broke off of the tube frame of the AJE k-member. As for thsoe a-arms, the only think keeping them triangulated and actually attached to the k-member are 4 thin pieces of sheet metal that hold the bushing tubes. It doesn't have the boxed setup of the stock or MM k-member and the a-arms aren't triangulated, which would help greatly in rigidity. My MM arms are super beefy and I wouldn't worry a bit about them holding up under any conditions. One bad pothole on the street or constant harsh driving and you could end up bending the ears that hold on the a-arms to the UPR K. Just look at the failures on some Bilstein strut ears.

Truthfully, I see absolutely no difference between the PSR setup and UPR except for maybe a bit larger diameter tubing and a few small sheet metal braces. I think the only setups I'd put on my car are the MM and Griggs. I'll pay a little more for track tested (other than a straight line for a quarter of a mile), plus I'll make up the weight difference somewhere else.

why would you go griggs over upr? its the same right?

Seriously? The Griggs setup is tried and true over thousands of miles of road course testing. You might think a DD would put more stress on the k-member with rough roads and stuff, but I really doubt it. They also have a lifetime warranty, so if you ever manage to break the k-member, they'll replace it free.
 

IronTerp

Mid-Atlantic Cobra Assoc.
Moderator
Joined
Nov 5, 2003
Messages
17,654
Location
State College, Pa
The new design UPR K member kits have been out for nearly two years now and have been by far the best selling kits for the 03/04 Cobra. This is certainly partly due to their excellent pricing, but also due to the improved quality of the new design and the consistently good reports received from those that have added these to their front end setups over this time period.

The UPR K member setups are not designed for those folks that want to do some serious corner carving, but are more for those that want to take weight off the front end (65 lbs), add adjustable coil overs to the front suspension setup, and get the decent handling benefits of these two factors. The PSR kit is indeed an excellent piece, perhaps the best all around, but is nearly twice as expensive and many feel the extra cost here is not consistent with the measureable advantages it has over the UPR kit.

The MM kit is in a totally different class as these others and is much beefier with only about half the weight reduction benefit, and is much more suited to road racing and open track setup Terminators. Probably would not be the desired choice for those looking to maximize weight transfer for drag racing.

So, the direction one goes here should be mostly dependent on the intended use of your Terminator and the budget you have to work with. I personally like to drag race and am very pleased with all aspects of the UPR kit, as are the many other folks that I talked to before making the decision.
 
Last edited:

04MystiCobra

Tuning L&M heart
Established Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2004
Messages
9,040
Location
Mesa, AZ
The PSR K is a tad on the expensive side for me. I want to lose weight but damn thats pricey. I can get an entire front and rear setup for my 93 from UPR for the price of just the front from PSR. And the PSR doesnt come with the coilovers like the UPR does!
I'd get the UPR but I'm not sure if it has been a proven street peice yet.
 

sunburned

I miss my torque
Established Member
Joined
May 17, 2005
Messages
13,841
Location
NoVA
I'd get the UPR but I'm not sure if it has been a proven street peice yet.

It pretty much has been proven to do very well on the street. The point I was making is that my car is a little more geared towards handling than just cruising around on the street or going fast in a straight line. I wouldn't get it for that reason. If you are doing a lot of basic street driving and some drag racing, this is probably a great k-member.
 

ZOSO

colorados baddest eaton
Established Member
Joined
May 17, 2004
Messages
459
Location
Co
I have been looking into the upr k member. The only uestion i have is does it work with the stock front struts?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread



Top